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HOUND DOG build


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On looking up the Futaba T6L manual I was amazed to find it lacks rate switches!    Even 1980's basic Futaba 5 channel sets had rate switches so it's surpprising current ones lack this.  Generally one would advise against any Tx that does not have an LED screen to adjust things and change to another model memory.   However it should be OK for flying especially if an instructor test flys the model.   My first Futaba set was ( amatuer) changed to Mode 1 and this lost the rate function on elevator ( it was then on the throttle!) so I know that rate switches are not essential just handy.    Building a design that specifies the control movements helps a lot - not all designs show the movements.

   Model memories and rate switches are things to look for when buying a Tx.

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9 minutes ago, Peter Miller said:

I know that it is worth nothing but my FF 6 would work with your 35 Mhz rx.  If you want it it is yours for nothing.  I could post it to you unless you live within a reasonable distance of the Suffolk Essex border.

I have a few 35MHz receivers you can have if we roll them all into one parcel!

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Only just seen this. Thanks very much Peter and Graham for the offer, that's very kind, but it'll give the wife something to buy me for Christmas so don't worry. Just ordering the kit from Sarik now. Will keep you posted on progress. Yours is looking good EarlyBird.

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Thanks for the support guys. 👍

 

11 hours ago, Steven Hurd said:

what did you stick the leading edge sheeting down with. I can’t see any pins holding it down. 

PVA wood glue is what I use most of the time. I have been experimenting, gradually adapting my method and minimising the pins used with each build. On the spar edge I use Peter's no pins method but due to a lack of bulldog clips I use clothes pegs with a ruler to protect the balsa sheet. On the LE I do use pins to form the shape. This time I wet the outside of the sheet except for along the spar edge where the ruler and pegs will be. While the sheet is naturally bending I spread glue along the spar position the sheet and lightly press along the length of the spar to spread the glue and transfer some glue onto the sheet contact area. Lift it off placing it to one side while the glue soaks in and at the same time spread glue on the ribs and LE. Taking my time the damp bent sheet is positioned and pressed down so that some glue gets onto the sheet in the contact areas. The spar edge is pegged down and the LE pinned. Pinning the LE can make the sheet lift between the LE and spar so weights are added to keep it in contact. Leaving it for a while so that the glue partially dries and the sheet dries a bit. Time for the iron now starting with the spar edge then the LE, obviously the pegs and pins have to be removed to do this. Ironing dries the sheet which makes it lose it's shape so pins are used and can be seen in the photo, left click on the photo to expand it, maybe.

 

I will give more details, with photos, on my next build. 

 

Steve

 

 

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A very little known technique for some jobs that people may find useful using aliphatic resin.  This works with thin sheet, i.e. 1/16 sheet and thin ply.

 

Coat both surfaces with aliphatic resin and leave to dry.  When dry using a hot iron. (A small travelling clothes iron works best) place the thin sheet over the structure and iron it down.  It will bond the two together.

 

NOTE!  This is a once only process. Once it is ironed on it will never move again.

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