Jump to content

Soldering iron or ?


Recommended Posts

Might be worth thinking about a used Weller Soldering Station or just a Weller TCP mains soldering iron - quite a few on Ebay. Much too expensive brand new for hobby use, unless electronics are your thing and of course spare tips etc are readily available. A decent soldering iron makes the job so much easier - still have mine after 35 years.

 

 

Edited By Cuban8 on 16/01/2016 11:45:52

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been a fan of the Weller TCP irons for 40 years (24 v version). I remember when they were black not blueI could say I still have my original but that would be like Trigger saying he has the same broom. Certainly had a new handle new lead and at least 2 thermostats

they are not cheap but versatile and could save a fortune in different irons. By simply changing the bit the same iron will do the finest surface mount electronics and two minutes later will be doing metalwork with tin plate or brass or soldering together an undercarriage bound with copper wire

you don't need a fancy soldering station to change temperature just different temperature and different sized bits.

the bits last for ages but keep an eye on the thermostat. They can pack up (after. Years of regular use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Has anyone experience with Resistance Soldering where you only heat the area you wish to solder and no other? They are expensive but look like they would be great for model work!

Resistance Soldering -- the Easy, Professional Way to Solder

This will be one of the most useful tools you'll ever purchase for model building. It will save you countless hours and make soldering a far less tedious and difficult task. How it works: Just hold the electrode to the part to be soldered and depress the foot switch. The power supply passes a safe low voltage, high amperage electrical current through the part, instantly heating it to soldering temperatures. Apply solder, then release the foot switch. The bond is complete -- in just seconds! The heat is generated only in the workpiece, so other pieces you've already soldered won't fall off. And since you dial-in the amount of heat you need at the power supply, you can solder everything from the tiniest etched parts to heavy castings. A resistance soldering unit concentrates heat at the joint, so it will heat larger work than will a conventional soldering iron of the same power. Use for soldering power feeds to model railroad track (the fast, pinpoint concentration of heat won't melt nearby plastic ties), brass trestle construction, turnout fabrication, rail joining, brass scratch-built items, ship model railings, fittings and more. Works on any material that can be soldered. American Beauty brand made in the USA to heavy-duty industrial standards. Order your high-performance resistance soldering outfit today for the fastest, easiest, cleanest solder joints you've ever seen.

Complete Resistance Soldering Outfit includes 100W, 120v AC power supply, single electrode handpiece, clip lead, and foot switch.

A 220v AC version is also available. See #85075B below.

Click HERE to see a great article on resistance soldering

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted by Andy48 on 16/01/2016 17:00:17:
Posted by trebor on 16/01/2016 12:43:14:

Oh that heat gun would be good for shrink tube and wing covering maybe setting spots of glue firm. I might use it more than the iron.

It will be far too hot for those application. It is for desoldering.

Looks like they can drop the voltage down to a 100 deg C which would be ok for shrink tube and covering.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tested the other half`s hair dryer for temperature inside the nozzle at maximum temp, it reached 95 deg c. Holding the blower nozzle away from the item being heated it should be ok. Plus you can take the nozzle off so it would be less concentrated in one spot.

Edited By trebor on 16/01/2016 22:13:45

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Love the Weller gear but as mentioned they are expensive, mine need repair at the moment after many years of use. I have two Xytronic stations on my bench at the moment (with different size tips) and a Skytronic at home, all have been great.

I would say a minimum of 45W preferably 60W, remember overheating is not a problem as the thermostat deals with that (any iron without a thermostat should have its lead cut off and be pushed in the ground as a model restraint). It's all about getting the heat in the joint promptly so that it wets out fully before the heat spreads where you don't want it.

One of the best irons I have ever used is a Weller iron intended for surface mount work. It was no thicker than a fountain pen but rated at 90W! Off to soldering temp in 7 seconds!

CPC have a good range at sensible prices. Be wary of irons that say temperature controlled, make sure they are thermostatic as there are some out there that basically have a lamp dimmer on them, trust me they are not the same thing.

Shaunie.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Trebor, As with all tools, Buy the best you can. A few weeks ago, I bought a soldering station, which allows me to control the heat. It is truly a wondrous thing.

Re a heat gun, you have no real control of the temperature, and as all true shrinkers know, temperature is the key to a neat job, and minimum sagging

I use a wee gas torch for heatshrink tubing

Go on treat yourself.

ernie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wellers used to be the bees` knees but they are expensive and old hat now. You cannot go wrong with a Duratool one from CPC, catalogue No. SD01117 for 48 pounds. These are good enough to use professionally. The various spare tips etc. cost peanuts. Get the full range of tips for about 7 pounds. (sorry, this is an American keyboard and does not have a `Pound` key!).

I drafted out a full article on the subject but it will not now be published. It may be possible for me to send a copy to anyone genuinely interested if they pm me but please do not inundate me with requests.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

My heavy duty soldering iron that I inherited from my Dad has just burnt out and I need to get another one for soldering 8swg wire for undercarriage legs. Is the best idea just to get a 100w+ one with a heavy tip or are the ones with a wire loop like the Weller or Fuller ones OK? There is a Fuller brand on sale here (in NZ) available for a good price with a neat storage case.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...