HOUND DOG build

[Peter Miller]

THat is a neat idea for cutting the webs webs out.

[EarlyBird]

Thanks Peter,

 

The webs are 59x31 mm which makes a loose fit. I cut a 59 mm strip then used the jig set at 31 mm.

 

Now for another jig.

 

 

This is for the packing pieces on the R3 ribs.

 

Tested one glued in place

 

Then cut another 16 just in case I lose one.

 

Steve

[Steven Hurd]

Is it worth letting sariknknow about the discrepancy on the wing ribs, at least then they might adjust the cutting profile in further batches. 
 

it won’t help you though, 

 

Great  building though looks like it’s progressing very well. Good luck with the rest of it, I’ll be watching with interest. 
 

 

[Peter Miller]

It could well be a good idea.

[EarlyBird]

10 hours ago, Steven Hurd said:

Is it worth letting Sarik know about the discrepancy on the wing ribs, at least then they might adjust the cutting profile in further batches. 

I usually talk to Adam in production or email [email protected] with photos.

 

Steve

[EarlyBird]

Too early to phone so I have sent an email.

 

Steve

[Peter Miller]

Guess What...I sent and email last nighttoo.

[EarlyBird]

I've had a very nice reply from Adam.

 

Thanks for the heads up, I'll get our designer to fix them in the laser cut parts, I'm not too sure if he can update the plan though. I'll let you know what we're doing about it once we've figured it out!

 

As I'm sure you know it's a really new plan to us, so any other feedback is very much appreciated. 

 

The additional wood is always tricky for us as we work it out virtually and it's nearly never listed by designers. Also the additional wood list may only be the stuff that we keep in stock that fits that plane, so it might be best to delete the photo of that list online as it could cause trouble to a scratch builder if it's missing bits.

 

thanks again,

 

Adam

 

Steve

[Steven Hurd]

Well they sound like a great team to deal with, quick to reply and enthusiastic to put things right. 
 

first class service… 

[Peter Miller]

Adam sent me a reply and illustration of the modifications to the plan.  That should solve the problems.

 

I have apologised for my failure to spot the error.

 

One reason that we don't add the materiel list to the plan is that we often use quite large amounts of material from our copious scrap boxes.

 

On the old forum I had an article on estimating wood needed for a model. I don't know if it is still here.

[EarlyBird]

Woodn't you like to know? | RCM&E (modelflying.co.uk)

 

Steve

[EarlyBird]

Sarik have made the changes to the plan and cut parts.

 

 

Impressive!

 

Steve

[EarlyBird]

On 24/10/2022 at 20:12, Steven Hurd said:

Good luck with the rest of it, I’ll be watching with interest.

In that case I will keep posting.

 

Ribs all dry fitted.

 

This locates the aileron spar so take it apart and start by gluing the aileron spar.

 

Steve

 

[Steven Hurd]

How are the ailerons built? I’m intrigued as I’ve never built inset ailerons. 
 

It looks like you have to manually shorten the ribs and then use a portion of the offcut for the aileron, but do you then have to cut the aileron from the spars and then try to tidy the leading edge up? 
 

I can’t believe that I’ve never done an inset  aileron but I haven’t, I’ll maybe have to get this kit just to have a go at one. 
 

The wing looks good on the bench and the parts look like they fit well, is this one for cyano or good old white wood glue. 
 

Thanks 

 

 

[Peter Miller]

The plan shows the ribs in the aileron area and the precut parts are cut to length. The rear spar in the aileron area is increased to the full depth of the wing rib.  The aileron leading edge is full depth of the rib.there is also across secton of the wing at the aileron which shows this clearly..

 

Don't worry, it is  extremely easy.  Just remember,I usually work on the KISS principle on most of my designs. Hound Dog is one of those.

[Steven Hurd]

I think I get it, thanks, I’m getting a copy of the plan and with your explanation I’m sure it will become clear. 
 

 

[Andrew Denley]

Am getting ready to start this model. One question though, will it need much (if any) nose weight and if so, where is best, under the cowl?

 

[Peter Miller]

Using a 3300 Mah battery it did not need any. In fact I also used  SIGP 2250 Mah battery which is cheap and only about 10 grams lighter. No nose weight needed.

 

Of course the model can vary a bit so just make sure it balances at 25% chord.

You can also increase the throws a little if you want it abit livelier.

[Andrew Denley]

Thanks very much. I have a few years of experience in Free Flight, (new to RC), so I was hoping I could build this aeroplane light anyway. Its a lovely-looking aeroplane, can't wait!

 

[Peter Miller]

One can buy strips of assortment sizes self adhesive weights,  I find these useful for balancing models.  .Come to think of it, I have 30 grams (1 oz) on the fusealge side under the tailplane on Hound Dog.  If I used a lighter battery I could remove some of that

[EarlyBird]

One wing is well on the way.

 

 

next will be to build the aileron and wing tip.

 

 

Steve

[EarlyBird]

Aileron LE and ribs glued.

 

 

Steve

[BrianRH]

On 22/10/2022 at 14:28, Peter Miller said:

Hi David.

I am glad that you like the look of Hound Dog.  I am sure that you will like it.

 

You will find Hound Dog very docile on low rates and not the slightest bit stressful on high rates.  I must admit that I almost feel that I should have increased the rates in the article but my club mates will tell you that with models like The Ohmen and my Peggy Sue the only time they are flying straight and level is when I am flying them inverted and most people find THEM too much.

 

And thank you for your kind remarks

 

Peter

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Peter,

 

Hound Dog will be my winter build project, I think. Having already built Bootlace and The Ohmen, I was going to build Ballerina next but maybe that can be next year's winter project!

 

I'm just wondering if you can clear up a bit of confusion in my head about "rates". As I understand it, the only way to increase or decrease the response of a model to movements of the control stick is to move the clevis snap links to a different hole in the control horns. This gives you 3 or 4 possible settings of the rate at which the control surfaces move in response to a given control input. So, when you say that you "should have increased the rates ..." I am just wondering what you mean by that? Aren't the rates a matter of user preference by selection of the appropriate holes in the control horns? Or, am I missing something? I only use the most basic transmitter, so for example the Futaba T6L Sport. Do more elaborate transmitters include a software facility for changing the rates?

 

Thanks

Brian

[Steven Hurd]

Brian 
 

 

You are correct, modern computer radios have software functions that allow you reduce or increase the servo travel, and have multiple rates on a switch. 
 

very handy in first flight trials 

 

Steve 

[Peter Miller]

As Steve says, even quite old 35 Mhz sets like the Field Force 8 have rates.  

 

In the case of Hound Dog set the control throws at slightly more than my low rates for a start and then when you are familiar with it put them  a bit at a time until you find your favourite settings.

 

Hound dog is much less hairy than The Ohmen or at least mine is and I keep meaning to increase the throws.  The Ohmen is only flown straight and level when it is inverted!!