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S1581 Hawker Nimrod MkI


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To get the top wing in alignment right across from tip to tip I needed to rig the model and tension the wires, good excuse to see it in its entirety for the first time now in paint.

I will run tape across all the panels to ensure everything is true, before spraying the white, then black checker-board across the top.

Its an interesting fact that the colour should probably have been plain silver and black checker-board. But if Guy's aircraft is wrong (I doubt) then so is mine.

Good excuse for some motivational shots for those still plugging away at theirs smile p

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Cheers

Danny

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Well on the way now Danny, Have you sorted the gun sight yet? I have made mine with brass tube and 0.7mm wire it is painted and when dry I am going to fit the one nearest the cockpit in to a plastic tube and the front one just a push fit through the litho. and balsa. At this point I am going to paint the squadron markings before I reassemble it and hope it looks half as good as yours.

Cheers Eric.

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Thanks Ron, really appreciate the kind comment

Hi Martyn, I think I have shown my secret before, I have a large free standing fan, and I let the fan suck a circle of the paint booth filter material. I turn the fan up full whenever I am sanding or painting, it works surprisingly well.

I do still have to run round with the hoover once every six months

Eric, I like your idea of the mounting for the Aldis sight and will copy if that's okay? Looking forward to seeing yours with sqdn markings

Thanks all for the kind comments, they do mean a lot

Would be nice to get these and the Chipmunks together when the world is back on its axis.......

Cheers

Danny

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Hi Danny you can copy what you like of mine, I copied your exhausts. Not quite as neat as yours but better than holes. I have stuck a piece of 1/4 "sq. balsa in the cockpit where the wire for the gun site comes through and drilled it 0.7mm now I will have to accurately position the front one from underneath as I can't drill it from the top with the wing in place.

Cheers Eric.

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Thanks Eric, sounds fun, would it have been better to drill the front first?

Anyway I have been playing with decals this evening, should have been very easy, but a change of printer has meant that my once waterproof ink is now not. I printed a lovely set only to watch them dissolve when placed in water.

A rummage of the cupboards came up with a few clears, in the end I fired up the airbrush and blew a coat of Humbrol Gloss Klear-Kote over the top, that sorted it. Micro-set on the fin, then the decal and dab to remove excess water, then Micro-sol. One edge did keep wanted to lift, but a gentle dab with a paper towel flattened it.

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Cheers

Danny

P.S. yes I am still avoiding the checker-board.........

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Nice work on the decals Danny, I had the same issue with printing Waterslide decals, and I found that a thin dusting of conformal coating to seal the ink works. I use Kontakt-Chemie Plastik 70 PCB Lacquer which works fine.

Here are some badges I printed recently for my Brian Taylor P40. They were taken from photos of the original machine, tweaked a bit and resized for the model scale. I was quite happy with the way they turned out.

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Edited By Peter G Simpson on 21/06/2020 21:50:50

Edited By Peter G Simpson on 21/06/2020 22:06:38

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Posted by Danny Fenton on 21/06/2020 21:47:17:

You don't see many build Brian's P-40, how does it perform, and what engine??

Thanks Danny, I built it because I really wanted to find out how the P40 flys, but as a ‘sports’ model based on the Taylor P40, so there is very little scale detail on my model, but the outline is as per BT’s design. I wanted to see if the short tail would be an issue but it really isn’t and it flys really well and the flaps are really effective. I fitted an Irvine 61 2 stroke an it is plenty powerful enough for a decent climb, though the 12” prop looks very silly. The stock silencer fits perfectly within the chin cowling. Even with the lightweight engine I had to put weight in the tail for balancing. She came out at 8Lbs ready to fly with Robert 615 twisty turny retracts.

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A bit more done during lunch today, managed to mask the upper wing white area in preparation for the black check pattern.

The problem is the edge tracks 2mm from the roundel, had to mask by hand in the end, using a 2mm wide length of stencil material, it cureves better than any pvc tape .

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Martyn asked how I keep the dust down in the workshop:

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And after a 30 minute airbrush session laying down white.

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I use the same system when sanding.

Cheers

Danny

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Posted by Peter G Simpson on 21/06/2020 22:04:36:
Posted by Danny Fenton on 21/06/2020 21:47:17:

You don't see many build Brian's P-40, how does it perform, and what engine??

Thanks Danny, I built it because I really wanted to find out how the P40 flys, but as a ‘sports’ model based on the Taylor P40, so there is very little scale detail on my model, but the outline is as per BT’s design. I wanted to see if the short tail would be an issue but it really isn’t and it flys really well and the flaps are really effective. I fitted an Irvine 61 2 stroke an it is plenty powerful enough for a decent climb, though the 12” prop looks very silly. The stock silencer fits perfectly within the chin cowling. Even with the lightweight engine I had to put weight in the tail for balancing. She came out at 8Lbs ready to fly with Robert 615 twisty turny retracts.

Real nice that.

As for Hawker biplanes they all look the same.

I suspect they are where British Leyland got the idea of 'badge engineering' from

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Not entirely sure where you are going with that Richard? Camm's influence can be seen through all the Hawker designs, which included biplanes, monoplanes, and one of the fastest piston engined fighters able to take on a Mig, right through to the VTOL Harrier. Not sure I would equate Hawkers to Leyland?

Cheers

Danny

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Managed a little more details while waiting for the white to harden.

More illustrator work, these characters are under a mm tall so will be better as decals.

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These go on little white patches on the oleo covers.

I then re-visited the tail-plane rigging, I wasn't happy with the first effort, and not much better pleased with this tbh but it will do. Trying to replicate something when the structure is all wrong is impossible. So I am opting to try and make the fittings as unobtrusive as possible....

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I soldered in "situ" hence the little litho plates protecting the tissue.

The end result with the leather covers is pretty good, if I do say so myself

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At the nose I struggled and wasted lots of litho-plate trying to create the carb' intakes, in the end I gave up and carved them from basswood and used Flite-Metal, I know a cop out.....

A black bed was airbrushed to hide the fact that they are sat on the surface and not protruding from within the cowl.

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Does anybody have any pictures of the gun barrels in situ?

Cheers

Danny

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Hi Danny, I know the feeling I have given up trying to form them. I have yet to carve mine though I have put the black on where they go. It turned out to be too windy up here today so flew my Mustang instead. How long before the Maiden? it's looking better every day.

Cheers Eric.

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Mmmm I have found the size by scaling the Westburg drawings. The amount of barrel exposed is 60mm long, but there seems to be conflict about the shape at the tip.

This is Gwyn's Fury. And his research was impeccable, so it is VERY probably correct.

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I will make mine 60 mm and holes in a similar fashion.

Cheers

Danny

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