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Warbirds Replicas P51 Mustang


RICHARD WILLS

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11 minutes ago, RICHARD WILLS said:

I like that drawing Ron , its like one of those subliminal tests to access your mental stability .

I can see a small herd of Buffalo running through a fairground chased by a giant pink mouse on the back of an elephant . 

I guess everyone else can see the same ?

Yes Richard, yes I can...

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK trying to crack on. With the build. Made a long list of jobs with page numbers of pics on the forums... aiming for Christmas... just got the elevator wire fitted and sanded to shape.  

Will post a pic tomorrow  for those up for a bit of a laugh.  

Anyway the job list has generated a list of things I am unsure about. And beg for your collective wisdom. 

 

  1.  I am assuming I should pin the elevator and rudder like I did the flaps etc.
  2. What is the best location for the rudder and elevator servos is it Paul's revised location? 
  3. What is the best way to cut the canopy so it fits nicely round the curved surface
  4. Anybody know where I can get a cross mount for the fms motors,  I have asked Richard but failing that any good ideas
  5. Help with sanding, I am not very good nothing is even or the same shape any advise? 

 

OK now I will breath and wait the collective knowledge ???

 

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What length of permagrit block? if your'e sanding leading edge etc it is better to invest in one of their long blocks.

Sand along the whole edge in one movement rather than little chunks. this should help to keep it even. Don't press down too hard.

Sanding should only be done to remove high spots or removing small amounts of material.

If your shaping the leading edge for example,  I would firstly mark along  the centre of the l/e.

Use a razor plane to do the rough shaping and only use the sanding block for the final smoothing.

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Johnathon,

 

See we are all different and do things in different ways.

 

I too use long permagrit blocks as well as a drill sanding pad. I use the coarse side of the block to rough shape leading & trailing edges and block work. I use it cross grain with little pressure to take away the excess pretty quickly. Then I smooth the rough sanded shape with the fine side of the permagrit block this time along the grain to smooth the bumps out and get a uniform level. For a leading edge, I mark a centre line, rough shape as above then create the curve using the sanding pad held in my hand very gently with some 120 grade paper on it.  Sadly I have never managed to get along with a razor plane.

 

Good luck, it will come to you like everything else with a bit of practice

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Andy,Graham,

Thanks for your help, I do have the long one but I find it a bit awkward to use, but I will give it another try.  Good idea on marking the centre line I tried this on the elevators and it did help.

 

 

Any advise on the items below. 

  1. What is the best location for the rudder and elevator servos is it Paul's revised location? 
  2. What is the best way to cut the canopy so it fits nicely round the curved surface
  3. Anybody know where I can get a cross mount for the fms motors,  I have asked Richard but failing that any good ideas

thank you all again.

Jon

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Sorry Johnathon, I don't have the Mustang so I can't help with servo positions.

 

The canopy on my Spitfire I cut out roughly with a Dremel type cutting disc, then used a sanding / grinding attachment to make the final adjustments. I kept the protective plastic on as long as possible to try and stop it getting scratched - seems to have worked.

 

Cross mounts - depends on your skills. You could buy some aluminium and make your own otherwise measure the hole spacing and match it with another motor. The holes are not normally the same distance apart on the diagonals so you will nee to measure both directions. FMS may actually have the dimensions of the cross piece in the manual or on line. 

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On 01/04/2021 at 12:19, alan p said:

Any one with the Predator 580Kv motor , the motor mount  is available from Wheelspin Models

Part No  FMSDJOO4 Motor Mount (1.4P51/BF109/F4U/FW190/EXTRA/SBAC/YAK/EDGE

Digital code 5 055323 991417. Delivery was only 2 days std post.

 

Made one myself using 3mm thick Alu plate, then they became available so purchased one to compare. Mine was cheaper as it just required my effort.?

 

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Jonathan , 

                I had a batch of X mounts made a while back so will send you one when I post the decals.

 

On another note it was great to meet some of the gang at Wings and Wheels on Saturday . 

Glynn , Paul Johnson , Graham Davies (of Tempest fame ) and the wise guru, Professor Von Drake (our very own Eric )all showed up .

Eric won the longest distance award by a multiple of ten . The other slackers didnt leave their own county ....

Nobody bought much . Dont know what that means .?

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29 minutes ago, RICHARD WILLS said:

Jonathan , 

                I had a batch of X mounts made a while back so will send you one when I post the decals.

 

On another note it was great to meet some of the gang at Wings and Wheels on Saturday . 

Glynn , Paul Johnson , Graham Davies (of Tempest fame ) and the wise guru, Professor Von Drake (our very own Eric )all showed up .

Eric won the longest distance award by a multiple of ten . The other slackers didnt leave their own county ....

Nobody bought much . Dont know what that means .?

I'm sorry that I missed you all. I had planned to be there, but then a family commitment got in the way.

I have the feeling that Richard was all dressed in Pink. He thinks that the colour makes him inconspicuous. Was his Spitfire also pink?

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Pink is a calming colour so I wouldn't go "How Much" when the prices were double what I thought they should be.

Plus they were cheap at Primark, I now know why. I'm going to repaint the Spitfire now.

Edited by Martin Harris - Moderator
Removed comment using asterisks to mask word (please see forum Code of Conduct)
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I’m basing my model on Bill Anders’s P51D Val-Halla, using a very nice decal set provided by Callie graphics. I’ve worked out where everything goes except for a couple of ‘N151AF’ stickers (model or serial number perhaps?)

 

Any ideas?

 

Trevor

 

5EB0445A-4344-465B-8FFB-C33D82CD505F.jpeg

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Point taken Tim, but this is a scheme dreamt up by the aircraft’s owner. Here’s his take on how it came about: “When I was in Iceland, which is Viking country, my call sign was ‘Viking.’ Valhalla is Viking heaven,” he said. “I had told my wife I was going to name the airplane Venomous Valerie, but she didn’t go for that. So, we called it Val-halla. We dedicated the aircraft to the 57th Fighter Interceptor Squadron that had been stationed in Iceland until recently.”

 

As you know, I don’t do battle-weary warbird schemes so I’m quite happy to go with the present day, highly polished, museum version, FAA registration and all!

 

I’ve now been directed to a picture that shows the registration number positioned under the tailplane (an area that’s in deep shadow in all the pics I’d previously looked at) so the stickers are now in place. Canopy trim next. . . . .

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Val-Halla was raced at Reno but if I was claiming to be doing that version I’d have to add the race number. Incidentally, it looks like mine is going to weigh in at around 6lb 6oz with a 3300mah 4s battery. Does that sound about right?

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