Chris Barlow Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 Looks a nice & interesting build Martin. Still following every post but not ready to start mine yet. Once the Tiggie is off the bench I will start a big cutting session for a few builds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan Bennett Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 I'm following it too, but won't be able to start until I've finished my SE5A sometime after New Year. I'm expecting the bits to arrive from TN any day now though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 I'm following every post with interest too it will be the new year before I make a start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Subscribed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted December 3, 2015 Author Share Posted December 3, 2015 Well that`s much of the easy bits done so the fun really starts now with the nacelles. I studied the build photos for quite some time before committing the bits to glue, particularly N4 as to which way round it goes. The long side is of course towards the wing tip. I propped up NA2 with 1/2" wood to clear the bench then fitted N3 followed by N2. I then added NA1, checking carefully for squareness and finally N4. The build instructions seem a bit out of sequence at this point because it is obvious that the retract mount and reinforcement pieces must be fitted at this stage. I added 3/8 sq. spruce to N2 to stop the motor from flying off. Initially the parts were tacked in place with thin CA then the joints run over with thicker stuff. Much better than trying to hold everything in place while epoxy sets, and being liteply CA takes well to it. Don`t forget to fit the motor mount captive nuts before starting assembly. The retract plate needed narrowing a little and the captive nuts adding before fitting. I trial assembly was then done. The nacelles were offered to the wings and after a bit of chamfering to clear the excess spar glue fitted well. I have not actually glued them in place as yet. I am going to use Perkins spinners but had not realised that all four nose screws cannot be fitted when they are cut for a three bladed prop. Should be OK though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted December 3, 2015 Author Share Posted December 3, 2015 Glad to have you with us Andrew. Hope that I do not lead you on the wrong track. Got the nacelle sides NA3&4 on now. I soaked them in soapy water after tacking to N2-4 and left them for an hour or so before glueing the rest after a bit of heat gun treatment. N1 will not be fitted until the motor has been reinstalled in order to align the spinner. The rear former angles were set with a card template under W3. Looks like I do not need to make glass cowls after all since the motors can be accessed from the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 Just got a bottle of ammonia Danny. I showed it to a piece of balsa and it bent immediately. About to attempt the nacelle sheeting using it and now wish that I had tried this stuff before. My god it stinks though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 That's now on the shopping list then! Along with nose plugs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Aye it pongs allright, works though CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 Will try it on the nacelle sheeting which is next. Found one or two problems . The top wing sheeting cut out for these seems to be incorrect since it leaves nothing to glue N9 to. Better to cut as shown on the build pics in my veiw. I had to add some support pieces here. I have not as yet fitted the wing LE`s and there will be a gap now between the inner edges and NA2 which I shall have to sort out. The Perkins spinners have a slighty smaller diameter (3.5" than those shown on the plan so if you use these you will need to reduce the dia. of N1 slightly. I just do not trust myself to make up ABS spinners for motors as powerful as these. I fitted Velcro for the ESC`s before adding the nacelle longerons. The wiring to the motors from these may need extending a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan Bennett Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 My plan and parts haven't arrived yet, so I don't know what TN recommends for ESC placement. But bear in mind that it's safe to extend motor-to-ESC wiring as far as you want, but if you extend battery-to-ESC wires you need to install extra capacitors between the + and - wires to avoid long term damage to the ESC. There's a long article about the issue here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted December 6, 2015 Author Share Posted December 6, 2015 Thanks Allan, I have had a quick look at that. The nacelle fronts have now been sheeted. This has taken all weekend and was by far the most difficult job to date, ammonia or not. I ended up part sheeting, part planking these, which have been roughly sanded with the spinner backplates in place. Not sure about those projecting pieces at the front of the doors but I expect this part to become clearer when I come to make them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted December 8, 2015 Author Share Posted December 8, 2015 Been doing the rear nacelle sheeting. This was entertaining but I did not find it too much fun at the time. In the end I cheated and laminated two layers of 1/16 for each piece. The protruding bits at the front were tamed with ammonia and were actually quite easy to pull together. Be warned that if you think cyano fumes are bad enough then although this stuff curls balsa it will also curl your hair, ears, eyes, nose and probably any other part of your anatomy. Here are some pics of these bits roughly sanded. Quite pleased with the results so far. Even though I cut the main parts myself I feel that much of the rest requires the use of a scroll saw so if you do not have one then put it at the top of your Christmas list. Pretty cheap from Axminster Tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 Lovely work though Martin well worth the nasal scouring You wont catch cold for a month Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 Looks like fun! When I built the Ellipse I also laminated 2 pieces of balsa for the wing root leading edge to get the required curve! How bad is the ammonia soaked balsa after it has dried? Wouldn't want it stinking out the shed for weeks afterwards or having a model that forever smells like the cat pee'd on it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted December 8, 2015 Author Share Posted December 8, 2015 Chris, The stench only lasts for a minute or so. I have found that if I try to glue the wood whilst still soaking wet with it does not work but a few seconds with a heat gun sorts this out even if it is still a little damp. So much to learn about this wonderful hobby and I thought that I knew it all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 Hi Martin, I tape it into position, and let it dry, as you say a hair dryer helps. Once dry you can lift the wood off and the curve will remain. Then you can just zap it down with very little force required at all. Try it Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted December 8, 2015 Author Share Posted December 8, 2015 Thanks Danny. Tape was not possible with some of those bits but I did pin the nacelle front pieces in place as they dried. Worked. U/C doors next I think. Probably about 1/4 built now depending on how much detail I decide to add. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted December 10, 2015 Author Share Posted December 10, 2015 I have encountered a major problem. The wheels do not fit. Despite the fact that my u/c legs are at least no longer from the pivot point to the outer edge of the wheels I have had to cut some material from the rear of the retract bay. The worst bit is that the doors cannot close over the wheels despite the fact that they touch the upper wing sheeting. All measurements have been checked in triplicate so what do I do? I have decided to try to make GF doors using one pair to make a mould. Making these the tradIitional way would be very time consuming so I dug out my old Heath Robinson vac form thingy and added some balsa to the edges of a set of doors to attempt to form an acetate mould for some super thin ones. If this works I shall probably have to make these again for the other side. Currently coating the acetate with release wax in preparation for the gel coat. The best way round this problem would be to obtain some 4.5" wheels but these are scarse. The wheels I have (125mm) were for the 1/8 scale BT version so maybe this size is too large for this anyway. Anyone else got this far who could provide some advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 I havent seen the wheels you are using Martin, but if you go for the foam type you can spin the wheels in a lathe or drill and sand them down to whatever size you need?Just a thought I narrowed the foam tyres for my TN Spit wouldnt fit in the wing otherwiseCheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted December 10, 2015 Author Share Posted December 10, 2015 Thanks Danny. The `test fly` wheels are very light foam with a square section and the ones I eventually intend to use are rounded but heavier. Neither fit. Thought about reducing them and have been told that by freezing first they can be turned down more easily. My point is that these should have fitted anyway. If the GF does not work for any reason I shall try that. Had the same problem with my TN Spit but got them in somehow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted December 11, 2015 Author Share Posted December 11, 2015 I do not expect the square section test wheels to fit as they are, even with GF doors but have ordered more 1/2" alloy to modify the yoke for the rounded ones. Its just that the former are very light and would help with the cg. If I still have a problem I shall prop up the rear of the nacelle sides with tapered balsa and re-profile the back end to match. Couple of days to wait due to GF setting time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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