paul devereux Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 How do I connect this ESC to this battery? It has me stumped! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Gaskin 1 Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 (edited) Hi Paul, You need to either replace one of the connectors (either battery or ESC) or arrange a 'conversion lead' that will connect between the JST and MPX connectors. My favourite would be to replace both the green & red connectors with XT30 plugs and sockets. Tom Edited February 10, 2023 by Tom Gaskin 1 Added info 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Chaddock Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 (edited) paul Note the diameter of the wires from the battery to the JST connector compared to those from the ESC to the MPX connector. The ESC is rated at 20A A JST is rated for only 10A so the battery wires have been sized accordingly. If your motor takes the full 20A the wires from the battery are a bit on the small side. Agree entirely that XT30 (30A) plug and socket would be more than adequate but it will require soldering. Edited February 10, 2023 by Simon Chaddock 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul devereux Posted February 10, 2023 Author Share Posted February 10, 2023 Thanks, both. I'm wondering if I can take the simplest option of using a spare Art Tech 10 ESC which already has a JST connector and connecting larger diameter motor connections to it? I can just crimp them on as I did with the JST connector to the battery. I won't mind the motor being less powerful as the battery suits the ESC. (I didn't recognise the Multiplex connectors having never seen them before, it's only a 30 inch span MPX Merlin). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 Don't crimp, solder. A crimped joint is far more likely to fail..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattyB Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 2 hours ago, paul devereux said: Thanks, both. I'm wondering if I can take the simplest option of using a spare Art Tech 10 ESC which already has a JST connector and connecting larger diameter motor connections to it? I can just crimp them on as I did with the JST connector to the battery. I won't mind the motor being less powerful as the battery suits the ESC. (I didn't recognise the Multiplex connectors having never seen them before, it's only a 30 inch span MPX Merlin). A battery doesn't really "suit" an ESC. The overall load is defined by the combined characteristics of the motor and the prop selected, and it is based on that peak load you select the ESC an battery (both capacity and C rating). The fact an ESC as a given connector that matches your battery doesn't mean it is appropriate to use, it's the overall powertrain characteristics that define that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 36 minutes ago, GrumpyGnome said: Don't crimp, solder. A crimped joint is far more likely to fail..... Remind me, are cans of worms crimped or soldered? 😉 2 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Chaddock Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 That motor on 3s LiPo and a 7x4 prop only takes 6.2 amps. I would use the 10A ESC and use the existing JST connectors. Simples! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul devereux Posted February 10, 2023 Author Share Posted February 10, 2023 5 hours ago, GrumpyGnome said: Don't crimp, solder. A crimped joint is far more likely to fail..... I agree, generally. But these are BT crimps with gel, so they are pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 7 hours ago, GrumpyGnome said: Don't crimp, solder. A crimped joint is far more likely to fail..... Then all the servo connectors you have are potential failures as they're all crimped as are all the multiple wires to connectors on gas turbines (and probably the whole aircraft). Crimped connections are, when properly done, more reliable than solder joints which tend to fail where the solder ends. All the PC boards and racks on the first computer I worked on in 1961 were held in place by cold wire wrapped bare tin copper and there were 1000s. They were very reliable and made using a modified Stanley pump action screwdriver 🙂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMON CRAGG Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 First of all its not a silly question, starting out with electric models can be VERY confusing, especially if all things "electric" have always been a bit of a mystery! (Like they were to me). Best bet, is to decide what sort / size of connectors you would like to use (ESC / power lead / battery). Ask any ten modellers which are the best and you'll get ten different answers. After trying a few, all my 20+ models have EC5 plugs and sockets. I buy them by the bag full for next to nothing from e.bay or Aliexpress. Next, get a decent soldering iron, some heat shrink tubing, a small vice and one of those cheap "helping hands" devices with two clips and a magnifying glass. Lots of good videos via Google on how to solder RC connectors. Once you have gathered all the items together, have a play! Like most things, after a bit of practice you will get the hang of it. Good luck and hope this helps you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 6 hours ago, Geoff S said: Then all the servo connectors you have are potential failures as they're all crimped as are all the multiple wires to connectors on gas turbines (and probably the whole aircraft). Crimped connections are, when properly done, more reliable than solder joints which tend to fail where the solder ends. All the PC boards and racks on the first computer I worked on in 1961 were held in place by cold wire wrapped bare tin copper and there were 1000s. They were very reliable and made using a modified Stanley pump action screwdriver 🙂 If it's crimped at the esc, it's breaking, and making, a connection every flight. If it's crimped at the battery, it's breaking, and making, a connection for each flight AND for each charge/discharge/storage. I don't do that with my servo connectors............. Similarly, when I worked on server farm, we didn't disturb any hardware on a regular basis. Each to their own I guess. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 10 hours ago, paul devereux said: I agree, generally. But these are BT crimps with gel, so they are pretty good. I agree, the gel filled IDC connectors are very good when used in a static, very rarely disturbed, situation. But sometimes I would use soldered heat shrink joints just to make sure. BTW they are not crimped they are Insulation Displacement Connectors so are not the same as the reliable crimped connectors that are often used. Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 1 hour ago, EarlyBird said: I agree, the gel filled IDC connectors are very good when used in a static, very rarely disturbed, situation. But sometimes I would use soldered heat shrink joints just to make sure. BTW they are not crimped they are Insulation Displacement Connectors so are not the same as the reliable crimped connectors that are often used. Steve Steer clear of those and similar types of IDC connectors IMHO. Many years ago they were specified as part of a field modification kit by one of my colleagues who had put together an upgrade outfit for the equipment we were manufacturing. I remember at a meeting, the sight of our senior engineer's face draining of blood when he saw the proposal to use those connectors and his forthright negative opinion of them. He was an ex-Radar man for Cossor and really knew his stuff. I did try them out as an experiment and was also mightily unimpressed - even for simple and non-critical use. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 Those connectors are designed for specific small conductor sizes used in the telecoms external network - well below the current requirements for an electric flight motor. They work very well for their designed purpose. I would say they are totally unsuitable for what you’re suggesting! You can buy similar but larger (dry) versions for automotive cable use but they are, in my opinion, an unreliable bodge which I would avoid using. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul devereux Posted February 11, 2023 Author Share Posted February 11, 2023 Thanks to everyone who responded with advice. I solved the problem with a brainwave of my own: I decided to look through all the components Multiplex had put in their "power-train" box. And found the correct size bullet connectors! Who'd have thought it? Not me, lol! Two days of head-scratching could have been spared if I had checked what they had supplied! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul devereux Posted February 11, 2023 Author Share Posted February 11, 2023 Soldered in and insulated: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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