Superglue Properties

[Christopher Wolfe]

I was just searching for why I don't like cyano (except for emergency field repairs) when I came across this: Cyano.

Quite an interesting read.

 

I have heard rumours that cyano joints fail after about 7 years but thought that this might be an internet rumour because no evidence found and I also have 20 year old models that are still intact that have been assembled with cyano adhesive.

 

Actually I don't like cyano because the joints are brittle and (unlike balsa cement and PVA) weak if re-glued.

[dave parnham]

A lot of people also speed up the gluing procedure with Accelerator in spray form. I don't like it because it stinks but also wonder how in the long term it affects the glue joint?

[Engine Doctor]

I find that joints are stronger and the glue stays tougher if no accelerator is used  It does seem to make the glue brittle .

[john davidson 1]

Just read the link in the first post, I certainly did not know not to use cotton gloves. They may catch fire on contact. I once inadvertently had a lot of glue on the heel  of my hand , on spraying  the joint with accelerator  the glue on my hand actually boiled and I could only stand and watch. Another lesson learnt the hard way

[leccyflyer]

I don't easily use standard thin CA, because I've become sensitised to it and the slightest whiff results in 2-3 days of runny nose and breathing issues. I do have a bottle in the fridge for emergencies, when it's door open,  mask on, hit the joint with the glue and then get the heck out of dodge for an hour.

 

For some jobs I have some foam safe CA, but it takes forever to set , on occasion I've resorted to using kicker. I don't mind the aniline smell of the kicker and don't suffer any significant effects. However, it's worth noting the kicker is not necessarily foam safe, even if the CA is foam safe. Lesson learned there.

[Cuban8]

47 minutes ago, dave parnham said:

A lot of people also speed up the gluing procedure with Accelerator in spray form. I don't like it because it stinks but also wonder how in the long term it affects the glue joint?

BSM (Bob Smith Models) accelerator previously available from Hobby King and labelled as such, has a very low odour that is actually not unpleasant. I find all BSM products to be very reliable, don't cost a fortune and I see that they're available from Steve Webb Models. Others as well, no doubt.

[Christopher Wolfe]

A few years ago I managed to open a crack in the bottom of a float when taxiing (hit a submerged rock).

 

After drying the float I produced a small vial of baking powder from the flight box and using a small artists brush applied a little baking powder into the crack and applied a tiny drop of thin cyano with a toothpick. A puff of smoke (or steam) and the the repair was good.

 

Well, some of my fellow aeromodellers were amazed and so this 'trick' appeared in the club newsletter.

 

I am recounting this here just in case it helps somebody else 🙃

[leccyflyer]

Back in the days before 3D printing was even a glint in it's inventor's eye, I made bezels for the instrument panel on my Mick Reeves FW190D project using microballoons and thin CA. Make a single master bezel from brass tube or plastic and fit it to a plasticard baseplate, using some tiny self tapping screws to represent the fixings. Press this into a flat piece of modelling clay to make a female mould. Fill the mould with microballons and dribble a few drops of thin CA into the mould. Puff-fizz and there you have a very lightweight(if somewhat brittle) instrument bezel. Glaze it with overhead transparency acetate and stick it over a plasticard panel with the holes cut out in front of the instrument faces.

[Nigel R]

I use cyano for most everything. Has been perfectly reliable so far. Even in some old airframes. 

 

It's stronger than the wood, for sure. 

[Christopher Wolfe]

I recently found an interesting article regarding the history of Superglue/CA

 

Chris

 

 

[leccyflyer]

Had to evacuate the workshop yesterday after a rare encounter with thin CA - just about the only thing I use it for is mylar hinges and with the door open, a good quality mask rated for use with vapours and minimal exposure to the CA, straight from the fridge, I had to leave after a couple of minutes as my eyes were burning from the fumes. Horrible stuff. I think I might try Pacer Hinge Glue next time, though I've not used that on Mylar hinges.

[Christopher Wolfe]

12 minutes ago, leccyflyer said:

Had to evacuate the workshop yesterday after a rare encounter with thin CA - just about the only thing I use it for is mylar hinges and with the door open, a good quality mask rated for use with vapours and minimal exposure to the CA, straight from the fridge, I had to leave after a couple of minutes as my eyes were burning from the fumes. Horrible stuff. I think I might try Pacer Hinge Glue next time, though I've not used that on Mylar hinges.

 

G'day leccyflyer, I have often heard of other people who are sensitive to CA fumes so you are not alone.

 

I have heard that this works very well super-phatic and although I use it for building models I do not use Mylar hinges but maybe somebody who has tried this combination might chip in with their observations.

 

Chris

[leccyflyer]

I use SuperPhatic for most of my woodworking, have done for many years - for that purpose it's a perfect substitute for thin CA for me, due to it's wicking properties. I haven't tried to glue  mylar with it - so will do some tests.

[Outrunner]

I use a smear of 30 minute epoxy for mylar hinges as i find cyano tends to grab too quickly, I get affected by the fumes too so I try to avoid cyano.

[Nigel R]

1 hour ago, leccyflyer said:

I think I might try Pacer Hinge Glue next time, though I've not used that on Mylar hinges.

 

I like mylar hinges. Tough as the proverbial.

 

I use Canopy Glue on mylar hinges - never had a failure. Canopy glue seems like it has some kind of etching agent added, and its very rubbery when dry. Clean up is just damp paper towel.

 

You probably know the following already, so apologies for the egg sucking tutorial, anyway, I do:

 

Rough up the mylar with coarse paper.

Drill some holes in the mylar if it doesn't already have them. Fill the holes with some glue.

Pre-fill the hinge slot with glue... I use a 2" (ish) length of plastic drinking straw. Put a few drops of glue in the straw, put straw in slot, squeeze straw to get glue into slot.

Creases can be lined up nicely with a long rule.

Do (e.g.) wing side first, let dry overnight, come back next day to do the aileron.

 

By contrast, the flocked CA hinges, I have had those fail and come out. Brittle CA and flexible plastic does not seem like a good match.

Edited February 3, 2023 by Nigel R

[Stuart Z]

On 03/02/2023 at 08:23, leccyflyer said:

Had to evacuate the workshop yesterday after a rare encounter with thin CA - just about the only thing I use it for is mylar hinges and with the door open, a good quality mask rated for use with vapours and minimal exposure to the CA, straight from the fridge, I had to leave after a couple of minutes as my eyes were burning from the fumes. Horrible stuff. I think I might try Pacer Hinge Glue next time, though I've not used that on Mylar hinges.

Similar issues, a while ago when trying to build a Hi Boy in the shed, hot sunny day, spread some cyano on a joint, wallop, massive headache and fell out the shed door as the fumes hit.  Used Aliphatic ever since, even though at this time of year you have to wait hours for joint to harden.  At least I don’t have the nasty experience I had with cyano.  It has it’s place but not on a hot sunny day in a closed shed.

S