Robin Etherton Posted June 5, 2017 Share Posted June 5, 2017 Parridav I am also in the process of upgrading the wires to the heat bed and direct soldering them. And have ordered a mains plug and switch. What a pain in the preverbial to have to pull out the plug each time. Swmbo has also prompted me to order a quieter extruder fan. Sometimes the supplied one screams at high pitch and even if you turn it down on the panel the pesky gcode sometimes turns it back up again. Sometime soon I hope to finish the upgrades and get down to printing something useful, but it's great fun getting there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Chaddock Posted June 5, 2017 Share Posted June 5, 2017 Robin E If you are referring to te centrifugal extruder fan its speed can be controlled (or switched off completely) by setting parameters in the slicer program. As far as I know the axial extruder fan is on all the time the extruder nozzle heat is on.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Etherton Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Simon Thanks for that. The axial fan is no problem. Didn't know that about the slicer program. I will do some exploring whilst waiting for the new fan. Only been printing a few days and it's a whole new world of jargon and mysteries. Robin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaL Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 The extruder cooling fan must remain on, blowing air over the extruder heatsink while the hotend is hot. Most , if not all, controller boards automatically switch it on and off according to the thermistor temperature. Failure to keep the 'cold end' cool will cause the filament to melt too high up in the nozzle and cause a jam - usually referred to as heat creep. The filament cooling fan is controllable via the software and is usually switched on after the first layer has been deposited to assist maintaining the print integrity when printing overhangs and bridges, it 'sets' the plastic before it can droop. It is only needed if you have overhangs. Edited By MaL on 06/06/2017 10:36:39 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 I've printed one of these and it seems to have solved the screaming fan! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bowdler Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 Hi all, I am a newbie to this forum and 3D printing. Here is a picture of a Gnome engine printed for my electric Flair Puppeteer. A Friend designed it in CAD for me and we both printed the parts. The crank Case, Cylinder, Cylinder Head and Fuel inlet tubes are separately printed, primed with Halfords Plastic bumper primer. Then finished with Humbrol Enamels. If anyone is interested I could upload the files to Thingyverse. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 Please do! My Legionnaire wears a collection of Williams crankcase and cylinders assembled at (not quite as much as RRP) great cost sourced from Ebay etc. but that looks very convincing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Lighten Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 If you only knew how long I've been trying to do that!, YES, please do make it available, you'd be making a middle aged man very happy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Gardiner Posted June 13, 2017 Author Share Posted June 13, 2017 That would be great David - much better than my effort. There is a group here for uploading RC flying stuff on thingiverse. Geoff... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Chaddock Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 David That is a spectacular model. Building up such an engine from individual printed parts seems to be the best option. Now if i was to be very picky I could point out that the rocker configuration is not quite right. The 80 hp Le Rhone had an unusual rocker arrangement which meant the push rod was not parallel to the cylinder but was angled a bit towards the inlet duct. This is the usual scale 'conundrum' - the more you put on the more it shows up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Jones Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 Fantastic job DB, which filaments did you use? I quite fancy trying some of those metalised ones. It would be great if you uploaded the files for us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bowdler Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Thank you all for your positive comments, I will upload the CAD files using the link Geoff provided. The filament is 1.75mm from Solid Ink. The pushrods can be angled if required the rods are 1.6mm dia stainless steel welding wire. The cylinder heads are hidden inside the aluminium cowl so cannot be seen (see photo). I will mod the head at some stage to provide a location point for the pushrod and fix the angle of the pushrod. I am fitting a wooden prop in place of the plastic prop in the photo. I may even move the motor forward slightly too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Chaddock Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 David That is a very neat installation. Given that the Pupeteer is not really true scale to start with I would not really worry about the push rods. Only if it actually went round with prop would I start to worry about the scale positioning of the push rods! . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bowdler Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 I have given you some duff information on my previous post it was Rigid Ink not Solid Ink filament. It was also PLA. Sorry for misleading you. DB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Chaddock Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 As part of a micro EDF project I printed this thrust tube and inner cone for a 40 mm EDF. The interesting bit is that despite using the same CURA print files, adjusted only for head temperature, the yellow one in ABS weighs 2.7.g whereas the red one in PLA weighs only 2.1, a saving of 23%, not insignificant where planes are concerned. It does have to be said that the ABS version is generally a bit 'stiffer' so where shape rather than strength or stiffness are not the primary design concerns the type of plastic does make a difference. My hope is this exhaust tube will improve the total thrust by gradually changing the exhaust duct from a relatively large diameter 'annulus', resulting from the large diameter out runner bell, to a simple nozzle. In this case the duct area (actually 88% FSA) has been kept constant down the length of the tube. One advantage of printing is of course any of the parameters can be easily changed. In the above the outer and inner cones are actually printed individually using the "spiralize" option which prints the cone in one continuous pass so eliminating the Z axis 'seam' normally created by the start of each print layer. At this stage they are just 'test' pieces printed at low quality for speed using a 0.2 mm layer height. For the actual components that will be used in plane fine quality but slow prints will be used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bowdler Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 I have uploaded the assembly drawing and component STL files on to Thingyverse using the link that Geoff posted on the previous page. Hopefully all is clear. If not drop me a line on this forum and I will do my best to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaL Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 ummm..not showing yet.. perhaps they need vetting before being released...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bowdler Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 MaL I have created the username Bowdidley on Thingiverse try searching on that. DB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaL Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 Yep.. that works David Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Gardiner Posted June 20, 2017 Author Share Posted June 20, 2017 Nice one David - many thanks. I'll have a go at printing that. What size motor are you using with it in your Pup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bowdler Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 Geoff the motor is an E Max BL 2832/05, I have yet to fly the Puppeteer, which I recently bought second hand. The previous owner told me that the model will loop. The motor looks about right using the British Standard eyeball test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john kennedy 4 Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Hello, having a few problems with my Anet A8. Printed off the little Chinese chess figure which came out really nice. Grandson decided I should make him a Batman Fidget spinner **LINK** Went downhill from there. It didn't seem to finish properly leaving it without a solid top to it. Think its a leveling problem. The tape ripped off when trying to remove it so put some plain masking tape on which just peeled off when it heated up again. Ordered a bed from Maplin as suggested by Geoff. Also thinking about one of these **LINK** Are they any good ? Can someone please explain what's involved with changing Firmwear ? Is it a simple job for an old git to sort out ? Got a feeling I'll become a pest with all these questions Thanks, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Collins Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 Just built an Anet A6 which looks pretty similar to the A8. Done a couple of prints from Thingiverse that worked out fine. Would like to design my own stuff but I'm struggling with Turbocad. I've had it for a while but only ever used it in 2D! 3D is proving to be a steep learning curve. Current problem is that Tubocad shows 3D objects as a fairly crude wireframe - no problem in itself, but when I export the file in STL format, what I print is the wireframe, not the 'real' shape. Am I missing a trick, or do I need to buy the more professional version of Turbocad rather than the 'De Lux' version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Bernard Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 Have you tried the STL samples from TurboCAD? Do they do the same? (These can be found in the TurboCAD Samples folder. On my PC this is TurboCAD 2016 Deluxe\Drawings\Samples\stl.) Must admit I was a big TurboCAD advocate but was beaten when moving to 3D printing especially when I found lofting was only available in the Pro version. Almost certainly you will soon find yourself wanting this, especially when wanting to do things like cowls. I strongly recommend Fusion 360. Reasonably quick to learn for 3D printing, and its potential is mindblowing! (And free for hobbyists.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Gardiner Posted July 28, 2017 Author Share Posted July 28, 2017 Fusion 360 is my weapon of choice also. Lots of (how to) clips on youtube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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