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Brown Paper alternative


fly boy3
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Hi all, Is brown paper a viable alternative to expensive coverings. Thinking of trying it out on a fully sheeted fus. and obechi covered foam wing about 70inches. Do not need perfection for this sports model (ic) just a practical covering. Saw some great pictures on this forum of models covered in BP, and painted, but have failed to find them again. Any thoughts and info. on this would be greatfully recieved. Thanks

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Chris Gold did an article on brown paper covering years ago. He used PVA diluted ( maybe 10 percent or so ) as adhesive. The correct type of brown paper is the somewhat thin type that is shiny one side. Paper is coated in PVA and it shrinks a little when drying - just like wallpapering.

I used tissue and wallpaper paste ( Polycell) to cover a foam wing, then paiinted with Japlac this has lasted 25 years although the model has never been flown.

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Never tried brown paper covering myself, but I do recall a chap in my club who used it very successfully some years back . Very time consuming process though. IIRC he'd also use the shiny cardboard from breakfast cereal boxes as well!

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Christmas /birthday wrapping paper used to be used a lot on Wonder Wings (Stan Yoe?) 100s Phoenix, which had cores made from blue foam.

Ordinary wall paper paste was used as the adhesive.

The result, a very strong wing in bending and torsion.

Brown wrapping paper is possibly a little bit stronger still, although probably a little heavier.

Edited By Erfolg on 11/06/2014 18:21:01

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I have used a range of papers to cover models both conventional built up and foam. In all cases I cut the paper roughly to size, drew it through a shallow water bath and allowed it to drain before sticking it to the structure with either wallpaper paste or PVA. It worked well and I can't remember any issues with warps.

A further coat of wallpaper paste after it had dried saved a great deal of paint.

Malcolm

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What a forum, so much info out there and all willing to share it. Thanks lads. One or two queries. After covering, do I need to varnish to accept paint, then varnish again to fuel proof the paint ? Cheers ps and what paint can I use. Thanks

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Hi ,

There are two methods i use one with diluted Poly C and so it becomes fuel proof and diluted pva which needs to be proofed with fuel proof paint or fuel proofer .

It is the water that shrinks the paper .

Link here shows how i used poly C on a small model .

The process is the same for larger models only this time a make a bath of the diluted solution in a cat litter tray as they are cheep to buy and about the right size . Remember to squeeze as much of the water out before you applied it and you will not have any issue with warps the large ic model you see has veneer covered foam wings while the body is of balsa construction .

Also you can see it has not warped small balsa wings .

I have also made foam wings and just covered with brown paper .

And still good and strong today .

Steve .

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Stephen - What dilution do you use with PolyC? I have got all the parts cut for a Stratos delta ( for a big outrunner, rather than a 40 i/c which I had last time - 20 or more years ago ) which I intend to stick together when I have the time and the weather is unflyable.

Last time I used Christmas wrapping paper and wallpaper paste, but if I can get away without using too much PolyC I would use Brown Paper and PolyC - with just a few squirts of fluorescent colour so I know which way up it is.

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Hi , Gurth ,

If you use Poly C on a large model make a small bath to soak the paper in and place some stiff plastic sheet into it to make a ramp .

that way you can lay the paper on the ramp and use a plastic card to squeeze the water out of the paper and back into the bath that way it will go a lot further .

You should be ok with it diluted 1:1 although you may have to paint some onto the surface you are about to cover in order for it to stick .

Do not try to do a too larger piece than you can manage as it will be damp and fragile .

Remember the paper needs to be fully soaked then squeezed so that it is damp only not dripping wet .

You will find that it will dry quick so do not dordile when applieing it the heat from you're fingers will dry it and so you will need to brush on some more to make it stick .

A little practice may be needed to get the hang of how to lay the paper down using the same plastic card ( old credit card ) and remember to use small overlaps .

On foam models i have just stuck the paper on straight out the bath and used a plastic card to squeeze out the excess back into the bath .

Steve .

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Hi ,

Another thing to note is that if you use poly C on a open structure you will have a semi flexible finish , and if you use pva you will get a ridged finish .

So Poly C is better on open structure , but if you use Poly C you will need to lightly paint the surface with neat Poly C just before you applied the damp paper or it will not stick .

 

And in this weather will be dry within the hour ready for a top coat of Poly C the more layers of Poly C you add the better the finish and more fuel proof it will be .

 

Steve ,

 

Edited By Stephen Jones on 15/06/2014 08:57:39

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