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JB Aviation DH71 Tiger Moth


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What caused the misalignment of the jig? Was one of the members the wrong way up? It looks that way in the photo but they can be deceptive...

I'm asking as my friend who supplied the plans built his first one with an unexplained twist (as mentioned earlier in this thread) and this might explain the mystery of the considerably warped jig built wing if he missed the misalignment possibility. I never saw the jig but this may explain what happened!

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Hi Martin,

I tried several times dry fitting and it was the only way it would go together. In the end, I gave some thought at first I thought wash-out but then on turning it over it was wash-in, so I crossed my fingers and cut the joint to fit.

The first panel has come out straight but the proof will be on the maiden.

Regards

Robert

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Hi All,

Again a relatively quiet week, the wings are joined and sheeted.

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Wings joined and false leading edges fitted

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Bottom and top sheeting done and u/c blocks fitted and centre section sheeted has also been done.

Next is to trim the sheeting back to the false leading edges and add the leading edges along with the wing tips and caps strips.

that's all for now

Regards

Robert

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Hi All,

The wings are now completed all bar hinging the ailerons.

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Cap strips done to both top and bottom of the wing

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with a small amount of sanding adjustment the wings fitted the fuselage,
I checked the wingtip to rudder post, spot on, that does not happen very often

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I really like the look of this model

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The wing fairing done, note the greaseproof paper to prevent it sticking to the wing.

Next, add triangle stock to the inside and sand to bend in. Then onto the metalwork and make the undercarriage.

That's all for now

Regards

Robert

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Hi All,

A little bit more progress this week.

dsc08420a.jpg

The kit even came with a jig for making the undercarriage

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As well as the copper wire

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with the undercarriage made I just had to assemble the model

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She looks good

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from any angle

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the fairings need a bit more sanding

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This is the first time I have used a split pin for wheel retention and it will not be the last, the split pin head will be used to attach the rigging wires.

Well it looks like the end is in sight, I have ordered the coverings today with only two aircraft built and a replica there are few choices in colour scheme

Next, sanding, sanding, and more sanding then covering.

That's all for now

Regards

Robert

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I've used that method of wheel retention a lot. It was first suggested in the instructions for the Flair SE5a I built over 20 years ago and I've just electrified as my dark nights refurbishment project. It really is neat and more importantly very secure. Wheel collets can come loose and landing wiuth one wheel is a bit tricky

Good idea to use the split pin eye to fix the rigging wire.

Geoff

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Thank you for all of your comments.

Having been just placed the orders for the covering and servos I'm hoping with fingers crossed that they will arrive before Xmas but I know the postal system is usually very busy this time of year anyway and even busier this year.

If building/covering comes to a halt I can, of course, start to ponder my next build something that will take longer to build. I have been quite surprised by how quickly this model came together and looking forward to flying her.

Regards

Robert

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Hi All,

I hope you all had as good a Christmas as you could with the restrictions put upon us and all for good reason.

I have just about gone as far as I can go now until the postman brings my covering materials, I left it a little too near Christmas when ordering.

All of the flying surfaces have been hinged and pinned and all servos fitted

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I like to pin the hinges before covering and then attach them to the airframe with a strip of covering on the face of the trailing edge.

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Standard servos just dropped straight in, with the receiver to the side

This is as far as I can go until the postman gets here.

At this point I usually throw away this lot

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Just snap it all up and put it in the bin, but with a balsa shortage and doing a little for the environment I turned this into this

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It's not a huge amount but it free, plenty of 3mm and 6mm ply pieces

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18 pieces mostly full length with the rest at half length or so, ready to go in my balsa box.

That's all for now

In the meantime, I'll carry one with a Mustang that I started just before this one, that said after sanding down and another coat it needs to be sprayed and for me, that is an outdoor job so needs to be a little warmer.

As a by the way, I bought a Force 46 engine to see what they were like for some reason, I thought they were British made but no Chinese still looks OK though, anyone tried one???

Regards

Robert

Edited By Robert Parker on 28/12/2020 17:44:04

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All,

Well, the postman delivered the Oratex. I opted to not go for the yellow black scheme as the decals provided were for "RV" and not "QU".

dh 71b.jpg

At first, I was not taken by it after only doing the antique and thought should I paint it as it is quite translucent and showing the balsa structure of the wing. However, now the model is completed I think it looks very smart and the translucent wing adds to the 1920's look. The Oratex went on like a dream even better than Solartex and it is one of the best coverings I have done for some time.

Once the covering was done it was time to do the finishing touches, the pilot has been on the shelf for years waiting for her moment and after a quick diet, she was in the office and looking quite the part. Rigging wires were next followed by the instrument panel and cockpit framing, the only part missing from the kit which I made from 1/64th ply and made the windows from a plastic lid from a cracker box. All control horns fitted and the tank fitted and plumbed as well.

Here are a couple of photos, until I get the time and weather to take some decent outdoor shots of her and one day a few flying shots.

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I decided not to add the rigging wire between the wheels as it would probably catch on the grass at our patch

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That's all for now but I'll leave you with the thought that for my next build I'm seriously thinking about a stablemate for my Short Stirling, a Tony Nijhuis Short Sunderland, a kit I have had for several years and one I hope it will take me a few months to build as I'm starting to run out of hanger space.

Regards

Robert

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Thank you all for your comments.

Geoff & Dale, there is a plan on Outzone at 50" and Sarik has a 54" plan.

I have a book by Kelvin Shacklock, Aircraft workshop: Learn to make models that fly which has a quarter-scale DH71 plan in it with a span of 67" for a 70 fourstroke, but I have tried to search for the plan but no luck. I understand the plans were available through Traplet but they have gone but Sarik are not listing it.

Regards

Robert

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Interesting. I had a look at the one at Sarik (quite hard to find as the search function is useless) and it's a Chris Gold design using the same Axi motor I'm fitting in my Li'l Cub (2820-12). So I've bought a copy. The main problem will be acquiring the wood but, hopefully, by the time I actually start the build the balsa shortage will be over.

The scheme is one of my favourites, too - yellow and black like my Gypsy Moth

Geoff

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Hi All,

Thought I'd make use of the early morning sunshine and took a few photos

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The office

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A look back to 1927

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I had intended to fit a new OS 52 up front but during the course of the build my used OS 52 became available if you know what i mean

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rigging attachment loops over metal "L"s

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Lower rigging threaded through the eye of the split pin

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the rigging wires (elastic) threaded through off cuts of snake inners through the cowl

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Just have to wait for the maiden

Regards

Robert

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Looks really good. I can definitely see my building the Chris Golds 54"ws version after seeing your build. It's designed for electric power so I won't need to convert it and I've ordered the drawings from Sarik. The main problem will be acquiring the wood

I'm sure yours will fly as well as it looks.

Geoff

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