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JB Weld


cymaz
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I’m building a weather vane ( can’t say cock any more.....someone will get offended).

I want to glue two copper tubes , one inside the other. I thought about brazing but as they won’t be subject to any temperature or stress I thought it might be easier with JB Weld.

Good idea or no?

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I should mention that I used the high heat putty that you cut off what you need from a ' sausage'. Massively strong, I 'welded' a length of aluminium tube to a flat plate as a test piece. The tube broke before the joint when I tested it. The putty does soften with hand heat as you work it. A bit stiffer than glazing putty, but easy to work into a fillet.

Edited By Cuban8 on 17/11/2019 17:56:48

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JB weld is basically (as far as I can tell) epoxy thickened with powdered metal.

It is very stiff once mixed although like any epoxy, temperature makes it both more runny and faster setting.

I would use solder for this as if you get the pipe warm enough and it's a good enough fit it should flow up the gap ( plumber's torch etc.)

If you happen to know a plumber who is amenable, it might even be worth asking them to do the job as you'll only get one shot at it.

 

One downside of solder is that if this is going to be outdoors (and that would seem a very good idea for a weather vane) you'll likely get some corrosion around the joint .

Edited By will -0 on 17/11/2019 18:27:08

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I'm sure JB Weld would do the job very well. It does take at least a day to set properly in my experience but, if you're not in a hurry it really is good stuff. Moreover it's readily available in car spares shops and there are several within 3 miles walking distance for me.

Many years ago I made a Heathkit anemometer and wind direction indicator for the dinghy racing club where we sailed. The display was in the clubroom/bar and was a subject of fascinatíon, especially if the wind's strength made sailing either very difficult or suicidal depending on how brave you were. At least Kingsmill hospital, which made the wind a little unpredictable due to its proximity was handy if a trip to A&E became necessary

Geoff

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Posted by Don Fry on 17/11/2019 19:01:26:

Lads, for this job, superglue, or even Boss White, will do until Cymas shuffles off this mortal coil. What's easy, in stock?

Mrs C will judge

a. neat

b. does not fall apart.

Cheers Don but I’m not that old ! There’s plenty of years left in the old dog yet ! dog laugh

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Posted by Malcolm Fisher on 17/11/2019 20:22:08:

Cymaz,

Solder would be my preferred option, but failing that I would use Milliput epoxy putty. It sets under water which can be an advantage sometimes.

Malcolm

Edited By Malcolm Fisher on 17/11/2019 20:23:22

Thanks, will look that up yes

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Milliput is not an adhesive and the slightly different newer formula is even less adhesive (except on your hands). Believe me I make whole model cars from it. I'm on my 7th pack this year. I know Milli.

JBWeld, however, is massively strong and very workable. I know racing car restorers who use it where no other repair has done the job. Engine blocks and even cylinder heads repaired with it . ON RACING CARS!!!

If you can't heat the joint enough for solder, then JBWeld is the answer. I was using it just this evening to glue brass to plastic where there was no room for even a small screw.

BTW, solder won't corrode. It's uncleaned flux that corrodes. My Dad was a proper craftsman plumber and would solder zinc and lead flat roofs, using a half pint blowlamp, a stick of tinman's solder and a tallow pad, but was always very careful to clean the joint thoroughly.

Martin

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Just make sure you mix the Hell out of it and when you think you're done, mix it some more! Like all epoxies in fact, but that's the only safety measure for getting a great result. The beauty of one black one white resin is that mixing means a nice even grey is your best guide.

Best of luck.

Martin

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JB weld will work just remember to mix accurately and well and where you want it stuck lightly key the surface and make sure it grease and dust free.

used it a lot on that Hanriot of mine cabines and undercarriage parts takes a week in a warm place to competly cure to full strength ( ie 90 odd percent on a day rest over a few days

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