EarlyBird Posted November 13, 2021 Author Share Posted November 13, 2021 I had my first flight last week having taken advice to go for very low rates I had no problems. This is now my winter hack as it fits in the car built up and so will always be on hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted April 15, 2022 Author Share Posted April 15, 2022 More flights last week. This flies so well, it has to be my best ever, a total surprise to me considering the size of the control surfaces. Even on high rates there are no problems. On reduced rates it's very easy to control, reminds me of a trainer. Enjoying this so much thanks for the design Peter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 16, 2022 Share Posted April 16, 2022 Fun Fly models are great!!! This is my Aerobic senior. About 30" span. Only a 3S 450 Mah battery and I usually flatten it. I must finish the plan and article some time but I am completely burnt out design wise at the moment. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted April 22, 2022 Author Share Posted April 22, 2022 9 hours ago, Denis Watkins said: In truth, we are only on our undercarriage a few seconds Steve But those lightweight solid foam wheels on single wire, will do you no favours on landing on the hard stuff. Any softer, pneumatic type tyred wheel will help you. Brilliant build BTW. Thanks Denis ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Billinge Posted April 25, 2022 Share Posted April 25, 2022 You have inspired me and so I just ordered the plan and the wood pack from Sarik Hobbies. I've had a few "Stick" type models and this looks like great fun. Wish me luck! Keith B 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted April 25, 2022 Author Share Posted April 25, 2022 2 hours ago, Keith Billinge said: Wish me luck! Good luck Keith I will follow with interest. If you need help just ask. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Billinge Posted June 1, 2022 Share Posted June 1, 2022 (edited) I have my Short kit and after a trip to Balsa Cabin I also have the strip wood for the wing. Also I have decided to do the mod that you did to lengthen the nose for the electric version. I'm going with a nice round 35mm (Not 32mm like you lot).... I figured 35mm will give me a bit more wiggle room for battery size and CG. Edited June 1, 2022 by Keith Billinge Very Old and forgetful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted June 1, 2022 Author Share Posted June 1, 2022 3 minutes ago, Keith Billinge said: I'm going with a nice round 35mm (Not 32mm like you lot).... ? A bit more space for the battery will do no harm. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Billinge Posted June 3, 2022 Share Posted June 3, 2022 Sorted out most of the fuse today and gave it a nice thick "Trebler". Also fitted a strong Ply Block for my Dural undercart! Didn't come out too bad.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin b Posted June 3, 2022 Share Posted June 3, 2022 On 07/12/2020 at 14:25, EarlyBird said: Sewn hinges? I will have to go buy some needle and thread also I should have listened to my mum when she tried to teach me to sew. When I was at school girls did the sewing and the boys woodwork. How things have changed for the better. Steve As far as I am aware these days neither of them do either. Health and safety, and all that. That's why we have trouble finding young tradesmen (and women) (who speak English). So much for the better. Mind you back in the 1960's the lads thought woodwork useful for getting their pocket knives sharpened properly and the girls found knitting useful when they got pregnant. At least they all learnt something at school ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Billinge Posted June 5, 2022 Share Posted June 5, 2022 I will be using mylar hinges and I'm toying with changing the method of construction for the tail feathers and ailerons. I'm not a fan of the stick construction method. I always break those in the hangar or getting suff in and out the car. So, I might just do flat balsa surfaces with cross grain ends and nice big drilled holes for lightness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted June 5, 2022 Share Posted June 5, 2022 Try foamboard with some 3/16 balsa around the edge. Quick, easy, light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted June 6, 2022 Share Posted June 6, 2022 Just make sure that you don't get any flutter in the tail. DO NOT USE FULL POWER IN STRAIGHT AND LEVEL FLIGHT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Billinge Posted June 6, 2022 Share Posted June 6, 2022 Did a bit of wing-age today! The laser cutting is very good and I managed to find some nice straight spars. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted June 7, 2022 Author Share Posted June 7, 2022 On 05/06/2022 at 13:04, Keith Billinge said: I'm not a fan of the stick construction method. I always break those in the hangar or getting suff in and out the car. I appreciate your issue as I am the same. Adding tail weight will not be a problem with this model. I used hard balsa sticks for strength and on completion a 2200 3S battery balanced perfectly but only giving a five minute flight time. I am thinking of using a 3200 3S battery which will mean adding lead to the tail. I am thinking now that I should have made the tail feathers stronger and maybe even solid. More to think about, sorry. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted June 7, 2022 Share Posted June 7, 2022 THe tail was always pretty light. The trouble was the huge control surfaces. One could use mass balances which will cure flutter. by moving the control surface balance point to close to the hinge. I remember the efforts they had to add lead to the nose of Twin Pioneer elevators to get the CG further forward in Aden. But then we had a blinking nightmare with modifying those things in Aden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Billinge Posted June 8, 2022 Share Posted June 8, 2022 Hmmmmmmm?....... Now I'm really wondering whether to stick to the original plans for the elevator and ailerons. My plan for this model is for it to be aerobatic, but I'm not interested in 3D and all that prophanging stuff. I'd like it to ba a long lasting fun model with forgiving characteristics. I've found that wings with this style fat section will slow down nicely when you ease off the coals and wont get away from me, a pilot with somewhat limited experience. Not sure I want a model that will flutter it's surfaces; that sounds scary! Cheers Keith B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted June 8, 2022 Author Share Posted June 8, 2022 17 minutes ago, Keith Billinge said: Not sure I want a model that will flutter it's surfaces; that sounds scary! Yes it scared me so I took advice from an aerobatic pilot who demonstrated by doing the maiden. Throws are very low rates and will still do tight loops and quick rolls. Full power straight and level gave no huge increase in speed and no sign of flutter. Yes ease off and it slows down very much like a trainer. Strengthening the control surfaces by using hard balsa and increasing the size of the spars will not cause any balance issues, and could help if using a battery larger than 2200 3S. Reducing the size of the control surfaces will not cause a problem just increase the throws, marginally. The only reason I left the surfaces as designed was because I liked the look. Now I find it a dream to fly. I have only been flying for four years, we can forget two of those, one day I hope to do a roll. So even with my lack of skill it is a dream to fly. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh McCaber Posted June 8, 2022 Share Posted June 8, 2022 Can anyone remind me which magazine the Swizzle Sick article was in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted June 8, 2022 Author Share Posted June 8, 2022 10 minutes ago, Tosh McCaber said: Can anyone remind me which magazine the Swizzle Sick article was in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Billinge Posted June 8, 2022 Share Posted June 8, 2022 The article was in RC Model World in November 2010. I got the wood pack and plans (They call it a short kit) from Sarik Hobbies and they sent a copy of the article too. LINK HERE Cheers KB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Billinge Posted June 8, 2022 Share Posted June 8, 2022 EarlyBird or Peter What servos do you use in yours? I have some 12Gram Digital Metal Geared servos but think they might be a bit small? I also have some slightly larger servos in a disused/crashed airframe. Cheers Keith B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted June 8, 2022 Author Share Posted June 8, 2022 I used Corona servos because I had them from a crashed airframe. 4-Max recommends these 4M-100AMG-022 10g Micro 2.2Kg/2.5Kg pull Analog Metal Geared Metal Servo from £4.94 each from 4-Max for the S-9 Chaos which is bigger and equally aerobatic. I would think your 12g DMGs would be fine. Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted June 8, 2022 Share Posted June 8, 2022 In the days when I built Swizzle Sticki used Hitec small servos. I would not like to comment on using micro servos if you areplanning to use the full throws but I would expect the 2.5 Kg servos to be OK.I use that sort of servo on just about everything these days. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Billinge Posted June 13, 2022 Share Posted June 13, 2022 Bit more progress today. Finished the wing and wing seat. Just got to do the empenage and the ailerons now. Deliberately leaving the sheeting on the fuse until Im ready to fix the snakes and tail fixing. I am toying with either a dowel or a long tab through the fuse to secure the vertical stabiliser in place. You may be able to see my normal motor mount method; complete with rubber shock absorbing washers/standoffs that quiet down noisy models. In my spares box I have two motors which may be suitable a 3536-1000kv (runs a 9 or 10 inch prop) or a 3536-1250kv (10 or 11 inch prop). Anyone know if these will be suitable? Best Wishes Keith B 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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