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The Atom Special


Richard Harris
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Steve,

Very well finished as always matethumbs up, if it flies as well as it looks there will be no issues at all. It does look a little sleeker than mine, must be your chosen colours?

Still covering when I can, to much work and not enough play at the momentsad. I will post some pictures in the next few days then add a little on the fitting of the radio gear.

Rich

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John,

The rotor disc is free wheeling, if you take a look at the flying shots you will notice that they are in fact tipped rearwards about 5 degrees. When the model moves forward air passes up through them, because of the blade design and the way they are set they begin to rotate Leading edge first creating lift as they do so.

When at full RPM the rotor disc acts like a wing, we can move the disc backwards and forwards / left and right giving us total control. This makes the autogyro quite unique as it will not stall and gives us the ability to fly fast/ slow and even backwards. Loops, rolls, stall turns are all within the limits of the autogyro as long as forward movement is maintained keeping the air passing through those wings.

But, the down side is they can't fly upside down! (don't ask me how I know that! embarrassed)

 

 

Rich

Edited By Richard Harris on 15/09/2014 13:32:11

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Rich, will an autogyro, and specifically the Atom, auto-rotate? This is something I enjoyed playing with on the Phoenix 4 simulator.

(Have I used the right word - auto-rotate? On Phoenix I would get up high and throttle right back then allow the autogyro to come down nose first, gliding like a brick. At the last minute I would lift the nose and the blades would start spinning quickly again and the autogyro could then make a soft landing, all with the throttle backed right off.)

I intend to build the Atom as my first go at an autogyro. How do you think it will cope with wind?

Regards, Ian

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Ian,

Technically an autogyros lift is created by auto rotation, hence it's name. What I think you are trying to ask is how does an autogyro cope if the engine stops?

With the engine stopped we loose our propulsion forwards, because the autogyro is set up with a good forward CG position it will naturally descend forwards (most of the time). This keeps the air flowing up through the blades maintaining their rotation. By pushing the rotor disc forwards slightly this increases the decent and speed up the blades, a flair can be done at the last moment before touch down for a nice soft landing.

Now, this sounds easy in practice but get the timing wrong with the flair and pull back to early it can go pear shaped pretty quickly. As you can probably guess you only get one chance at this type of landing, but when done right it is quite fulfilling, its just practice.Some where I have a video of me doing this.

I have now finished covering No 2 ATOM, just need to fit the electrics, make blades and set it up, more to follow....

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img_4695.jpg

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Rich

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I have received my copy of the RCM&E today and so have the Atom plan .

So i will make a start on it soon , a quick read through and you have omitted information about making the blades but do mention that you will post information on here about making the blades if anyone requests it .

Guess what ,

Err could you tell us how to make said blades deer Sir wink.

Cheers Steve.

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A quick look over the build and i may try simply connect those rudders directly up to the servo arm , ie left rudder onto the left side of the servo arm and the right onto the right .

 

Steve

Any way that will have to wait as i am off to eat some birthday cake and drink some beer responsibly , Cheers .

Edited By Stephen Jones on 15/09/2014 20:29:51

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Steve,

Happy Birthday cake, I need to make a set of blades for Atom No2 so will post a few piccies as I go along. I can do a drawing too of the aerofoil and any relevant dimensions,then PDF it and pass it on the David Ashby. I will need to get some hardwood for the leading edges so that may take me a few days.

Johan,

The motor in question is the Emax BL 2220/09 850kv swinging an 11 x 5.5" prop with the original 30 amp ESC on a 3s 1550Mah Lipo. This motor packs more of a punch and better suits my flying style, the original motor is fine for pottering about. Its just nice to have that extra bit if needed wink 2 At full chat it is pulling between 190 - 200 watts off a fully charged batteryteeth 2

Rich

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I ordered a head and the pre-cut GRP parts from Coolwind on Sunday. Delivered this morning....

Been in the loft to check the wood stocks, might have to get some spruce for the blades and mast...

Got a spare AR500, 40A ESC and 3s Lipo on hand, so just need a motor and some servos.

Then get to WH Smiths on Friday to get the mag with the plan in.yes

Looking forward to this, promises to be an adventure!

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How do you know when you are getting old question.

When you need glasses to see where the cut line is . But wow reading glasses really do make everything much clearer don't they .

Spent the evening tracing out parts from the plan and although the plan is spread over four a4 pages i managed to get all the parts onto just three sheets of A4 .

Then i wished i had traced the 2 off parts twice as that would of saved me time cutting the parts out then having to peel the paper off only to re stick it onto a 2nd piece of wood to make the second part .

Well all the parts are cut out now and my eyes are aching so it will have to wait until tomorrow now before i can start sticking bits together .

He He i also know why Richard called it the Atom now.

Steve

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Rich is the master at Blades and has posted several videos and threads on 'How to'....

Here are some pic and the process i use for mine...

The blade blanks are made from the selected hardwood or spruce leading edge and 6mm balsa. For this i used 6mm sq and 46mm balsa to give a 52mm wide blade. Slightly wider than the AJ as suggested. As you see I tape them on Grease proof and use 30 min expoxy to join

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Leaving overnight to set straight

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Then the fun bit with a razor plane carefully rough profile

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Keeping the leading edge sharp and the trailing not too thin to allow for sanding

sam_2293.jpg

Rear cut outs added and before the root is cut at an angle the blade cord balance is found (CoG) using pins and some scap triangluar.

A line is marked on the blade 1mm behind the balance point to give slightly forward CoG

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Reinforcement plates are cut from 0.8mm glass fibre sheet

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And stuck in place

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Another view of the sanded profile before reinforcements added

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Next a 4mm 0.4mm strip isadded to the blade TRAILING edge to give slight negative shim for spin up

sam_2301.jpg

Once this is done the 3mm mounting holes are drilled and the balancing begins.

Will follow up with more pics soon

Steve

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Here are some build pictures of Mine.

atomparts.jpg

Boy my eye sight is not as good as it used to be those slots in the fins are a little on the wide side i shall have to add a small piece of wood to bridge the gap .embarrassed

atomstage1.jpg

I have glued some parts together but progress has stopped as i need to use the sander outside .

And that will have to wait until tomorrow .

Needless to say most off the wood has come from my scrap pile as i don't throw anything away that might be of use later and so far i have only bought the head and GF parts.

Looks like this can also be made from Depron . I may have ago at making a lite version later.

Steve

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Posted by sebrien andre on 18/09/2014 04:54:10:

Hi All

I would like to build it !

Do you know where I can get a copy of the 2014 special issue to be "sent to France" ?

Or could someone here make it for me ?

Thanks for answer

Andre

Andre,

The RCM&E Special edition will be up for sale on the 19th, I think you can order it on line if its not available in France. If you get stuck I can pick up a copy when I go and get mine tomorrow and post it? at cost of course.

Steve Jones2 (now this is going to get complicated with 2 of you!),

Thanks for posting the blade picks as it will save me some time, working too many hours of late and not enough time to play.

Steve Jones (the other one wink 2),

Crumbs, you don't hang around! looking forward to seeing your progress and would be interested in how a depron version goes, sure to be a floater, maybe indoor potential?

Keep up the good work boysthumbs up

Rich

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