Piers Acland Posted October 22, 2021 Share Posted October 22, 2021 I appreciate that you don't have the Mossie in mind but I endorse Martin's comment wholeheartedly. Managed to finish BT's 82" Mossie but it was pretty fiendish and has ended up quite heavy (18.5 lb without the 2lb of lead needs up front). Very doubtful that it will survive the maiden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share Posted October 24, 2021 Had a final push on the panel lines today and to my amazement the single £3 sheet of pre cut lines from Jim Reeves has completed the whole model. I even have a few left over. I also had a go at simulating the louvres shown in this picture using the silver vinyl sheet I have been using for various inspection panels. I don’t suppose anyone will notice the detail and given it is a facade of for real louvres it is just as well it is underneath. looking forward to spraying over all the lines, giving them a light rub with wet and dry and then the whole model can have its final primer coat. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted October 24, 2021 Share Posted October 24, 2021 Great work Nick . Looks very realistic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted October 28, 2021 Author Share Posted October 28, 2021 Blew the final primer coat on today. After all the work applying the panel lines they seem rather feint but I guess the Klasskote will pick them up in the sunshine and once I have done all the rivets it will accentuate their locations. I pulled the tape up after just spraying the lines yesterday and figured the final top coat would soften them a tad but in retrospect it may have been better to leave the tape in and remove after the top coat. We live and learn! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 28, 2021 Share Posted October 28, 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 28, 2021 Share Posted October 28, 2021 4 hours ago, Nick Somerville said: Blew the final primer coat on today. After all the work applying the panel lines they seem rather feint but I guess the Klasskote will pick them up in the sunshine and once I have done all the rivets it will accentuate their locations. I pulled the tape up after just spraying the lines yesterday and figured the final top coat would soften them a tad but in retrospect it may have been better to leave the tape in and remove after the top coat. We live and learn! Less is more ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted October 29, 2021 Share Posted October 29, 2021 On 06/05/2021 at 22:22, Danny Fenton said: Mmmm.... at £7 a pop and that's for a nylon unit, I will stick to making my own ? BangGood did some for around £3 each but they have been unavailable for some time. I guess if you haven't access to a lathe, that's the price you have to pay. Cheers Danny Hi Danny and others, I've been looking at your amazing work on RDS for nice clean aileron linkages. I don't have access to a lathe unfortunately so I'd have to buy the couplers. I'll keep trying to find cheaper alternatives - what do you reckon to this: https://www.robotshop.com/uk/servo-to-shaft-clamping-coupler-0250-in-24-tooth-spline.html Cheers! Dave 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 29, 2021 Share Posted October 29, 2021 Thanks for the kind words ? those are still quite pricey but should work fine. I did approach an engineering firm, but unit price was still very high. A friend 3d printed some for me in a tough nylon and they seemed to work well. Just need to thouroughly stress test them before burying them in a wing! I can put you in touch with the modeller if you are interested in trying some? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted October 29, 2021 Share Posted October 29, 2021 4 minutes ago, Danny Fenton said: Thanks for the kind words ? those are still quite pricey but should work fine. I did approach an engineering firm, but unit price was still very high. A friend 3d printed some for me in a tough nylon and they seemed to work well. Just need to thouroughly stress test them before burying them in a wing! I can put you in touch with the modeller if you are interested in trying some? Cheers Danny That's very kind Danny, thank you. I'm not at a stage where I need them as yet - just ruminating as to how I might clean up the lines underneath scale warbird wings for future builds... I might come back to you on that offer though! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted October 29, 2021 Author Share Posted October 29, 2021 David, the Robotshop couplers came with several adaptors for a variety of common servos but unfortunately for me not one to suit my servos. O took one if the oversized ones and filled it with a epoxy mix and then places it over the splines (having first applied some vaseline). Seems to have worked fine but until I finally glue in the aileron hinges I can’t properly test everything. As mentioned they are a bit pricey and in my case even less value since I didn’t have matching servos. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 29, 2021 Share Posted October 29, 2021 From my experience I would think that panel lines and rivets should still show up OK at the end of the day once the top coat has been applied since these need to be very subtle. A light sanding with 1200 or 1500 grit used wet should suffice . I shall attempt to put to put a pic of my now dead Lanc . here but it is on a very old laptop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 29, 2021 Share Posted October 29, 2021 Sounds dodgy to me Nick. Could you not have bolted whatever it is you are trying to fit to a servo arm? Epoxy tends to soften over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted October 29, 2021 Author Share Posted October 29, 2021 ‘Sounds dodgy to me Nick.’ Thanks Martin, will sleep easy tonight ?. The minute amount of epoxy, even if it softens, doesn’t have anywhere to go so I am reasonably confident. However I will certainly be doing very stringent tests before committing to aviation. Also the mid sized high quality aileron servos (KTS) are rated at 5.5kg and though normally used in sailplanes should man enough for the task of scale warbird flying. Have a look at this photo of my mock up of the RDS system before I installed it into the Fury. The nylon cylinder has a splined inner that takes an adapter to suit the servo splines (ie splines x2) and that has the usual servo arm screw holding it in place. There are two grub screws to lock the cranked rod that goes out to the aileron pocket and the rod has flats filed to prevent unwanted rotation. So the weak point in my set up is the inner spline reinforced with epoxy as you have mentioned. Once the ailerons are set we shall see but it could all be re-done if I am not 100% happy. Always appreciate of advice ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 29, 2021 Share Posted October 29, 2021 Hmm. I much prefer totally secure, slop free linkages using ball links throughout even if they protrude but the best of luck with that set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted October 30, 2021 Share Posted October 30, 2021 As long as the RDS aileron pockets are an accurate fit for the actuating arm then they will be slop free! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 30, 2021 Share Posted October 30, 2021 And invisible. I cannot stand to see arms and rods sticking out. And heaven forbid the servo stuck to the outside of the model! But that's just me ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted October 30, 2021 Author Share Posted October 30, 2021 24 hours after priming the paint settled in and my panel lines reappeared sufficiently to satisfy the work that had been done applying them. There are a variety of rivet types and styles and I have settled on four methods to get the right appearance. Two different sized brass tubes firmly pressed with rotation to impress the flush rivets into the surface. Another of larger tube size set in a slodering iron to burn the more prominent flush rivets and canopy glue dots for the raised rivets. A bit of masking tape helps get a grip but its still tiring on the fingers so it’s going to take a while. I know you can buy special tape to help apply them but just doing them this way by wye seems to give a good effect that once painted over will avoid the I K Brunel steelwork / ‘foamie’ warbird look. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 30, 2021 Share Posted October 30, 2021 Never tried burning flush rivets onto glass with a hot tube. Don`t fancy twiddling a piece by hand. For raised ones I use TN`s idea of multi rivet tools with PVA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted October 30, 2021 Author Share Posted October 30, 2021 Only melts the primer coat leaving a more pronounced edge, compared to the press and twist cold method. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted November 11, 2021 Author Share Posted November 11, 2021 Well and truly fed up twiddling rivets onto the Fury. The Fuselage is all done but wings will have to wait until I can sum up some more enthusiasm. In the meantime I have finished off the litho exhaust cheeks. The screws a just a little oversize but the smallest I had. Just needs a good polish and some heat stains adding. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 I use a couple of TN type multi rivet applicators, very quick to do with PVA and can be made to look flush or proud. MRM do two sizes of minute screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 Very impressive work Nick … looks like the real thing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted November 15, 2021 Author Share Posted November 15, 2021 Have the canopy frame almost done and though there are a few wrinkles to sort out it should look ok with the metal coat flattened back a little with fine wire wool. I am not going to entertain the idea of it sliding as it will only allow closer inspection of cockpit detailing when done. I certainly don’t have a ‘Sea Fury in My Workshop’ and will be happy to have a semblance of the interior. Having said no sliding mechanism it’s been surprising what has come loose in the cockpit of my P47. I have extricated both the bomb sight and joystick, which both came adrift despite my fairly gentle arrivals. Trouble is there is no way back inside to re glue them without paring the canopy away and that isn’t going to happen. I think I shall try to make the floor pan of the Fury cockpit detachable from the sides, so I can drop it out for maintenance and canopy dusting. With a break from rivets after completing the fuselage I have now made a start on the wings. The marking out is time consuming, but once done impressing the rivets is about a couple of hours work per side. I have almost done one side but will need to regain the feel in my fingers before starting the next. I shan’t be doing the underside! So far I have only made one hole through the wing skin; probably an area that was over sanded and thinner than elsewhere. It’s hard to say at this point how they will look when sprayed over, but I am at least a little hopeful it will be worth the effort. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted November 15, 2021 Share Posted November 15, 2021 1 hour ago, Nick Somerville said: it’s been surprising what has come loose in the cockpit of my P47. I had a similar experience with my P39. I came down after a flight to find the pilots head had come off and was rolling around by his feet. I popped it back on but some time later the poor chap looked like he had passed out as his head was in the instrument panel. Turns out he had broken in half at the waist! into surgery again to reconnect his spine and he was back in action after 30 minutes of epoxy drying time. Anyway, model looks ace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted November 15, 2021 Author Share Posted November 15, 2021 “pilots head had come off and was rolling around by his feet.” At least you were able to get to him. A Pilot without a joystick in his open hand is all wrong ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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