Ron Gray Posted September 15, 2018 Share Posted September 15, 2018 My flaps are set for slow down but normal up ust in case I have to quickly raise them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ASH. Posted September 15, 2018 Share Posted September 15, 2018 Ron, if the flaps are raised quickly it can cause a sudden loss of lift.. I'm thinking of 'aborted landing' scenario. That's why on full size aircraft it's normal practice to keep them down until speed and height are gained. John, I'd be interested in knowing how you make f/g hinges for flaps - when you get around to it. Edited By ASH. on 15/09/2018 23:52:10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 Good point about the loss of lift but to be honest, in practice I haven’t really noticed it, I suppose because when I’ve aborted a landing power has been applied anyway. Most recent case was with my Hurricane when I approached the strip too slow with full flaps and it got rather twitchy, power was applied and flaps were raised to allow normal control to resume! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted September 16, 2018 Author Share Posted September 16, 2018 Will do ash, I might stick the plastic ones on with tape to look how it works, thing that bugging me is, will a gap have a bad effect on their performance and models behaviour ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ASH. Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 As with all flight control surfaces it's best not to have any gap or minimal. I take it your flap leading edge has no chamfer that's why the gap on top when deployed. I say fly it as is and see, then try with some film covering the gap. I don't know if tape will hold flap hinges, there is quite some force on flaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted September 16, 2018 Author Share Posted September 16, 2018 Tapes for a look see not to be used for flying it. I used to be indecisive, now I'm not so sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted September 16, 2018 Author Share Posted September 16, 2018 Pretty much done, I need some heavier gauge wire for the push rods, so it's a trip to Leeds model shop and get some Silver Profilm. Here's how hinge reckons to be fitted, that ain't right is it ? Stripped covering off and will chamfer the flaps and keep gap close with leaf and pin hinges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ASH. Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 Hmm.. that is a bit of a gap. It should be okay though. You can harden the balsa under hinge points by soaking with thin cyno. I find Seagull models to be very good value for money and the quality is excellent. I forgot you're using a petrol engine., I always go over all joints in fuselage and wing root area with aliphatic and epoxy. (going to try Superphatic next time) I also epoxy an exact size ply plate inside for undercarriage mount and use 5mm nylon bolts which can shear easily. I also replace the foam wheels with larger rubber ones. My models may be a few ounces heavier but they're virtually 'bullet proof' and bounce proof You've got a nice model there John, the red and silver is eye catching. Here's a vid if you haven't already seen it. The flap gap is visible at 2.20 and 2.35 https://youtu.be/XrR5Uu9AsQA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 I still think that they are supposed to be some sort of slotted flap and should drop away from the wing as they're lowered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted September 16, 2018 Author Share Posted September 16, 2018 I've butchered it now Ash, couldn't settle with it, found lite ply hard ish points in there, l/e is lite ply that's why I couldn't slot it with scalpel. Got thick balsa l/e now which I'll chamfer, then leaf and pin hinge, yep I like Seagull stuff myself, just this bit niggled me, yep I've some big balloon type wheels in draw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ASH. Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 That's good John, it's always worth taking the time and trouble to get things right, just the way you want it, My perfectionism really comes out in my model making. Part of the fun I suppose. I need to be 100% happy with it - even before it sees the outdoors. I hope the balloon wheels are not too big.. unless of course you plan landing on mountain tops! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted September 17, 2018 Author Share Posted September 17, 2018 Too late now Bob. 2 batteries and an ignition unit to go in fuzz, tail has some weight to it so want room up front, just in case. Will cut this tray back and create a space, flaps ready for gluing up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ASH. Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 Those flaps look huge John, you'll have great fun flying flying her low and slow. Cannot understand the added longer strip, doesn't look flush with the rest of it. It is a handsome looking model.. And it comes with aerofoil tail surfaces which is nice. I would be interested in one myself if I didn't have a high winger already (Toledo Special). Do paint the wood (black or grey) in front behind the canopy. A review that might interest you. http://www.rcuniverse.com/articles/review/seagull-models-funky-cub-10-15cc-arf/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted September 17, 2018 Author Share Posted September 17, 2018 I cut some off flap and added a balsa l/e Ash, show it tomorrow when I've planed it and fitted hinges. Cheers for the link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted September 18, 2018 Author Share Posted September 18, 2018 Hinged, shade more to take off, to get more movement, happier with it now, will be another hinge fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris larkins Posted September 18, 2018 Share Posted September 18, 2018 Nice looking model. As was mentioned elsewhere the large gap at the leading edge of the flap when it's dropped is actually supposed to be there, in fact it makes the flap more effective as it keeps the air flowing over it at high angles of attack, see pic below of a full size cub Edited By chris larkins on 18/09/2018 21:01:09 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted September 18, 2018 Author Share Posted September 18, 2018 I'll hinge it badly then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 Time to put stickers on this, not something I'm good at. Will the soapy water trick work with the plastic, very sticky type decals ? I always get creases or get em cockeyed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted March 26, 2020 Author Share Posted March 26, 2020 Yous not talking to me ? In bad books again ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted March 29, 2020 Author Share Posted March 29, 2020 Finished, balanced without lead, weighs a bit with 8 servos in, be a good choice when it's breezy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted March 30, 2020 Author Share Posted March 30, 2020 How the struts attach, one bolt to remove, slacken the others and struts fold flat to the wing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 Well Mondays the big day then, first flight, you nervous ? Nah, me neither. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted July 12, 2020 Author Share Posted July 12, 2020 Finally got it flown, a click of aileron all it needed, NGH 17 plenty good enough, 1/4 throttle has it tootling nicely, open it up n the aeros are nice n big. After me saying on another thread "I've never had an exhaust fall off" today it did, checked throttle cut n failsafe before I flew it, all good, half a dozen circuits in, off it comes, engine would not cut, tickover too quick to land it, fly it till it's empty then, 25 minutes later it lands like a pussy cat. First Impression of the engine is good, not too noisy with a wrap around pitts on, and very frugal on juice, silencer coming off Is down to me I think, never checked after running a few tanks through, and don't think I threadlocked it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Moyler Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 Looks good, pleased to hear that the first flight went well. JM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 Well done John, Glad to hear all went well despite the zorst moment. I have an NGH 10cc engine, I had trouble setting the throttle up to get a good usable range on the throttle stick. How did you get on ? D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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