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This Chip-monk will be praying for help


Nigel Day
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Posted by Nigel Day on 12/09/2014 17:58:10:

By the way John, you've got a fair bit of cutting out to do. When I got the woodpack I thought that I'd been given the full kit for a minute! There's a LOT of parts provided in the woodpack. smiley

Yes I had a look at a wood pack Nigel and nearly bought one, but it'll give me something to do now nights are drawing in. And i'm in no hurry

John

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  • 3 weeks later...

I can understand that John. I'm early in my modelling days, and without a lot of cash, but if I had t cut out ALL of the bits for a build, I doubt I'd build at all. So I save my pennies and make sure that my budget stretches to the woodpack and similar.

I also don't have all the equipment and very few of the skills to be able to make/cut all materials - like metal, fibreglass board lithoplate. I will be acquiring them as I go but it'll be a slow process.

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Hi John, and you are very sensible to approach it like that. I have mentioned before that I use a Jewellers saw a lot, this can be used to cut glass board, metal, and ply with the right blade.

The saw is about a tenner and the blades come in packs of a dozen or more for a small outlay. It is also great for cutting out cowls and canopies acurately.

I don't envy you cutting the hinge sets by hand, there are something like 35 items. However you dont have to hinge like that, you can use small Robart hinges set in the end of tubes, you just need to use your imagination wink 2

aileron hinge extension.jpg

Cheers

Danny

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A jewellers saw is also called a piercing saw. Some are as Danny's photo, some are not adjustable for length so they only take full length ( not broken bits! ) blades. All take standard hand fretsaw blades. ( not the pin ended type used in power fretsaws) A normal hand fretsaw would do the same job ( and more) but is a bit more clumsy, so breaks blades more often.

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Not too much of an investment - Axminster sell a piercing saw for £3.24 . Another adjustable for £4.74. I would choose the fixed type as it has less weight up top. Buy good quality blades in a variety of TPI.

Note that Axminster offer a Victor brand 'jewellers saw' which is what we all call a razor saw. You want what Axminster call a piercing saw.

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.

 

I was referring to pin ended fretsaw blades which are used in many power fretsaws . Coping saw blades are coarser than the finer fretsaw blades and although coping saws will cut out all we want in balsa or ply they would not cut paxolin or fibreglass board. A piercing/ jewellers saw would produce a finer cut with a suitable blade, while a coping saw or a really large throat piercing saw will allow cuts further into the middle of a board - not normally needed for model aircraft. Coping saw would do at a pinch if you have one but if buying get a piercing/ jewellers saw.

To get it straight - piercing saws are exactly  the same as jewellers saws ( with the exception I noted )  Coping saws are quite different ( they swivel the blade).   Coping saw blades are different in in length to fretsaws are pin ended and are coarser with  limited range of TPI.

Note that fretsaws need the teeth pointing to the handle.  Coping saws can point either way although they work much better with the teeth pointing to handle -not a lot of people know that!  

 

Edited By kc on 30/09/2014 12:20:11

Edited By kc on 30/09/2014 12:43:06

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144 for a fiver sounds too cheap! Cheap ones are often brittle and break instantly in novices hands. .I think that only the highest quality blades should be used. Reason for using high quality is they are more flexible and dont snap when a little side pressure is used. They are bimetal - very hard teeth on a flexible steel backing. Buy only English ( Eclipse/ Irwin ) Swiss, Swedish in my view. A dozen Swiss 40TPi and a dozen 23TPi would cost a fiver or so from Axminster and probably last longer than 144 cheap ones.  ( dont ask me how I know this!)

Same applies to full size hacksaw blades.

Edited By kc on 30/09/2014 23:32:07

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All the bits from the woodpack have been cut out. I've kept the remnants for now, partly on Danny & Chris's advice and partly because I can build a second plane from them. Very handily, there's some 1/32" birch ply so I might just use a little of that for the fin/rudder shrouding.

I'm off to my local copy shop to see if they can do faithful copies and whether they can reverse print too. This would be useful for the wings. Then I'll stop by our local Aladdin's cave of an ironmonger and see if they've got any small bolts and nuts (1-2mm, 10 BA etc, 16 BA etc) - you never know.

Boy am I glad I've not started yet!

What with Danny's trials with the fin, Terry's with the tailplane spar, questions about the tail/fin ribs and spars from the wood pack, I'm glad I've given many of you a head start! I've also learnt that I need a more beefy soldering iron (120w) and silver solder. Doubtless there will be more to buy and oodles more to learn as we go. That's what it's all about. smiley

Thanks in advance to the pioneers.

Edited By Nigel Day on 03/10/2014 09:01:46

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