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Tony Nijhuis 72” Mosquito – Build Log


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I too prefer to over-size the ESCs when I have to mount them out of the air flow.

A couple of other "tricks" come to mind when I think about it: In my scale-fuselaged helis I've got cooling fans attached directly to the ESCs heat-sinks; and in my Flair Manatilla I've substituted an aluminium floor panel in place of the balsa one, to attach the 70-watt sound system amplifier's heat-sink to. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I haven't posted for a while as I have had a bit of a break from the build, concentrating on flying and repairing other models.

Now that the weather is becoming less favourable, I have been getting back into building.

I have cut out the gear doors and shaped the inside faces.

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Also cut out the cockpit area.

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Finally, glued on the horizontal stab.

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More later...

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Thanks chaps.

Rog - I am going to go for a glass fibre/epoxy resin finish and spray paint

Martin and Martian - if you read this, can I ask if you used a steerable tail wheel in your models?

I ask because the one if have, the steering arm protrudes outside of the fuselage side which will mean cutting away some of the balsa. From your pictures you don't appear to have had that problem.

Geoff...

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My build is at about the same stage as yours Geoff, and I'll be glassing and airbrushing.

My rear wheel is retractable, but I doubt if I'll make it steerable. But, being electric, it's quite easy to programme motor differential if you want to help ground handling when returning from a flight. I've done it on my Multiplex Twinstar (which I've added tail-dragger undercarriage to) with motor throttles mixed with rudder, with a switch to disable it so that I don't inadvertently use it during flight.

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Posted by Geoff Gardiner on 12/09/2017 18:30:07:

Thanks chaps.

Rog - I am going to go for a glass fibre/epoxy resin finish and spray paint

Martin and Martian - if you read this, can I ask if you used a steerable tail wheel in your models?

I ask because the one if have, the steering arm protrudes outside of the fuselage side which will mean cutting away some of the balsa. From your pictures you don't appear to have had that problem.

Geoff...

Non steering and retractable ,with the retract unit I used the steering link was just an irritation so I abandoned it I can make it castoring if necessary . The real mossie had a castoring tailwheel .

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  • 1 month later...

Geoff.

Normal prep for balsa with filler. Then fiberglass with Eze-Kote. So much easier than epoxy and just as good (in my opinion). Then my trick, after a good sanding, is to fill all the normal fiberglass "micro holes" with Perfect Plastic Putty mixed 50/50 with water. This followed by a sanding creates almost glass. Then on to Klass Kote epoxy paint (So far just undercoat). Super hard and strong finish..

Mike

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  • 2 weeks later...

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