Warbird Replicas Bf 110 club.

[Paul Johnson 4]

DD it usually takes about an hr to go hard up to then if you use to much you will have to keep wiping off the 'excess' with a damp cloth. It is messy but once dry sands very well. A little tip is to cover the seam with masking tape and put small pin holes in it to allow the excess glue to escape through, that way it is easier to keep a neat join. The excess does have a honey comb structure when dry completely so might need a little filling when trimmed.

Graham if you look back at how I have fitted my nacelles I haven't glued any on and they are rock solid.

Have you ever noticed if you fix it in place ... you will then need to remove it!

'Sods first law'

[Dwain Dibley.]

Saw two types of G.Glue today, white and brown, got confused, didn't buy either. DOH!!

Bought some 12mm ply cos I made this roof on my shed.

Had to wait till it was cooler to get the felt on.

I still had a bit of time left to have a play with the 110, I did some more papering after sanding the filler on the fuselage. I did the wing fairings and the bottom of the fuselage. the sides are next, then the top.

this is how the bigger servos poked out into the cockpit. I will have to make some sort of semi scale cover for them.

[RICHARD WILLS]

Nice papering DD ! Ive got a dining room that wants doing

The Gorilla glue looks like maple syrup . Ive tried it on pancakes but it wasn't quite right if I'm honest.

Those servos will be easy to hide with a bit of "fake cabin furniture" . I used some of those little vac forms that you get with a card backing in halfords (you know the ones , where you get ripped off about £5 for two number plate bolts)

Paint them black , job done.

I must say that your brown papering ( do you work with the elves at Christmas ?) is some of the best Ive seen . Is there anything you dont do well ?

[Paul Johnson 4]

Groooaan Richard not MORE 'well' jokes

[Dwain Dibley.]

Verily they Quipped and made Merry and all was well with the world.

I have done nothing today, I was working in the Garden and I was very Hot, Ironically, there was very little water available in the Well.

D.D.

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Dwain Dibley.]

Oils well that ends well !!

D.D.

[Dwain Dibley.]

Today I had a very good conversation with Paul on the telling bone, it was great to talk one to one, we ironed out a few things and put the world to rights, as you do.

I have done a little bit to the 110 today. I have now glued in the flaps and I have put "Z" bends in the rods to get them lower down, also I offset the servo arms to ensure the same travel on both flaps. I may yet still amend this setup !!

I may apply some paint next week.

D.D.

[Dwain Dibley.]

Some Paint.

[Dwain Dibley.]

You remember I said i might amend the flap set up, well, I did.

Here's what I did. I moves the servos and made everything straight lines and it all works fine now, with no mad differential occurring .

Also, the wing fell over and the aileron was damaged so I had to facilitate a repair.

D.D.

I wet the damaged area and applied the iron to smooth out the crease then papered it over.

Here's the new servo arrangement. Ok, they are out in the open but hey ho.. holes filled with balsa, and new horn ply plates glued in.

[Dwain Dibley.]

Well, the weather was rotten again today so I couldn't ride my bike.......instead I did some more painting on the 110.

Not a lot to say really, but I took some pics. I have got the basic colours on and a bit of Camo down the sides.

Oh yes, I had to add some balsa to the rear cockpit sides to make up the gap where the canopy fits. just glued in some 1/2 inch sheet and sanded it to shape.

The next job will be to get the nose on the fuz, (this will be a good place for ballast if its needed so will be removable), Fix the tail on, and make the hatch locks/catches and magnets.

D.D.

More papering but that is the last piece....YAY !! Unless I do the nacelle side in balsa DOH !!

In the pic below you can see where I will have to fill in with balsa or plastic, balsa will be easier for me.

[Dwain Dibley.]

Today I have been working on filling the gap between the plastic bottom nacelle and the top hatch. I did this by cutting some balsa to fit and then sanding it to profile and level with the plastic sheet. I then papered and painted it.

Prior to this I had to drill and fix the bottom nacelle in place, using 7 cap head screws each side. During this process the nacelles were on and off like the proverbial Lady of the Nights' underwear.

The finished result looks pretty good, but I did make work for myself here, and, as we are fond of saying in this thread, "You guys don't have to do it this way"

I still have to cut the access for the retracts but that a job for another day.

D.D.

The Gap.

The Gap filled in.

Sanding.

Getting there.

Got there.

With the lid on.

Finally some paint.

[lightning 759]

looking good

andy

[Dwain Dibley.]

Thanks Andy.
D.D.

[McG 6969]

Hi Dwain,

Even if I finished my Bella Ballerina build some time ago, I'm still very interested in learning some new tricks regarding modelling.

If you allow me, I see you used some 'filler' at the junction of the nacelle and the wings LE. May I ask what you are using. Is it lightweight filler, silicone paste or another 'dark' trick?

Also I'm very curious of having a go at using some brown paper covering one day.

Anyhow, this is really a very passionate and great build & blog. 5*****...

Cheers

Chris

[Robert Parker]

Hi D.D,

What a great job your doing keep it up.

I like your mottled paint effect blending the two colours together

Regards

Robert

[Paul Johnson 4]

Posted by Dwain Dibley. on 30/06/2017 21:25:58:

During this process the nacelles were on and off like the proverbial Lady of the Nights' underwear.

The finished result looks pretty good, but I did make work for myself here, and, as we are fond of saying in this thread, "You guys don't have to do it this way"

I still have to cut the access for the retracts but that a job for another day.

D.D.

Hey DD your coming on leaps and bounds matey...

Mines slowed a little as sorting a little thing for 'The Man' which you are aware of.

I'll have to play catch up. I glad you had fun with the nacelles fun an't it? on...off...on...off...on...

My nacelles are almost complete, just a little more mmm adjustment..... off it comes again!!

[Dwain Dibley.]

Hi Chris, Thanks for the kind remarks Matey....

It is the light weight balsa filler, it's good when you need to fill a gap and cover the result after sanding, but it is too soft to leave uncovered or just painted.

If you need to say, get a nice clean edge on say the nacelle, where it butts up to the cowl, you need to use car body filler or the like. A good tip told to me by David Vaughan, is to cover the cowl in cling film or similar, attach it, and fill the gap with filler. when dry sand it down level with the cowl. Remove cowl, remove cling film, which should have stopped the cowl from sticking. you should then have a very neat edge for the cowl to butt up to.

Thanks Robert,

I literally smash it on with a cheap brush, using a jabbing motion.

Yeah Paulo, , it's all go on that front, you are doing a splendid job on our behalf Dood....Many thanks.......

today I have had the cowls on and off an equally annoying amount of times.

D.D.

[Dwain Dibley.]

Here is the saga of the Motor fitting.

I checked the clearance of the starboard prop and all that was needed was one washer to push the prop off the cowl.

I drew crosses on the front of my mounts and marked the holes for the metal motor mounts. I use plaster board screws to fix them. I have never had one come loose, even in a crash.

I then fitted the port motor.......This needed 3 washers which didn't really leave enough thread for the prop nut, so I dismantled it and added a piece of 2.5 mm ply to the front of the motor mount. my motors are on the 3rd slot in the supplied motor box B.T.W. I put both motors on and they seem to be in the right place smack in the middle of the cowls.The props and spinners look awesome.

I have put some paint on the cowls, but the yellow is really translucent and will need some more coats.

D.D.

Extra ply.

The motor in place....Behind this mount will be some triangle braces, and the ESC should just slot in as well.

Now that the ply is added, we just need one washer on each motor.

Sexy prop and spinner

The Gap. The prop sticks out below the spinner as you can see, which makes for a bigger gap than perhaps you would like

 

Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 01/07/2017 22:21:36

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Paul Johnson 4]

Looking Good DD

Now just a little progress on my front..

[Dwain Dibley.]

Very Nice Paul,
Did you use the supplied ply manifold parts ?
On the model I am reproducing the inboard zorsts are pointing down, outboard are up. Just to complicate stuff......

[Paul Johnson 4]

Hi DD
No ply in sight....
With the exhausts that one is held on with blue tack....
But will glue directly to cowling.
As I am doing a G I will have 3 up and one down. The exhaust s from the site are for the more common C variants 2 up 2 down.

[Dwain Dibley.]

I will wait and see what you do, seeing as you made them.
I have sorted my crew out, had to cut them to get them in.
I have used the supplied interior, it looks good. You could go to town on this area, there is loads of room, but I resisted. I want to get it in the air.
I will get the tail on next, and connect it all up. Photos in a bit....the nipper has got the laptop, and I cant see how to do them from my phone.
D.D.

[Dwain Dibley.]

Stupid Phone.

Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 02/07/2017 19:54:21