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Ballerina


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A little while ago someone commented that they would like a low wing version of Harlequin. As I really like that type of model I decided to build one. Actually it turned into a much prettier model as you will see later.

Orginanlly I had planned to call it Columbine but someone got confised with the Columbine massacre so the name was changed.

In passing, I looked on the Internet for images of "Columbine" and instead of getting the the images of Harlequin and Columbine I got pages of all the crime scene pictures of dead teenagers and dead killers and maps of the school where all the bodies lay. Just how sick can you get!!!.

The model is 54"span, and has 560 sq, in area and weighs 4lbs 5 ounces giving a wing loading of 17.5 ounces per sq ft. Should be nice!!

First picture shows the basic fuselage construction and the next two show the triangular stock in the corners.

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ballerina const 004.jpg.ballerina const 005.jpg

More to follwo very soon

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Now for a couple more shots.

ballerina const 007.jpg

Starting the wing construction.Pin down leading edge sheet and trailing edge capstrips. also aileron spar and leading edge capstrips. Add bottom spar. Next fit the aileron spar using a couple of ribs for final location. You can also add the aileron leading edge.

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Fitting the ribs..

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The undercarriage mounting is glued to the ribs, it will have to be supported as the lower sheet is still flat on the board at this stage. Note laminated ribs, triangular stock and the hardwood block for the U/C upright.

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THis shows an uncovered aileron with the various blocks for hinges and the ply plate for the horn mounting.

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The lower leading edge sheet has been raised and glued to the ribs, The webs have been fitted. The dihedral brace installed. And the top sheet added. also all the top capstrips to the aileron leading edge and spar. Note the use of clamps and map pins to hold the top sheet down while the glue dries.

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ON with the build.

ballerina const 015.jpg

Now we build the right wing in the same way. Here the leading edge has been ditted and the lower LE sheet is raised up and glued to the wing.

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With all the sheet on the left wing complete it can be lifter off the board and joined to the right wing. The right wing can then have all the top sheet added and then the complete wing can be lifted from the boards. By building it this way no warps can creep in.

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The tips a re built on now.

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And here is rthe complete wing with just the cap strips to be added and some trimming of the centre section sheet.

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That's looking like a very nice model. Much nicer name too - it was probably me that commented on Columbine!

Different ailerons to your normal style of strip ailerons, any special reason?

Can we expect an RCME plan soon?

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Back to the fuselage.

ballerina const 016.jpg

The fuselage formers are added and the snake outers are fitted.

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Another view of the fuselage showing the tailplane platform.

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The underside view.

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The stringers added to the top deck. Thesre are 1/8" sq spruce.

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Stage one of the cowl. This way you get a perfect aligntment of the nose ring and perfect spacing.

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Parts of the cowling laid out ready to glue in place.

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The cowling blocks glued in place.. They can be a=carved to shape after completetion.

NOTE the cowling drawing is a guide. you can acrve your own shape to your taste. I had a complaint that my model's cowl did not match the plan..

Well, I will finish off this tomorrow.

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pm 11 (15).jpgPosted by kc on 15/06/2015 19:00:28:

That's looking like a very nice model. Much nicer name too - it was probably me that commented on Columbine!

Different ailerons to your normal style of strip ailerons, any special reason?

Can we expect an RCME plan soon?

Yes, it looks very nice. I hope to add pictures of the finished model in a day or two.

RCM&E has my Peyret Mauboussin Type 11 on file. This one will be sent in as soon as I get the flying shots and finish the article, it is up to them then.

I like inset ailerons. After all, the inboard part of strip ailerons don't really do much work.

Another change is the wing mounted undercarriage. just to do something a little different.

Edited By Peter Miller on 15/06/2015 19:13:16

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Right, A few more detail shots.

ballerina const 033.jpg

This is how I mount my servo rails. Make sure that they stay in place after a heavy landing. Ever found that your servos are floating round loose?

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This is my radio installation. reasonably neat. The satellite Rx goes behind the servos on the former/

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The throttle arm is outside the fuselage. This set up works well thought.

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Leg fairings from Back binders from your local office supply shop. Just solder a piece of wire onto the leg to stop the fairing from rotating and pop it on. Quick, cheap and very easy.

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  • 2 months later...

Ballerina flies like a Harlequin. It does everything that Harlequin can do only it looks prettier.

The plans are with RCM&E but they have another of my designs ot use first.

Also, due go our lousy summer I really need some better flying shots. Hope to get these in September.

Maybe we will get clear blue skies and gentle breezes soon.

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That looks a super job with the Miss Lizzie style finish, I want one! Wish the plan was available now. I guess it is a 40FS up front.

I've got plenty of wood in stock, 70 odd mixed sheets and 40 odd mixed strip including the 1/8 square spruce and plenty of polyester covering so I'm ready!

As it flies like Harlequin it will be excellent. I just wish I'd used solarfilm polyester to cover my Harlequin, I used ordinary solarfilm and have to tighten it up every time the sun comes out as it sags. I've thrown any remaining ordinary solarfilm away now so I'm not tempted to use it ever again.

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Hi Peter,

I and many other eagerly await the plan. With regard to your comment "I like scalloped finishes because they look hard but are really quite easy to do..." how do you go about marking out and cutting the polyester film. Are there any tips or tricks in doing this accurately? I apologize if this topic has been covered before.

Kind regards

Kevin

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Basically they are easy. You take an Olfa circle cutter, set it at a little larger than the scallops so you don't get a full semi circle. Tape your film down and stick some masking tape along it. Mark the tape at the width of the scallops and just cut them. Try it on an old newspaper first to get the idea.

Doing the simple scallops is then quick and easy. Stick them down with an iron set at a low temperature, just enough to make sure that they are stuck down firmly.

I have to say that this morning I was working on a scale model which has a lot of scallops on the wing and tail. These were easy. The snag was that they also featured a fairly wide (3/16" pin stripe just behind the scallops.

I have to admit that I made such a dogs dinner out them that in the end, after using up a complete roll of Solartrim, I gave up!! The model will not have pinstripes behind the scallops!!sad

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Thanks Peter,

I have to admit you make it sound easy... I have just ordered a better quality cutter, one with a small rotating blade rather than a fixed blade. Bought a few spare blades as well as I believe that was part of the problem. Hopefully will have more success, although I can see some benefits of the fixed blade in terms of accuracy. Still have the Jezebel to finish (80% done) before I even start thinking about a Ballerina...

Cheers.

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