Two Six Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 Hi Folks, I have never built a balsa model before. I am seriously thinking about starting. I have all the stuff I need to get building. I was considering building the CliffWhacker but I feel queezy about the whole no engine thing...I also really fancy another IC powered model. I have a Seagull Boomerang and the field kit for it so another glow powered model would be nice. I also have an old Enya 35 engine that's still pretty good...I think...that I am considering using. Or I might get a new hobbyking motor..not sure yet. Perhaps I shouldn't base a new build on such an old engine. It has been fairly abused by me in my younger years when I used to run it on a bench. It flew once, crashed once and has sat about for years. Still that said, it does run OK. I am going to test it again with a nice new fuel system to see how it runs. Then I can decide... Anyhow, just a note to say hi and check in. Where should I start with this project? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 Start by checking out the Mass Build threads - the launch, the prep and the individual blogs. The Mass Build is intended exactly for those like you new to building. You'll lots of support and advice and have many examples from more experienced builders to follow. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 Enyas run forever, so you should be o.k T.S You know about the laser cut parts you can buy, or are you thinking of cutting your own ? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Hi two six. I can fully recommend having ago at building the ballerina. Weather you decide to cut your own parts or laser cut, you will really enjoy it. It's my first scratch built plane. The wealth of knowledge on the forum is second to none, so there is always help and support when needed. Go on, have a go. You know you want too. 😆😆😆 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Hi two six. The Enya should be fine for Ballerina. Plenty of power without overdoing it. There are masses f build blogs as BEB has said. Some are somewhat modified. Go through my original ans well as the others. Join the club, you wil never be as satisfied with ARTFs again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low pass Pete Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Hi two six Have you flown a low winger before? Try a kit such as a DB Sport and Scale Mascot as a first build. **LINK** or perhaps a Sky40 from Tony Nijhuis. The 35 should be ok for the Mascot but perhaps not the Sky40. Then build Ballerina as a longer time 2nd project. She really is nice to build and a credit to Pete Miller. I'm really pleased with mine. Hope that helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low pass Pete Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 or perhaps this from DB Sport and scale and it has ribs available. **LINK** Edited By Low pass Pete on 11/02/2016 09:19:16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Two Six Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 Some great encouraging responses so far. Thanks. I have read quite a few build blogs and the getting started thread. So I have a LITTLE BIT of an idea as to what's required. Have I flown a low winger, nope. I have a Bixler and an AXN floater jet, I fly these quite often, hill soaring them. I have been learning how to fly since 2006 with the Boomerang and finally got some confidence to fly it solo last summer...a bit. I also fly MCPX's a lot, a my 250 FPV racer quad, my Hubsan and I hope to get comfortable flying my 450 helis by the end of the summer.... Some nice kits there from DB, however I really want to build my own plane from scratch. I have bought the wood already too. I am going to have a proper look at the plans pretty soon......that's a start, then start chopping out bits for the fuselage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 For a first build make sure you stick to the standard version as per the plan and article - avoid built up tailplane which is more complicated and time consuming. The original thread - here-shows the basic construction of the model as designed. There are several notes about the plan here which will clarify some slight problems. Ask any questions and someone will be sure to help you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Ballerina pretty much fits the bill on a model I would recommend as a first low winger T.S Don't forget to post some pictures when you start. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevinlad Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 There seems to be much confusion about the wing location peg bulkhead hole position. To get the hole in exactly the right place is dead simple using my method. First drill the hole in the "as drawn" position. Then elongate the hole upwards by about 10mm. Having constructed the fuz. and wing, fit the wing in place (with the dowel fitted) Then, cut a piece of 1/8" ply roughly 55mm x 30mm and drill a hole same as the dowel size about 10mm. up and central in the piece of ply. Now, fit the ply forward of the bulkhead and onto the dowel.and glue it in place. Now you have the hole exactly where it needs to be, for only a few minutes work - simple! (careful not to glue the dowel in ! Edited By Kevinlad on 12/02/2016 16:37:44 Edited By Kevinlad on 12/02/2016 16:40:31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 THat would work BUT if there is a gap between the leading edge and the hole it will weaken the dowel. If there is no gap the dowel only has a shear load on it. Ifthere is a gap the will be a bending moment as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevinlad Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Peter - There are, as ever, simple solutions to your "problem". Either increase the diameter of the dowel a little, or fill up the tiny gap around the dowel hole with epoxy, and smooth off. One could even consider the negligable bending stress over 1/8" distance, as a good fail-safe point (cheaper to break a dowel than the wing!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 You are probably right. It is just that sloppy holes and engineering and fitting do not go together. There is a simpler answer. if you want to go that way though. One which I have actually mentioned on some of my designs. Drill the hole high and then file it downwards. until the wing seats properly That way the hole still is right up against the leading edge but with just a small gap above it. Usually just the odd mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 The thing is that the whole dowel was designed to fit up higher in the rib with a longer slot and the hole would therefore be higher up. The thread mentioned above shows this. If building from scratch ( without pre cut parts ) then that's the way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevinlad Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Er -- sure, Peter - but wouldn't your solution result in a "sloppy hole" ?? My method certainly doesn't....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Posted by Kevinlad on 12/02/2016 19:12:16: Er -- sure, Peter - but wouldn't your solution result in a "sloppy hole" ?? My method certainly doesn't....... But surely there is a gap between the added piece of ply leaving a void betwen leading edge and actual hole. With the method I mention the dowel is secure against the lower side of the hole which is right up against the leading edge and the wing cannot have any upward movement because it is against the wing seating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 You lads may have crossed wires ? the extra ply is tother side of former I think, so it is up to the wing seat ? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevinlad Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 As I said earlier, Peter, the gap that is worrying you can simply be filled with epoxy and levelled off, leaving no gap and a perfectly fitting wing with no slop at all. Guess we'll just have to agree to differ on this one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 ... and what about a 'simple' 6mm Carbon Fiber tube dowel? You can have whatever "void'"in the basic former. Just use AVC's method for exactitude when presenting the wing. No strength problems & it's even lighter than wood... Hakuna matata Chris BRU - BE / CTR GF Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Yes, OK fine! What ever you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevinlad Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 . Edited By Kevinlad on 12/02/2016 20:15:00 Edited By Kevinlad on 12/02/2016 20:16:37 Can't find any way to cancel this ******* posting Edited By Kevinlad on 12/02/2016 20:20:48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevinlad Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Fellow Ballerina builders may be interested in my method of attaching the engine cowling. For me, this was the only tricky part of the build (the magazine article does'nt mention this bit - the cowling appears to be permanently fitted with no join line visible.... ) My cowling is easily fitted: - two lower dowels firmly locate the cowling, and the upper part is secured by magnets. In use the cowling is simply pushed on, over the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Hm, I like the dowels, but dislike the magnet. If the cowl is pushed forward (clumsy handling) when the engine is running it may jam against the spinner.. What about dowels tofix i latterally and 2 screws through the firewall to keep it in place? At least when one has a battery hatch these screws are easily accessible, and hidden from view. Edited By Lucas Hofman on 12/02/2016 22:05:15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevinlad Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Sure, Lucas, good alternative. Awkward to get a screwdriver in there, but you could use thumbscrews OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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