alan p Posted May 12, 2021 Share Posted May 12, 2021 Thanks Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan p Posted May 14, 2021 Share Posted May 14, 2021 Paul Sorry to trouble you again connectors on the motor are 3.5, a 70amp ESC are 4mm which are the prefered ones to change. Beginning to wish I stuck with i/c? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted May 14, 2021 Share Posted May 14, 2021 Generally, I’d change the connectors on the ESC. It doesn’t really matter but sometimes the wires from the motor can be trickier to solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted May 14, 2021 Share Posted May 14, 2021 Either will do it, make sure you use a hot iron otherwise you will find it will take a long time and the heat transfers up the wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan p Posted May 14, 2021 Share Posted May 14, 2021 Thank you chaps, my 100w iron should suffice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted May 15, 2021 Share Posted May 15, 2021 Has anyone got any pics of how Glyn’s splendid seat actually fits into the cockpit? In order to get the seat and pilot into a position where the canopy (P51d version in my case) can fit, and the pilot stands a chance of seeing the instrument panel, it seems that the horizontal crutch will need to be cut away to drop the seat down somewhat - either that or take a hacksaw to the seat, which I’m loath to do. TIA Trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil McCavity Posted May 15, 2021 Share Posted May 15, 2021 Page 33 may give some direction? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted May 16, 2021 Share Posted May 16, 2021 Thanks Phil (and Paul!). It looks like Paul might have cut the seat down a bit. Meanwhile, my P51d has had its final naked photoshoot: The cockpit and gear doors still need some work, then I'm at the stage sometimes quaintly known as 'preparing the airframe for covering' which I think translates as "get out the filler and try to make good all the mistakes"! 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted May 16, 2021 Share Posted May 16, 2021 OMG! put some clothes on it.... what will the neighbours say! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Gates Posted May 16, 2021 Share Posted May 16, 2021 On 14/05/2021 at 16:33, alan p said: Paul Sorry to trouble you again connectors on the motor are 3.5, a 70amp ESC are 4mm which are the prefered ones to change. Beginning to wish I stuck with i/c? Don't touch the motor connectors! The wires from the motor which go into the connectors are covered in a insulating varnish which you will not be able to fully remove if you cut the connectors off. You could de-solder and resolder but I would just change the ESC ones as Trevor said. Looking great as usual Trevor, can't wait to see it. My WR Spitfire is now at the point of painting - my first attempt with airbrushing so it should be interesting..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan p Posted May 16, 2021 Share Posted May 16, 2021 Thankyou Andy wasn't aware the motor leads were varnished.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 Getting there... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 Going to sheet the sides this week. Does anybody know where the fuselage spine goes on the B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 Again look at the plan Jon. The spine is the backbone along the top of the rear fuselage, the spine is shown in dotted lines that are scallops taken out to reduce weight. Looking at the piece you have the top will have to be shaped also. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted May 18, 2021 Share Posted May 18, 2021 Eric, again thanks. I keep forgetting to use that as a reference. Couple of quick ones. With the side skins what is the advantage of joining them all together as Paul did or doing it as Richard did in the instructions and leave the tail bit until later. Also from what I can see some B's have a rounded back some a square. What's the thoughts of the B builders on what shape and how to achieve it. Thanks Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon McConnell Posted May 21, 2021 Share Posted May 21, 2021 Hi Jon, l did it as Paul suggests. It has the advantage that you can lay the parts flat and true on the building board before gluing them together. The rear fuselage is very flexible without the fuselage sides fitted so having the sides complete for assembly makes it easier to true up the fuselage exactly before clamping it up. I am doing a D model so can’t help you on the B model profile. Good luck 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon McConnell Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 Jon, I should also have said that you can lay the Kraft and right sides over each other to make them identical in profile. This helps get the tail end aligned perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon McConnell Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 Jon, I should also have said that you can lay the left and right sides over each other to make them identical in profile. This helps get the tail end aligned perfectly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted May 24, 2021 Share Posted May 24, 2021 Hi, typical I just read your post Gordon after I glued the profiles together last night. I am waiting on a clamp delivery (always need more clamps) before I start gluing it all together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted May 24, 2021 Share Posted May 24, 2021 But I lined them up and they match almost to the mm so, thanks to Richard even an Idiot like me cannot mess it up. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graeme Poke Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 A question if I may on paper covering. I have applied grease proof paper to my Sparrowhawk fuse. Went on well looks good. As per Richard's instructions I should now use non shrinking dope. I can get dope but not non-shrinking. Any alternative suggestions please. Thanks Graeme Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 I used greaseproof a lot. Didn't need dope, very lightly key with fine scotch brite and undercoat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Davies 3 Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 Graeme, sanding sealer is pretty much the same. If you want a nice tough surface, that'll work. Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillyg1 Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 Graeme, i use the same, normal shrinking dope, add some banana oil with it , this take out/ reduces the shrinking effect, then thin down abit with cellulose thinners, job done. Not many people are aware off this , method as used by Brian Taylor.? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graeme Poke Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 Thank you all. Gee, I don't know banana oil or where to get it. Sanding sealer from my local hardware store is turps based. Not too sure about that. They didn't have water based. Might try online. A friend suggested I try Deluxe EZE coat. However, I'll give Paul's suggestion a try first. Again a big thank you to everyone. This is a terrific forum. Ask and you receive. Graeme Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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