Colin Leighfield Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 That looks beautiful Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Gardiner Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 That looks great Al - I hope mine turns out as good. Can I ask what motors and batteries you are using? Geoff... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Beautiful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Knights Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Motors are those recommended by T/N and 4max also the speed controllers too along with the props. Batteries are turnigy nanotec 4000 4s. It's a good set up with a reasonable amount of power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 Hi Martin I'm sure I read somewhere on the forum that the cg was set with the gear down but can't find the reference anywhere ,is this the case ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 Brian Taylor usually indicates the C of G with the gear down, not sure about Tony? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 Thanks Danny , what's your opinion because I'm pretty sure with the weight of the gear up it will need a fair bit of lead ,I'm not sure which would handle the best Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted September 18, 2017 Author Share Posted September 18, 2017 Can`t now remember what I did here but would have thought that to be safe check it with the gear up. No nose over problems on take off with mine if that was how I set it. If the tail end has been built light then those heavy batteries should easily take care of the cg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 Ok thank you Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan Bennett Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 C of g check with gear up has got to be the right answer as a starting point because lowering the gear will then move the c of g slightly forward, which is safer than moving it rearwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted January 9, 2018 Author Share Posted January 9, 2018 Decided at last to bite the bullet and have a go at repairing this mess. That sellotape should come in handy. Anybody good at jigsaw puzzles? 2 or 3 hours got me this far. Dare not look at the nacelles yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josip Vrandecic -Mes Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 Hi Martin , you've done a very pedantic and patient job... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 Good grief Martin that is going to be a labour of love Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted January 14, 2018 Author Share Posted January 14, 2018 If you thought that was difficult, look at this lot. Problem is, are the motor crutches out of alignment or is it just the super structure? Will glass inside where I can still get at then apply polyester based filler, finally sanding down and re glassing the outside. Just chopping off the broken bits and building on new parts was not really an option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 I admire your fortitude Martin upwards and onwards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted February 4, 2018 Author Share Posted February 4, 2018 Back together bar the nose moulding which is giving me big problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Gardiner Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 Wow...... Hats off to you Martin, it looks as good as new. Do you think it will have put on any weight? Geoff... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 Looks great Martin what is the issue with the nosecone?CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted February 4, 2018 Author Share Posted February 4, 2018 Geoff, other than the weight of the glue and a few bits of ply here and there, I doubt that it will be very much. Danny, the original bomber nose was from a BT moulding set. The new canopy is also from that set and I did not realise that the bomber and fighter/bomber versions were different but it will have to do. I have pulled a few acetate/PETG parts before (five on my Lanc) but this one has defeated me so far. I made a thick GRP copy from the TN ABS nose to pull around but despite re designing my moulding box to incorporate radiused corners to prevent creases, I get so far and end up with a hole in it. This is using a vacuum and a heat gun so the next attempt will be to go back to heating the acetate under the grill. Only got enough left for three more tries. Anyone out there got a BT nose they don`t want? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 Brilliant stuff Martin ,sorry no spare nose cone . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 Hi Martin you cannot have mine but i am happy to make a plug and try and pull one for you? I have an untouched set, this is for the 81 inch?CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted February 4, 2018 Author Share Posted February 4, 2018 Thanks Danny. I shall have another try, maybe tomorrow. As I said, I made a GRP plug from the ABS mould. It is slightly oversize so quite a bit could be cut from the acetate. It is not perfect, but is thick enough to withstand the heat. I could carve a balsa one to use if this still refuses to work. Will let you know asap and may well need to take up your kind offer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 Its no trouble Martin i have found a great material a bit like plaster of paris that will not stick to the original. Just fill Brians original, pop out the rock hard plug and you can vacform of it. I have done a few for friends that didnt want to use the originals just in case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted February 5, 2018 Author Share Posted February 5, 2018 The original ABS I have is the TN one which is of course correct for the model other than that I shall need to cut out the bomb aimer`s panel and replace with a flat piece once the vacform is done ( Tony`s plan shows the fighter version). The first mould I ever tried was for a 1:4 Rutan Cozy. I used plaster of Paris but had lots of problems with it cracking in the heat. Anyway, if I have no luck I shall send you the mould(s). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 Built up plugs from layered up timber, can work well, with fine air holes drilled right through to help the form Beeswax on timber is the accepted non stick release agent s it softens with the heat Plaster does work well as is usually smooth enough too, but is cold to start with Blow moulding can be done too, into a mould Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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