Martin Fane Posted December 20, 2014 Author Share Posted December 20, 2014 Hi All Still struggling with the wing body fairings , just want to get this done so I can do some interesting stuff in the fuselage. Here's my interpretation of the aft sections anyway, seems like every photo I look at of the full size makes them look different Interested to see what others think............ Here's the right hand side minus flap And the left hand side with the flap installed and from behind This fits are a little better than the photo's suggest, but the shape ??? well I'm not sure..... Edited By Martin Fane on 20/12/2014 19:27:44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 Made a little more progress over the holidays - got the battery box assembled and F2 / F4 cut to suit. Plenty of room for my setup. I decided to size so that the rear of the box passes slightly through F4, gives me the chance to adjust the position correctly. And here's what happens when you don't measure twice (at least) and cut / build once !! the battery box was too high to clear F3 so had to take the saw to it and position a new base to it. Worked out OK though, plenty big enough for the battery pack. Fuselage halves not yet joined, onto the elevator, rudder and tail wheel steering control runs now I think......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Nice save Martin I used the floor of the batt box to strengthen f3 and lock in the lower centre section. The plan says to glass inside the fus. The box reinforcement does away with the need for glass the ic guys will have to watch this area so that f3 is strong enough.CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 Hi Danny That's a good point re F3, my battery box bottom is resting on F3 so I guess when glued together this provides the strength you are referring to ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 I took the box back the same distance lads and let it into F3 a little (mines I.C) and I glued a 1/16 doubler inside F3 instead of glassing. You'll soon be covering Martin John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Yep thats the idea. Yours is an oddball John you have gone for a box with IC If you dont do the box idea F3 is only contacting the skin and nothing more. the wing dowels (or bolt) attaches to F3!!! Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 That's right Danny F3 looked a little lonely John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexJ Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 I will sit with you John, in the oddball corner ( IC and a box ) . I have doubled up F3, as there isn't much left after I cut out for the box. Martin, You really are making rapid progress, the rear wing fairings look good to me, they do seem different on every example. I know how much time it soaks up with very little progress. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 Moved onto rudder and elevator servo installation. Lots to think about here regarding interference in the runs, my rear wing mounting is proving a little too close for comfort with regard to the elevator push rod run. I plan to place the servos slightly offset to get the elevator as near to the centreline as possible. The rudder / tailwheel steering runs will be off centre as illustrated in Dannys build. This really is where much forethought would have proved beneficial As it is the elevator pushrod will clear the rear wing bolt by 4mm so I will have to cut the bolt to suit - I guess as long as its through the nut its in safety !! Nothing fixed in yet so if anybody has any suggestions for a better installation........ Did a little on the tailwheel, not much new here compared to Dannys build although I was not sure the suggested 16AWG wire for the leg was enough. However as I could not seem to find a suitable larger wire / tube combination I decided to go with the 16AWG and fix a length of brass tube over it - this sits in the next size up brass tube which is fixed in the hardwood block as a bush. I have yet to cut to length and fix the collet / steering arm. The tailwheel is a little oversize for true scale at 35mm. And a start to the elevator pushrod run Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 Hi Martin, I have about the same clearance on the wing bolt to elevator pushrod. I had to cut the bolt so that it just goes through the blind nut and not much more But thinking about it any more thread on the bolt is dead weight Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 I fitted piano wire through nylon snakes, no slop and no clashing, use a Z or soldered clevise at rear and adjust at servo end. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 Hi John, how did you deal with connecting to the rudder horn attached to the upper shell whilst joining the two shells? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 Thanks Danny - its nice to know someone's already resolved the problem John - I like your solution, I already have a carbon pushrod - unused from another project so will use that for the elevator with the same end fittings as you and Danny suggest. Regarding the rudder, I want to have a go with a closed loop setup so have the thread for a similar setup to Dannys if I can correctly figure out the routing !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 Posted by Danny Fenton on 05/01/2015 20:19:41: Hi John, how did you deal with connecting to the rudder horn attached to the upper shell whilst joining the two shells? Cheers Danny Not joined the shells yet Danny...i'll let you know later, it might be possible to feed the p/wire in from the rear once connected to rudder, but we'll see John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 Okay, it was the hardest thing to figure out on this build for me. I spent ages before we even started the build, working out how to connect the rudder before joining the halves. Would be good if you have found a more conventional method Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 As I'm in the process of doing a bit of retail therapy (of the aeromodelling variety) I wonder if anyone has selected a suitable spinner that they can recommend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 Moved onto the back end control runs, keen to try out the closed loop solution. Used the mick reeves threads to run in the rudder and tailwheel steering controls. Its very tight for space up the back end as well as at the servo arm end but looking like it will work out OK. And a little light relief with some covering of the tail surfaces. Edited By Martin Fane on 17/01/2015 16:35:54 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Day Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Looks great Martin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Yes it gets very tight for room back there Martin looks like you're sorted though, tail end looks tidy John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Muckley Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Martin my fairing's look pretty much like your's so they'll be good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 Thanks guys - I'm really pleased with the setup although its quite suprising how heavy the tail feels with all this back there - having said that - with the battery box and battery pack trial fitted up front it feels like it balances out. All in all I'm quite suprised how heavy the model feels at this stage. Regarding the fairings, still not sure they are 100% correct but its good to hear the general concensus is that this is the right sort of shape. I think I will try to get the tail fixed to the upper shell next - this forum is giving great guidance on the build sequence, not too sure I'd be so far advanced without the help and knowlege gained from it so thanks to all - especially Danny. Edited By Martin Fane on 17/01/2015 20:06:17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Martin, not to knock what you have done its great but that is a bit sharp an angle where you bring the cables come together. Can you bring it forward another bulkhead?CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 Hi Danny Do you mean to make the left hand rudder thread span the next former before running in common with the right hand thread ? Or do you mean to change both the rudder and tailwheel left threads ? That would half the angle I think ? Nothing is fixed yet so the changes will be no problem to make. Edited By Martin Fane on 17/01/2015 21:25:53 Edited By Martin Fane on 17/01/2015 21:28:00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Its all about friction Martyn, the lesser the angle the better. Yep take it over as many bulkheads as you can, at least two Looks great though well done CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 Adjusted the routing of the rudder and tail wheel steering threads - the left hand lines are now redirected to the right hand side of the fuselage shell across 2 bulkheads making the change of direction much less of an angle. A check of the friction when pulling the threads at the servo ends seems OK. I think I'm now in a position to join the upper and lower shells although I find myself checking and rechecking as there's no going back once that join is made !! I joined the stabilizer to the upper shell after shaping the seats. I must admit the location was determined using the mark one eye ball - lining the tail up with the wing. Then I installed the vertical stabilizer - the laser level was great in getting this right. No going back now - I hope The work above was obviously done when her indoors was out !! Its starting to look like a Chipmunk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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