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Vailly FW 190 1/4.5 (Nick Somerville)


Nick Somerville
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Cheers John, garden certainly lush with all the rain. 
 

In fact it rained most of the Bank Holiday so completed the insignia and nomenclature. Stencils and dry rub decals courtesy of Flightline Graphics.

 

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One of the working flap indicators and the little red post that indicates Gear Down. 
 

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Thanks Peter, a relief not to have stuffed up the painting. My third model using spraygun and airbrush and I am starting to work out the procedures. Klasskote paint is brilliant stuff and for the insignia etc I use SMS acrylic lacquer from a local model shop in Frome. No second guessing the thinning as it goes straight in the airbrush with very high pigment. White over jet black is a doddle! I used about 25ml of black and 20ml of white for all the markings.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Not posted for a while, though have been chipping away the at to do list, which has be ome much longer than I had thought.

 

Final transparent matt Klasskote sprayed on the whole airframe, which has evened any differences in sheen between the colours nicely and has also fuel proofed  the insignia. The gun hood now has the guns in place that act as a sprung catch. Would be some airbrake if that popped on a flyby! Receiver and ignition isolation switches now wired in. The bowden cable protruding is for  a manual choke, yet to be completed. 
 

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Engine has been bolted on and twin receivers have found homes along with the esc for the engine starter motor. Once I find a location for the starter battery I can put everything together and do my C of G check; though I need to design and make a simple balancer first. 
 

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Once all is in place I can set the engine up and run it in with the cowl off. 
 

Wife is away from tomorrow for five days so hopefully my to do list will shrink. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just a short clip of the maiden take off. Flew lovely at the hands of clubmate Chris S who is a far better pilot than I. A few clicks of trim here and there but no dramatics and safely down with a peachy landing. My camera guy couldn’t make it and I was too excited to film the landing. 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello Ken, I find Litho needs a good rub with 80-120 grit paper to give it a good key whatever glue you use. For the large rear litho part I used a thin layer of epoxy as well as regular canopy glue at the edges. The canopy glue took days to go off. Otherwise I think I used thick cyano. If you can give the specific area of the canopy a rub too with sandpaper, all the better but obviously a risky task. So far everything is staying put. 

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Thanks Nick , I have been doing trials with cyano and canopy glue , and I found the latter still soft hours later ...guess not a lot to soak into with litho and the plastic.. Amazing how you almost stretched the litho to get that curve at the teardrop end , I shall do my best to be a mini Nick lol.  It is the front canopy cage that I am trying to make out of individual sections and shape each to the pre moulded shape of the canopy ..... I fear it looking like a pilot ejection on the first fast fly past. 

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Try Gorilla Glue Clear, it is slow drying but is very strong and dries clear and sticks most things! I used it to stick the canopy frame on my Hurricane and it's still in place even after 2 landing nose overs which saw the 'plane ending up on the canopy!

 

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Edited by Ron Gray
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Great looking canopy there Ron! I am going to try that type of ‘monkey’ glue

# a modeller can never have enough glues.

 

Ken, the canopy on my 190 turned out quite heavy, as I glued the litho form to the already pretty thick vac formed canopy. Although I really enjoyed teasing the shape by burnishing the inside with a teaspoon it really isn’t a suitable technique for a smaller model as it’s quite a big part if the canopy. Assuming you have a formed canopy with your kit I would mask up the front and build up some primer layers for the rear and coat with an alu spray coat before final colour. That way you have something to weather back to for realism. 

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6 minutes ago, Nick Somerville said:

Great looking canopy there Ron!

Thanks Nick, great what you can do with a 3D printer! The weathering (metal look) was actually applied after the paint using Rub n Buff. I have also used self adhesive aluminium tape, which works quite well

 

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Edited by Ron Gray
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