RCM&E Dec 2018 - Ruckus Review Update

[Mike Freeman]

I've been enjoying flying the Max Thrust Ruckus since I wrote my review in the Summer and I've ironed out a few wrinkles I raised which I thought I would share....

The first thing I did was ditch the dead weight in the nose. I cut the two lumps of steel out with a long bladed knife - one of those with the break off sections.

That's 128.3g saved!! Next I made up a removable battery plate so my 3S 2200mAh packs could be pushed right forward. The plate simply slides into the slotted cheeks which are glued to the sides of the fuz. The plate is spaced off the bottom of the fuz so the ESC and Rx can be located underneath and the LiPo pack is kept well away from those protruding wing bolts! I scrapped the fiddly velcro straps but put a longer, double sided velcro strap through one set of slots so the battery and plate are still held firmly to the fuselage structure.

There isn't a lot of space for the extension leads - they were always getting in the way whilst swapping LiPo's so I cut a recess in the tops of the wings which, fortuitously, revealed a handy void to stuff the loose wires into. This is a none structural part of the wing so the models strength isn't compromised.

Finally, I added a pilot and made a set of carbon fibre u/c legs using the mould idea in my article in the 2015 RCM&E Autumn Special. I also added some wheel spats to keep the muck off the bottom of the wings.

Final all up weight with my 3S 2200 mAh pack on board = 1.64kg. That's 80g (2.8oz) lighter than the original.

Edited By Mike Freeman on 24/11/2018 14:45:50

[Geoff S]

The Ruckus is a close relative of the Riot (or Devil) and uses some of the same parts (I guess motor, esc, wing) so I'm not surprised about those lumps of steel. There's a lump of steel in the front of the Riot, too, which is best removed for more 'agile' performance.

I was seriously considering buying one as a bare airframe (I really like my Riot as a warm-up model for all flyable weather) and fit my own choice of servos, motor, esc etc. In the end I bought an ARTF Wot4 Mk2 for about the same money and used equipment I already had. I've not regretted it so far.

I do like your very neat battery installation mod as well as the carbon undercarriage. I always felt it looked very odd with the wheels so far in front of the wing's l/e. I think those legs are also from the Riot, too. It is surprising it doesn't have a tendency to ground loop. I think, like how a bicycle steers well, it's a mystery to most of us what makes ground handling work without drama.

Geoff

[Ray Pinchin]

Interesting mods. I like the idea of the recess in the wings but I am a bit reluctant to start hacking and damaging the wing. Could you give some dimentions of the cutout?

Incidently I have a RUCKUS and have found no problems with the undercarriage position. I also us a 4S 2200mAh LiPo with the supplied prop but set throttle endpoint on the transmitter to around 80% to limit the current.

[Mike Freeman]

Hi Ray,

Here are the dimensions of the recess in the wings. Just the left wing is shown, the right wing is mirror image.

Regarding the u/c, I also found the original worked fine, no hint of ground looping. I swapped it because I wanted to save some weight so I could add some wheel spats as the underside of the wings were getting covered in grass cuttings and mud!!

Hope this helps!

Cheers

Mike

[Chris Leggate]

Hi - got one for Christmas. I agree about the pilot so here.s my solution, although my granddaughter was a bit upset when she found the remains in the bin!

[Tim Ballinger]

Mike, u/c and spats look great. Did you make the spats as well?

Tim

[Mike Freeman]

Hi Tim,

The wheel spats were commercial items - I've been trying to remember where I got them from but have failed - sorry!

They are approx 150mm long x 45mm high x 35mm wide. The opening for the wheel is approx 60mm x 25mm.

Happy New Year All!

[jeffrey cottrell]

Hi Guys, could use a little help.
Here's the deal:
Treated myself to a Ruckus. Not exactly cheap at £159, but I've recently moved house and yet to get my building facilities set up, and I needed something quick.
Had three flights so far, and it's been a major disappointment.
I'm using a 3s 3000 pack with the front end hard against the bulkhead.First flight was like flying a blancmange. Very sloppy and unresponsive to the controls. i did manage a roll of sorts, but it was close to falling out the sky.
Sure sign of c/g too far forward.
So, scalpel please, nurse.
Out came the steel weights behind the cowl. (thanks Mike, for that tip)
Results were an improvement, but still had no 'sparkle' and roll rate was still slow.
Measured the c/g and it was just behind the forward point, 80mm, so there is scope to move it back a bit if you think that would help.
Meanwhile a couple of other issues have become apparent.
First is a lack of thrust. In any sort of headwind it needs almost full throttle to maintain any forward motion.
Second is at full throttle it wants to climb like a homesick angel.
So thrust.
The specs say it comes with a 12 x 6 prop. Mine came with an 11 x 5.5, but this was a specific electric prop, which I thought would make up for the smaller size by being more efficient. Doesn't seem so.
Quick root through my spare props I came up with 11 x 7 and 11 x 8.5, both APC, and a 12 x 6 Bone prop from HK.
Which would be my best choice?
As regards climbing under throttle, I am using FlySky gear, and the trims do move in tiny stages, but even then I had to have all available down trim and a touch of forward stick as well to get it to fly straight.
Could well be a c/g issue as well, or possibly thrustline. What's the best way to find out which?

Any thoughts?

Jeff

[Mike Freeman]

Hi Jeff,

Sorry to hear you are having troubles with your Ruckus.

I think your 3000mAh packs may be too heavy. I find the best CG location is 105mm back from the LE - a lot more than your 80mm!! I found a bit of differential on the ailerons helped the roll rate too. Here is the relevant bit from my review.....

Over the next few flights I tweaked the set up to suit a more aerobatic flying style. I swapped the Rx for a 6-channel version and assigned each wing servo to a separate channel so I could introduce a little differential. I finally settled on a CG location of 105mm from the leading edge (just behind the recommended maximum) and surface throws of:

Aileron 25mm up & 20mm down

Elevator 15mm each way

Rudder 35mm each way

With these settings and 20% expo dialled in I had the best of both worlds: Nice easy flying around neutral yet more exciting aerobatics with the sticks in the corners. All this and STILL that insanely slow flying speed is possible – amazing! The greater throws improved the aerobatic performance enormously with snappier rolls and super tight loops easily achieved.

The rearward CG makes the Ruckus almost pitch neutral which means it stays in a dive when the nose is pushed forward, there is just a gentle recovery to level flight when the sticks are released. Moving the CG any further back causes the Ruckus to stay in a dive or even tuck under which some may find disconcerting. Inverted flight requires only an occasional dab of forward pressure to hold level flight and inverted loops are no problem (as long as the LiPo pack is well strapped in!)

I recon you'd benefit from shifting the CG further back which should help reduce the power zoom you mention. I think I added a bit of down thrust and right thrust to mine after a while but I don't recall it being too far out out of the box.

Also, the 11x5.5 prop is more suitable for a 4S set up. A 3S pack needs a 12x6 for the best results.

I hope that helps and gets your Ruckus behaving properly. I'm still enjoying mine - a 3S 2200mAh pack and a 12x6 are just right for sports aerobatics - it won't quite climb vertical but does OK. Maybe the name makes us expect too much but, for a sports aerobatic Hack it does pretty well!

Cheers

Mike

[Frank Skilbeck]

Jeff, re the prop, yes an electric prop is more efficient, but that doesn't necessarily mean more thrust, just less amps to develop the same thrust.

A club mate got one of these as his first low winger and I test flew it for him, I thought it flew fine, but managed to lose the canopy when doing a bunt..............

[Ray Pinchin]

I've had around 80 flights with my Ruckus and am happy with the performance. Changed 3S for 4S 2200 which vastly improved the model's vertical performance. Used 6 channel Rx with aileron differential and expo. Increased the aileron throw for faster rolls and changed wheel bolts to 4mm. Canopy fell off doing bunt so added a pair of 10 x 2mm magnets,problem solved. Also added 1/5 scale pilot to the office. CG midway between points suggested in manual.

Ray

Edited By Ray Pinchin on 16/08/2019 11:03:14

[Capt Kremen]

As per my experiences, (see review section), the 'Ruckus' out-of-the-box is a BASIS for a general hack/sports model, as others have found. Quality of items as supplied, (U/C, axles, clevis, snakes, motor, ESC, prop, spinner, canopy retention and placement of these etc. etc.), can be very subjective and change a mediocre / 'duff'(?) model into a joy to own and fly. Like most, if not all ARTF, creations from the far east, IMHO they are made down-to-a-price, not necessarily up to the quality seasoned model builder/assemblers would prefer. Although much of the 'Ruckus' shares common parts with the 'Riot', I still find my 'Riot' the better of the two aircraft. Several 'Riots' have appeared in my club and are flown by a range of pilots, from relative inexperienced to 'hooligan/chuck it about' merchants! Each to their own. Enjoy!

[Shaun Walsh]

Fit a 3541-1070 motor from 4-max. I put one in my Riot it draws 37amps on a 12x6 and it will climb vertically on a 3s. Fits on original motor mount and is the correct dimensions for the cowl.

[jeffrey cottrell]

Hi Guys, thanks for your thoughts and ideas.

So far, I've switched to a 12 x 6 and wound up the aileron throws.Need to see how that goes before I try anything else.
If someone could arrange for a dry, calm day, that would be great.

Jeff

[Mike Freeman]

Hi Jeff

I was out flying my Ruckus this morning, trying to blow the canopy off like you and Frank have experienced. I tried bunts and dives and flick rolls all to no avail...... but good fun nonetheless!!

Just a thought..... did you add the extra air outlet hole as recommended by CenturyUK? See here

Cheers,

Mike

[jeffrey cottrell]

Hi Mike, thanks

My model must be later off the production line, because it already has those air vents behind the wing.
Also, I have yet to have the canopy blow off (chance would be a fine thing).
What I did notice while putting it together was the magnet fitted to the canopy had not been glued in properly. End result was the canopy would come off easily, leaving the magnet attached to the one in the fuz.
I re-fitted the magnet with a smear of epoxy and it's held fast so far.
My main feeling is frustration.
Just come back from a long drive to the field, only to find it was blowing a gale. Took 4 models with me and wouldn't risk flying any of them.
Ho hum.
Managed to get another scrape on the fuz, and at some stage I must have snagged one of the ailerons and broke the clevis.
So far I'm doing more damage getting it in and out of the car than I ever have flying it.
Not how it's supposed to be.
In with my kit there was a pack of spare clevises, look to be stronger than the originals.
Wonder whether Century know something we don't!
Still deciding whether to just fit a new one or change to all metal both sides.
Jury out on that one.
End result is I have not even been able to test with the new prop and aileron throws, let alone come to any conclusions as to what to do next.
Not sure where you fly, but if you could send some of your flying weather down my way, I would be grateful.
Also, thanks for the message about your original review.
I was hoping it would be on the forum somewhere. Seems I can't access RCM&E archives without a subscription which I don't have.
Anyway, no matter.

Cheers

Jeff

[Shaun Walsh]

So if the Riot is supposed to be a high wing trainer, the Ruckus is low wing and more aerobatic I look forward to a full blown 3d model from max thrust, they will probably call it the Kerfuffle or the Minor Altercation.

[jeffrey cottrell]

Hi Shaun

Right with you on that. Thinking of getting some vynils to change mine from Ruckus to Small Skirmish.

There are three Riots in my club and they all fly better, and are more aerobatic, than my Ruckus. Have to say I have only managed three flights with mine so far, so can't say it's fully developed, but I'm really not impressed.

Only good point to my abortive trip to the field earlier is this weekend is the Eastbourne air display. Sitting in the car I was treated to the Battle of Britain Memorial Flight doing a low pass across the field.

Six Merlins in formation, heaven.

Jeff

[Shaun Walsh]

Posted by jeffrey cottrell on 18/08/2019 16:51:51:

Hi Shaun

Right with you on that. Thinking of getting some vynils to change mine from Ruckus to Small Skirmish.

There are three Riots in my club and they all fly better, and are more aerobatic, than my Ruckus. Have to say I have only managed three flights with mine so far, so can't say it's fully developed, but I'm really not impressed.

Only good point to my abortive trip to the field earlier is this weekend is the Eastbourne air display. Sitting in the car I was treated to the Battle of Britain Memorial Flight doing a low pass across the field.

Six Merlins in formation, heaven.

Jeff

I must admit that I am quite pleased with the Riot, especially since I put the more powerful motor in it. Next thing I need to do is remove some or all of the steel nose weight to get it to do flatter spins, at the moment it spins in a very much nose down attitude and you need full rudder and aileron to get it to do much at all.

Edited By Shaun Walsh on 18/08/2019 17:12:43

[jeffrey cottrell]

Hi Guys

Oh dear, oh dear, seems the weather gods have decided the fate of my Ruckus.
So, wind relented a little. Still breezy but nowhere near the gales of recent days.
Out to the field for a play.Thrust was obviously better with the larger prop, and roll rate was improved though still not 'twinkly'.
Climb on full power was still there, as was a twitchiness in any sort of wind gusts. Almost impossible to fly a steady line.
Did a couple of loops and rolls, but mostly stooged around for a while. Tried a few test approaches which were not comfortable in the wind.
Finally got it set up in a straight approach, just about to touch down and a sudden gust caught one wing, flipped it on its side and cartwheeled into the rough grass.
Ouch.
Haven't checked everything yet, but most apparent was the fuz broke in half just in front of the leading edge.
Ho hum.
Electrics still working ok, and new fuz can be bought, but I'm inclined to leave it for the moment. Not sure it will ever be comfortable for me.
I know these incidents are part and parcel of what we do, but I wish I could have got more value from it before it went in.

We'll see

Jeff

[Mitchell Howard]

Hi all - resurrecting an old thread, hope that's OK. I'm getting bothered my LiPos are going to be too heavy, but...

 

I'm looking at the weight of that steel, both lumps weighing 128g combined.

 

My 4S 3700s weigh 304g and the recommended 4S 2200 typically weighs 220g.

 

Therefore, 304-(220+128)=44g lighter than manufacturer recommendation - does anybody else use these bigger packs?

[Jeffrey Cottrell 2]

Hi Mitchell

That is a resurrection. Last post August 2019. Look out for zombies

Anyway, for what it's worth, here's my take.

I think those weights were fitted because the original recommendation was for 3s 2200. Tried those and it flies like a wet dishrag. Anyway, like most I removed the weights and went to 4s.

As an aside, removing the weights does leave a big void just behind the cowl. I shaped a piece of balsa and glued it in there, just to return a little of the strength.

I currently fly a 2650 (256g) 4s pushed as far forward as the foam will allow. Didn't bother to check the c/g. Flies how I want it so why change?

My guess is your lighter set up will be a little tail heavy, but not by much. To be on the safe side I would add a little extra nose weight to get the c/g to the recommended position.

Wouldn't mind betting you take it off pretty quickly.

With my 2650 packs I get 7 minutes of aerobatics with enough left for a go-round if needed. That's all I need.

Hope this helps

Jeff

[Mitchell Howard]

Maidened yesterday! Within about 30s of being up with it in 10mph wind, I had a big smile on my face. First low winger for me, having only flown trainer and a larger STOL model - this feels connected and direct in a way the others don't. The CG was spot on as per the manual with the weights removed (filled with balsa) and the 3700 4S putting some weight back in. It comes in quickly (for me) but I got the hang of after the high lift models I've been flying. It induced enough confidence to do my first stall turns, and got some loops and rolls in for good measure!

 

Now to set about making some minor mods;

1. The clevises are crap and actually arrived with some split that I had to replace. Are these threads standard? How and what should I replace them with?
2. There is a raspy noise occasionally under high throttle - I notice the Gemfan prop is softer than the usual APC, could it be this running on the edge of its rev limit?
3. The prop spinner is out of balance, I think I'll lay my hands on one of those vented ones or just one with an ally backplate with interchangeable bushes.
4. Get flaperons set up to cut takeoff/landing speed. I already attempted this on my Radiolink AT10ii set. Setting trims was fine, but turning flaperons on and trying to set limits for travel messes up the trim and sometimes the direction of normal aileron operation. I daren't attempt to mix-in elevator. I think the end of the road for this radio is nigh.

Edited August 23, 2021 by Mitchell Howard

[Kim Taylor]

Hi Mitchell

 

I haven't got a Ruckus, but I believe that the Riot has identical bits & bobs, so to answer your questions:

1. The 'threads' on the control rods aren't a conventional thread at all (unless changed recently) they're more like a self tapping or Archimedes screw.

I can only suggest either taking the whole shooting match to your lms (if you have one) and match something up. Or someone may have already done this and be able to tell you what fits, or as a last resort, buy some from Century UK, who sell them as a spare part.

2. See 3. Assuming that you've already balanced the prop??

3. Yes, the spinner is horrid. Replace with something better and hopefully your rasping noise will magically disappear.

4. I'd be surprised if you can't do what you're asking with the AT10, but I can't offer any advise on set up - I did the same on my Riot using my Spektrum DX8g2 and it was a fiddle, but I got there in the end. Never use it, though!!

hth (a bit)

Kim

eta On my Riot, I'm using a c of g well behind the 'book' setting, which (with care) will allow you to slow the model down a bit more compared to a more nose heavy one. I don't know where you are with your c of g but I'd definitely be working at the back of the recommended range and beyond (only if you're comfortable, obvs, don't want to get the blame for you breaking it!!)

Edited August 23, 2021 by Kim Taylor
extra information

[Jeffrey Cottrell 2]

Congrats on the maiden. Good to hear it went well.
So, questions:
Sad to say the story with the clevises is too common. I generally throw them away before I even start.
Can't confirm how the rods are threaded, Kim may well be right on that one.
For some time now I have been using clevises from Modelfixings, here. Found them to be of excellent quality and still close with a snap, even after being opened a few times.
These are designed to self thread on to a 2mm thread, so I'm not too sure how secure they would be on your current rods.
I guess you want to keep the model in one piece, so can I suggest what I do now as a matter of course.
Along with the clevises, Modelfixings also sell studding (threaded rod) in 2mm here. I always keep some of this handy and make up my own bespoke rods.
Just need cutting to length and a clevis on each end.

 

 

If you wanted to go 'belt and braces' 2mm is also the thread for metal clevises like these. My Ruckus has plastic ones and they'll do fine.
Props
Probably a good guess that the bendy props are causing the rasping noise. Maybe a stiffer one might help. APC would be first choice, but Hobbyking do a range of APC lookalikes, called 'Bone' props and they are surprisingly good, here. Dirt cheap too.
Not sure what size you are using, but I have 10 x 5 on mine. Performs very well indeed.

 

 

I have a 40mm all alloy spinner on mine. Can't remember where I got it from, but it does have a collet adaptor built in to the backplate. That ain't going to run out of true. If you're interested, I could probably find who sells them.
Radio
Sorry, can't help with the flap set up, but probably asking the question in the Radio section on this forum, might get you some help.
Good luck
Jeff
P.S. 40mm might seem a bit small for the spinner, but it doesn't look out of place and leaves an open ring for cooling air to get in to the motor.
J