Peter Miller Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Are you actually gluing on the bottom of the tank bay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Elen Posted November 2, 2017 Author Share Posted November 2, 2017 Hi Peter, Yes, but there is a big hole in F2 that the tank and the battery will fit through if needed later. It will be a bit of a rave to get the battery out though. The tank will have to come out along with the throttle pushrod. The NiMH receiver battery will be charged in situ. I only ever charge batteries under supervision, usually whilst I'm building. Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Ah! Good. I couldn't see the hole in F-2 One thing that I have learned over the years in full size and models. If you can't get at it easily you will need to. I can tell stories, for example. A simple job. Undoing one split pin and nut and bolt plus three stiff nuts, removing two small trim jacks and replacing them.Simple right? If you can do it in eight hours you are doing well.. The Gloster rep said "Oh well, you take out those cables and that part and those and it is easy. So he was asked "How long does that take. Oh it takes a couple of days!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Elen Posted November 4, 2017 Author Share Posted November 4, 2017 Hi Peter, In my working life, I have to design and install fibre optic networks. A lot of time is spent making sure that any maintainance work in the future is easily accessible. It's the law of sod! A little more done: Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 4, 2017 Share Posted November 4, 2017 A disgustingly tidy bench Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Elen Posted November 5, 2017 Author Share Posted November 5, 2017 That's pretty untidy for me Peter. It's normally much tidier than that😁 Bit more done, along with the realisation I've not got enough of the blue.... I'm a Rudder short. Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted November 5, 2017 Share Posted November 5, 2017 I must say I agree with your answer to Peter, Mark. This is looking like a very "untidy" work bench this time... On the other hand, don't tell us now that you didn't calculate for enough translucent blue covering !!! ... You must have some left that you really 'forgot' about... somewhere... please try to remember. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 6, 2017 Share Posted November 6, 2017 My bench is tidy at the moment...I can actually see some of the surface. Funny how people often find that they have not got quite enough to finish a colour scheme. I have just provided a friend with enough to cover his elevators. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Elen Posted November 6, 2017 Author Share Posted November 6, 2017 Hi Gents, Disaster averted. I managed to call in at my LHS (Gliders at Newark) today and purchased another metre of the same transparent Oracover 👍 Tonight I've been covering and hinging, I needed to hinge up the elevators so that I could fit the small filler piece behind the elevator joiner. I've also been filling in the gaps where I cut the covering around the tail plane, as these will stand out under the blue. Used Vaseline on the hinge pins, heated to make it flow into the pin, then with a fine nozzle, filled the slots with superphatic. They are well stuck. The only problem with this method, is that because the hinges are a tight fit in the slots, the superphatic behaves like cyano and wants to 'grab' the hinges as they go in. Got there in the end though and they will be pinned with cocktail sticks stuck in with more superphatic. Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveyP Posted November 7, 2017 Share Posted November 7, 2017 Neat covering, puts mine to shame. Looking at the pics. do you put strips of covering around the edges first then overlay with the main covering ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 7, 2017 Share Posted November 7, 2017 That is great covering. I cover the tail parts before gluing them on as it is easier and I still never get it anything like as good as that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Elen Posted November 7, 2017 Author Share Posted November 7, 2017 Hi Gents, Many thanks for your kind comments. Davey, the edges are part of the main covering. I will post up a photo later of my method. Basically it involves making sure the piece has a straight edge, then, using a scrap piece of 1/4" square hardwood, positioning the covering to leave the edge as you can see, then with a low heat, tacking the covering into position. After that, whack the temperature up and shrink around the curves. Cut off the excess with a sharp scalpel, stick down all of the edges, then with a hot iron, go over it all to finish. I will say that I find, this Oracover is much easier to deal with than Solarfilm. Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Elen Posted November 7, 2017 Author Share Posted November 7, 2017 Here are the photos to go with the description above: These first 3 with the iron on low, just tacking in place Once the corner is firmly tacked, iron on hot and shrink it down, no pressure put on the corners, it just needs to shrink and not stick. Then scalpel off the waste And it then looks like this With the iron still on hot, go over the edges again with no pressure, to shrink out all of the creases, once they're gone, they can be stuck down. Then go over the whole surface with the iron on hot, again this needs little pressure, we want it to shrink out the wrinkles, not stick them down. That's it. Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveyP Posted November 7, 2017 Share Posted November 7, 2017 Thanks Mark, that's really useful, I think my main mistake has been sticking the wrinkles down, rather than shrinking the covering then sticking. I've been using Solarspan, not sure if that is an easy or difficult covering to use, I've only covered one model so far with heatshrink...... I shall have a practise with some offcuts using your technique Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Elen Posted November 7, 2017 Author Share Posted November 7, 2017 Hi Davey, I'm not sure about Solarapan, as I've not used it. This is Oracover, I'm pretty impressed with it, it will take a lot of heat without burning a hole. With wrinkles, once you stick a wrinkle down, they are nigh on impossible to get out. I've got a lot of tiny ones on the really tight curves on that tail, but from a foot away you can't see them. Definitely worth practicing as it is a bit of an art. Also have a play with your iron temperature. Once you get the knack, it isn't that hard, it's just time consuming. Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 7, 2017 Share Posted November 7, 2017 Supershrink Polyester is the one for me. Shrinks well, very tolerant of over heating and lighter. A club member has just tried it and decided that it is far better and cheaper than Oracover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted November 7, 2017 Share Posted November 7, 2017 Heat guns good for the wrinkles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Elen Posted November 7, 2017 Author Share Posted November 7, 2017 I'll have to try that Peter👍 Hi John, hope you are well👍 I tend not to use the heat gun as I always end up burning my fingers as I'm holding the covering, end up hopping around the workshop swearing whilst trying not to make a mess of whatever it is I'm holding😂 Heres my plan for the tail wheel, the thinnest Ali I could find, it still needs Fettling and it will be held in place by the rudder horn. Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted November 7, 2017 Share Posted November 7, 2017 Fine thanks Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 Use the heat gun after every edge is stuck down leaving just a tiny exit for the expanded air. No fingers involved. As an added tip I shrink the covering on the wings by doing two ribs underneath four on top, four underneath working out top and bottom gradually. THis help reduce any possibility of warping the wing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Elen Posted November 8, 2017 Author Share Posted November 8, 2017 Hi Gents, Thanks for the tips Peter, I actually managed to use the heat gun tonight and not burn my fingers😁 By far the hardest bit of covering done and I'm pretty happy with it. Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 I don't really think you need any tips from me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Elen Posted November 10, 2017 Author Share Posted November 10, 2017 Hi Peter, Tips are always welcome here, there is always something to learn 👍 A little more done tonight Most of that was done with the heat gun (and without burning my fingers too😁 Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted November 10, 2017 Share Posted November 10, 2017 This is really getting into a work of art, Mark. I suppose the bottom of the fuse sides will be white as some parts of your wing? Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Elen Posted November 10, 2017 Author Share Posted November 10, 2017 Hey Chris, Hope you are well. Yes, the bottom half will be white, and as it will 'show through', I've had to make a great effort to get all of the lines straight and equal. I'm not overly happy that the white will have an edge to catch the oil from the engine (covering sequence should be top, bottom, then sides, this is going to leave a 'wrong edge' but the to do it properly, would mean the blue edge over the white. Ive just realised my OCD is getting the better of me😂😂😂😂😂😂👍 All the best👍 Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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