Warbird Replicas Bf 110 club.

[Dwain Dibley.]

Well done Paul, those hatches are tricky..........

I too have been out side, building a well !! it's about 8 feet deep with running water at the bottom. The canopy had had it so I replaced it.

As it was raining today I also did a bit on the 110.

I covered the ailerons and flaps with brown paper. I was a bit disappointed with the results.....Bubbles and loads of em........

I was close to ripping it all off when I thought of an idea. I re-soaked the paper and re-ironed it......No bubbles. YAY.

I may still go for tex on the wings and fuz..as I am definitely more comfortable with it.

D.D.

[Paul Johnson 4]

Well well DD. Stick with it mate it doesn't take long to get the hang of it. Make sure that the glue isn't too thin. Give the paper a chance to grow a little when wet and then apply. Work from the middle out, as I use grease proof paper I have to put a small cut into any bubbles and push more glue with a small brush underneath you can use this with ordinary brown paper too. They then disappear. It's a vey light covering and very strong. Richard uses a coat of non shrinking dope on brown paper to seal it before undercoating but I found with greaseproof it's ready for primer without the coat of dope... less weight too...

Man of your calibre..... no probs..

[RICHARD WILLS]

Paul's right DD , glue too thin . Needs to be like single cream . Just enough to get it moving when you paste it on .

Once on , it doesnt bubble in the sun like solartex (can ) .

[Dwain Dibley.]

I thought I had mixed it to the same consistency as last time ...

Ah Well !!

[Paul Johnson 4]

DD use well water...... it's sure to go well.

[RICHARD WILLS]

ha!

You wish.....

threpence for your thoughts

(thats deep, that )

Oh no... done it again ,

Im punning myself into a corner !

help ! I cant get out .

[Dwain Dibley.]

Some stunning Well related meanderings there Richard, since I built it, the bucket has been stolen.....................................The Police are looking into it........................ They have a case, but it may not hold water, headed by C.I. Delilah............

Anyway.........here's some very nice soldering to look at !!!!

Well, you can't see the solder, but you know where it is !!!

3mm Connectors on the ESC end to match the supplied motors and XT60's on t'other end. You can see the old battery connectors in to stop the pins moving when they get hot during soldering.

ESC's will be on a Y lead, one will have the red wire pulled from the plug as only one will need to supply power to the Rx, the one supplying the Rx will always be connected first, so that the model always has a radio connection, for safety reasons.

I have bought two of these. Might use em, might not, dirt cheap. Found them after I made my own arming plug for the Moth, they still have to be wired up into a harness tho. An arming plug allows the batteries to be connected with out the model becoming live.

D.D.

Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 30/05/2017 23:05:55

Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 30/05/2017 23:08:37

[Dwain Dibley.]

I have clagged it all together...........Two motors, two ESC's, two batteries, one "Y" lead, and one receiver.

I like having a play like this but it does serve a purpose in that it all gets tested, before it goes in the model.

D.D.

ESC's marked up. Notice the red wire pulled from the plug in the top left hand corner.

It's Alive......................!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Paul Johnson 4]

Na DD too good for that... they would only come off if he had the motors spinning backwards.
DD is always going forwards.... usually at a right rate of knots too!

I always'wishing well' in his progress

[Dwain Dibley.]

That was the theory guys..........left hand rotation, right hand thread, plus I tweaked em down on the ends of the threads....

But, good advice, don't forget to take the nuts off if you don't tighten em down. Another idea would be to make some cut down test props, I saw that in a video on youtube.

Plumbing the depths of the Well puns Paulo... But thanks for the support, and your concern for my............................................................. Well being

I'm welling up.  

D.D.

Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 01/06/2017 09:40:49

[steve Atkinson 2]

Anyone interested will probably have a full kit up for grabs (motors thrown in free)

[Paul Johnson 4]

Well i will never think that my landings are that bad again....

https://youtu.be/6RTCWhZwyN0

 

Edited By Paul Johnson 4 on 03/06/2017 07:32:55

[Dwain Dibley.]

Those guys had some nerve to drop down on those carriers....My uncle Ron served on an aircraft carrier, He is gone now but he was a cool Guy.

I have just done another Saturday at work, the last for about 5 weeks or so, so maybe I can get some Balsa Bashing done.

Today I made a start on the wing fairings......These are a bit fiddly but relatively easy to do, just cut loads of slots in the triangle section supplied and bend it..... Don't worry if it breaks, mine did, cos you will be sanding for England anyway later. The front and rear will be shaped later.

Do, however, remember to put some plastic sheet between the wing and the fuz, else you will have a "fixed" fixed wing......You only want to stick the fairing to the fuz.

I have only done one side, as my two Girls made me watch the final of B.G.T...............

D.D.

[Graham R]

Evening all

It's been a bit quiet on here lately. I'm procrastinating again. I can't decide what to do next. I have servo boxes installed also hollowed wings for the fitting of retracts.i have yet to cut out the wheel wells. i haven't joined the wings yet as it's easier to work on shorter components and lesson the risk of hanger rash. If I Glue on the nacelles first, will it make it more difficult when joining the wings as they won't rest flat on the bench. Decisions, decisions.

[Dwain Dibley.]

I would have thought it would be easier to join the wings before adding the nacelles, but Paul has done it the other way so he is qualified to advise you how that went, mind you, has he joined his wings yet ???

I want to get all the fiddly bits done before adding the nacelles.I may even cover the wings first too.

I have a reasonably big workshop, but still get dings in stuff..................that's what the filler is for.......

D.D.

[Paul Johnson 4]

Hi Guys

Yes I haven't joined the wings yet I haven't the room to work on it joined without knocking a wall down....

I am going to complete each wing and leave joining till just before i cover the main surfaces. I am also not joining the tail on yet again due to space restrictions. As I have discovered there is alot to do for each nacelle and trying to swing the completed wing about is a no go for me. You have to treat each side( wing... nacelle) as an individual do not assume you can cut both from one sides layout. For example the leg springs are the same hand(wound same direction) so both will the be offset differently unless you feel like winding an opposite in 5mm piano wire (weetabix needed..lots of....)

Graham work with what suits you and you feel comfortable with.

I don't for see any issues joining the two halves with the nacelles fitted. There is plenty of wing area to support when joining.

 

 

 

Edited By Paul Johnson 4 on 03/06/2017 23:00:34

[RICHARD WILLS]

I think there is a lot of sense in joining the wings late in the game , It is so much easier to swing a three foot panel around than the full six foot . With twins , the fuselage is only really there to tell the tail plane where to be . All of the action happens in the wing , I even base the receiver on the wing for the electric versions so that I just have an elevator and rudder servo to plug in before I'm ready to fly .

Although my own 110 is IC , I have been flying my electric Ju88 of the same size a lot lately .

I normally try and pick a calm morning so that I can fly it very low and smoothly with huge figure of eight circuits and banked low passes.. I have to say that it still gives a real buzz to see this very large and incredibly realistic fighter cruising around with very little input from myself . This why I have pushed so hard to get you guys to try the 6ft twin thing , It really is a totally different experience , especially when there is little wind because they look absolutely real. I can guarantee that when you all get yours flying , you will be grinning like a bunch of Cheshire cats

[Dwain Dibley.]

I tell you what.........soft as it seems............such a simple thing as mounting the Rx on the wing..............it needs to be said out loud.

It was a revelation to me..............Normally all the leads and gubbins are in the Fuz, but on the 110 ??? Nah, they are in the wings.........normally its the ailerons to be connected to fly, here as Richard says, it's the Rudder/elevator.

Think out side the Box, or in this case the fuselage.

The only concern is the orientation of the satelite Rx ariels ( Spektrum), but should be easy to solve by digging another hole, or making a box.

I have regained some momentum now and have got the fairings on, sanded and filled, ready for final sanding.

I have shaped both wing tips to their final profile.

I also made the Aileron servo boxes and dug the holes in the wing. At the risk of duplicating what Paul has already said, I just marked up the box positions in relation to the Ailerons and where the rods would be, drew round the tops, and cut out the veneer.

I cut just inside the lines for a neat fit. I then employed the old solder gun foam cutter and melted out the guts of the wing. It was still set to the right depth from when I built the LA7, how cool is that ???

It all seems to be going quite well !!

D.D.

Fairings.

Underneath, plus the now blindingly obvious lack of leads to jack into an Rx.

Wing boxes. First,.... peel a wing.

Then scoop out the meat.

Leaving a nice receptacle to take your chosen filling.

Snug.

Boxes being cooked on gas mark 6, for 60 minutes, until Golden Brown, with a texture like sun.

 

 

Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 04/06/2017 15:55:25

[Paul Johnson 4]

Hey DD boxey but good....
I'm busy making up servo extention wires
I prefer to make them to length than use pre made ones and have to hide the extra. I have my receiver in the fuz but as in all my models (unless it is a bolt it together and fly job but even then that can change) I make a single plug with all the connections in it.
Just one to make then everythings good to go without the connection label that falls off eventually and then having to swop as the flaps have become the ailerons.
After reading Richards last post I am looking forward to the day this bird flys, for someone who has designed, built and flown various models for a long time to enthuse so much over a specific model makes me think we may have a little winner here in the BF110.

[Dwain Dibley.]

All of the Big Mans models fly like dreams Paulo, I have some footage of the LA7 somewhere on youtube I will try and post it.

I was considering doing the same with the leads Paul, looking forward to see how you make your block connector.

I have been fiddling again this afternoon, I have glued on the nacelles after shaping them up, I dug a trench for the rear former in each wing about 1/8th deep and flooded them with Aliphatic resin.

I have strayed from the plan with the battery hatch covers, and covered them in balsa. I was having a hell of a game with the vac formed covers fitting where they touched. so I will use the rear half and the front cowl and make up the side panels with whats left. pics when it's done as it will be easier to show than explain.

D.D.

shaped up nice again !!

Gluing up and cowls opened up.

Vac form starboard side Covering the hatch.

Balsa covered hatch. More balsa will be added to blend in with the plastic once it's all fixed, and sanded to a level finish

LA7 vid.

Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 04/06/2017 21:47:42

[Dwain Dibley.]

OK...So this morning I made the extra locating rings (supplied) fit inside the motor cowls, so that when the cowls are pushed against the nacelles all is square.

The excess plastic will be dremilled back flush.

Also any discrepancy between cowl and nacelle/hatch etc can be made up with 1/16th balsa and filler and sanded back. A tip I got from David Vaughn, a rather excellent scale builder, who is a member at my club.

The intention is to glue these in and use them to fix the cowls on through the front, or any convenient hole I may make for cooling. Or they could be permanently fixed as I think there may be enough room to remove the motors thru the front of the cowl.

D.D.

[Graham R]

Posted by Paul Johnson 4 on 29/05/2017 17:17:49:

Well not a lot doing.... too nice outside.... but got some nice little screws for the nacelle hatches.... you could alway just glue them on but...

Hi Paul How did you get the plastic moulding to join onto the rear of the hatch,as the diameter iof the hatch former is a lot less than the moulding?

Intresting to see how you and Dwain tackle the nacelles.

[Dwain Dibley.]

That's where I was having trouble graham, and decided that a wood covered hatch would be better. I can always build that up to match the vac formed parts.

D.D.

[Paul Johnson 4]

Hi guys,
Yes it is a different radius but you can overcome this by working from the centre out. Mark a centre line on the cowling and the same on the formers. Then fix at the centre with some small screws. To help with this I added an extra piece of liteply to the insides of the hatch same radius and size so doubled its thickness. This gives a better fixing point for the screws. With the centre fixed I worked downwards fixing as I went.
With the rear fixing on the top naceĺle I drilled a small hole anf fixed a small piece of ply shaped to fit in the end 'pointy bit' when I fixed the two front screws I just added glue to the ply insert.
I'll taķe some more pictures later of it apart so you can see what I did. Try to get it done tomorrow for you.