Fatscoleymo Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 As the title suggests. I have almost completed stripping back a HK Giant Stik that was covered in that self adhesive very brittle covering. Looked good but punctured extremely easily and had become 50% patches. I will recover in HK film which I am assured is good stuff.....but the adhesive residue left on all surfaces is very sticky. Can anybody offer any pointers as to what will best remove it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex nicol Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 It might be worth trying some Acetone, it's pretty good for removing most adhesives Cheers Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted November 13, 2019 Share Posted November 13, 2019 + 1 for Acetone . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Collins Posted November 13, 2019 Share Posted November 13, 2019 If acetone doesn't do it then try meths. Lots of these things are alcohol solvent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted November 13, 2019 Share Posted November 13, 2019 Also, rub the acetetone surface gently with a green scrubber faced washing up sponge. The glue gets picked up in the scrubber face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heather Posted November 23, 2019 Share Posted November 23, 2019 Acetone is always my last resort - and my general experience is if that won’t remove it than nothing will. I always test in increasing harshness along the lines of Kitchen surface or window cleaner Methylated Spirits Isopropyl Alcohol White Spirit Cellulose Thinners (Acetone) I leave the cellulose to the end because it is really harsh stuff. Atomises in the air quickly and stinks, harsh on the skin and can melt some materials. Always test on a small patch first before using cellulose. Cheers, Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edgeflyer Posted November 23, 2019 Share Posted November 23, 2019 One caviat: Agressive solvents can attack the glue joints. The glue is heat sensitive so a warm knife scrapes it off well. Be careful around any PVA joints with heat! Another trick is to iron the area with a tissue interposed to absorb the lumpy bits of glue. I would then iron on some scraps of film to see the effect. Because the heat sensitive glue flattens under your film iron it may well look fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted November 23, 2019 Share Posted November 23, 2019 Posted by Nigel Heather on 23/11/2019 07:38:11: Acetone is always my last resort - and my general experience is if that won’t remove it than nothing will. I always test in increasing harshness along the lines of Kitchen surface or window cleaner Methylated Spirits Isopropyl Alcohol White Spirit Cellulose Thinners (Acetone) I leave the cellulose to the end because it is really harsh stuff. Atomises in the air quickly and stinks, harsh on the skin and can melt some materials. Always test on a small patch first before using cellulose. Cheers, Nigel Is all so-called cellulose thinners acetone? I have always been somewhat confused (I know but I try!) with the various different paints and the variety of thinners and usually try for those that are water based partly because of the ease of brush cleaning. I've used acetone for thinning epoxy in the past but I was unaware that it and cellulose thinners were the same. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted November 23, 2019 Share Posted November 23, 2019 All sorts mixed into cellulose thinners depending on what you want it to do. Acetone is not that common as an ingredient. Look up some safety data sheets, they more or less tell you what has poisoned you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bert baker Posted November 23, 2019 Share Posted November 23, 2019 Would the residue glue not help rather than hinder especially if it were clear glue. I always recomend using Balsaloc,, wich in essence is where you are at now I used to use Acetone by the galon for cleaning up tools when I used to laminate lorry trailer floors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin b Posted November 23, 2019 Share Posted November 23, 2019 Acetone and cellulose thinners are totally different solvents, although they do have some similar properties. Either way you MUST ALWAYS work in a very well ventilated area when using these solvents and try to avoid skin contact with them as much as possible. Safety glasses are also a good idea in case of splashes. Finding solvent proof gloves might be a bit difficult as most disposable gloves melt in seconds ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted November 23, 2019 Share Posted November 23, 2019 Aren't the disposable gloves in petrol stations made of polythene. That is solvent proof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piers Bowlan Posted November 23, 2019 Share Posted November 23, 2019 I think celluose thinners is mainly Toluene (Methylbenzene). Petrol is usually pretty good at removing glue residue too but Toluene smells nicer (even if it can cause neurological damage). Best to do it outside if using petrol or Toluene. Acetone is not Toluene. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatscoleymo Posted November 23, 2019 Author Share Posted November 23, 2019 Got it all done using Isopropanol - Isopropyl Alcohol. Mind-numbingly tedious. What worked for me was using cotton sheet offcuts (donated willingly by swimbo) - apply solvent to one cloth and rub a small area, then use another clean cloth to remove residue. Repeat at least twice for each area then move on. Change both cloths frequently as they both pick up glue and redistribute it...…. Then go back over everything, check and do 50% again.... Bert - It's no good leaving the residue on as it is too tacky to apply film over - the film would stick to areas in 'the middle' before it had been shrunk. Presently finishing off the addition of flaps, then will be ready to recover. Fats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wills 2 Posted November 23, 2019 Share Posted November 23, 2019 When I recovered my HK stick I left the glue on. Easiest and most secure covering job I ever did, film tacked to it and softened with the heat letting the film slide and shrink perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatscoleymo Posted November 23, 2019 Author Share Posted November 23, 2019 Posted by Richard Wills 2 on 23/11/2019 16:25:59: When I recovered my HK stick I left the glue on. Easiest and most secure covering job I ever did, film tacked to it and softened with the heat letting the film slide and shrink perfectly. Now you tell me!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wills 2 Posted November 23, 2019 Share Posted November 23, 2019 looks like I was the thread just too late. I initially was going to remove it all, but lost motivation quickly and just went for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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