Graham R Posted October 6 Share Posted October 6 (edited) tried to show where it balances with 4s 3300 battery weight with everything except batteries Finished article. Was geared up for 3s. With 4s I think will still need a bit of weight up front. unfortunately not a lot of room. probably need to ditch carbon u/c. Edited October 6 by Graham R corrections 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Moore 1 Posted October 6 Share Posted October 6 I fly mine on 3S and had to put weight in the nose. I had made the nose/motor housing removeable and from foam so was able to bury lead inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted October 6 Share Posted October 6 CG on the plan is shown at 113mm back from LE so Graham R's model would seem to need to be 30mm further forwards. GrahamR 's is also a little heavier than Delks original ( at 1440 g /50.8oz ) if the 4S 3300 Lipo weighs about 300g. So not a lot of scope for fitting lead for balance but worth seeing how much would be needed to balance at 113mm. Might also be worth seeing if just moving the motor forward temporarily ( with a view to using standoffs ) might achieve enough without hacking the cowl around too much. Otherwise just strapping the 3S3300 onto the outside of fusealge with tape or rubber bands for a trial balance would show just how much (or little) the Lipo would need to be moved forward without using lead. As the 4Max motor was used I wonder whether the rear bit of the shaft was left on and caused the Lipo to be further back than if the shaft was trimmed back flush. Might make all the difference. Personally I wouldn't want to saw off the shaft so I would fit a different make without shaft at back or fit the Lipo lower to avoid it. Graham Moore's model showing similar problems indicates that any other builders might consider extending fuselage forward a bit. Getting the Lipo forward by 25mm (1 inch ) or even less might achieve balance without lead. It would be interesting to know what that model weighed with lead and whether Graham felt it flew really well at that weight anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted October 7 Share Posted October 7 Your’e right kc, quite a lot of the motor shaft extends into the battery area. i need to revisit it sometime. Be interesting to see how others are going to resolve it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Walsh Posted October 7 Share Posted October 7 23 minutes ago, Graham R said: Your’e right kc, quite a lot of the motor shaft extends into the battery area. i need to revisit it sometime. Be interesting to see how others are going to resolve it. Surpass 3542 1000kv motor, you can slacken off the outer can grub screw, move the circlip to the groove on the end of the shaft and tap the shaft through. Use a prop collet to mount the prop. Just done this on a Vans RV 4 with a Surpass 3548 motor. Alternatively a cutting disc on a dremel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted October 7 Share Posted October 7 The 25mm or so that the shaft projects backwards might be taking up enough space to get the lipo forward and balance the model. Some builders of other designs have said about cutting shaft by wrapping motor in tape to keep swarf out and using a Dremel with cutting disc. Personally I would prefer to buy a motor with the shaft the correct end for the model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Field Posted October 8 Share Posted October 8 On 06/10/2024 at 16:19, Graham R said: tried to show where it balances with 4s 3300 battery weight with everything except batteries Finished article. Was geared up for 3s. With 4s I think will still need a bit of weight up front. unfortunately not a lot of room. probably need to ditch carbon u/c. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Field Posted October 8 Share Posted October 8 (edited) Hi I am just about to start building the Chilli Breeze, and reading the posts regarding the need for weight in the nose to get the CG right, the plan shows the options of built up or solid tail is this where the problem is? would like to know which route other builders took, I am leaning now to a fully built up tail including the elevators Edited October 8 by Bob Field Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted October 8 Share Posted October 8 My tailend was all sheet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted October 8 Share Posted October 8 5 hours ago, Bob Field said: Hi I am just about to start building the Chilli Breeze, and reading the posts regarding the need for weight in the nose to get the CG right, the plan shows the options of built up or solid tail is this where the problem is? would like to know which route other builders took, I am leaning now to a fully built up tail including the elevators I usually do 1/8" "ribs" and 1/16" sheet either side. Reasonably light, more rigid than open frame, YMMV as ever. Chilli has a nice long snout which does not suggest it will be difficult to get the CG in the right place. IME (several IC incarnations of the Breeze, IC and electric conversion of the larger one) the CG was not a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted October 8 Share Posted October 8 Bob, the model already requires a joint in the fuselage sides if using 36 inch sheet balsa ( sides are almost 40 inches ) so why not extend the nose an inch or so when you join the sheet? Easier to cut off a bit later than add on! Nigel's rib and sheet method seems a good idea, although with good balsa selection a solid sheet of balsa may be just as light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Field Posted November 18 Share Posted November 18 Hi, I need a bit of advice on the Chilli Breeze wing build, I have not built a tapered wing before and am a bit confused (not surprising at 73) the plan shows only one wing panel and the the build notes states that this wing panel is built upside down, so the wing ribs are set at right angles to the top spar, so this will be the port wing, OK I have got this far, the build notes now state repeat for the other wing panel, if I do, this panel would not being built upside down as this is the starboard wing, so the wing ribs would be at right angles to the bottom spar, or does this not matter? my other concern is the root rib which has to be set for the correct dihedral, is this to achieve a flat top wing profile or tapered at the same angle top and bottom? my thoughts are to make a reverse copy of the plan to build the starboard wing, or trust in the build notes and make two identical wing panels? I would like to hear from others who have built a Chilli Breeze on how they built the wing, and any other tips they may have. Confused.com Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted November 18 Share Posted November 18 To reverse a plan, simply spray it with WD40 and it will become transparent then you can turn it over and build on the reverse side. Others may suggest rubbing it with wax to achieve the same thing but the advantage of WD40 is that it evaporates and eventually disappears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted November 20 Share Posted November 20 On 18/11/2024 at 10:59, Bob Field said: , or trust in the build notes and make two identical wing panels? The notes really mean "build the starboard upside down" - just as you did the port. You don't want two identical port panels! as Andy notes, dose it with WD40 and reverse the plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Wagg Posted November 20 Share Posted November 20 I reverse plans by sticking the plan on a window (patio door) and tracing the lines through to the backside. You only need the basic outline and rib positions. I also have a large glass table, and with a table lamp underneath, it becomes a light box. No need for messy oils etc. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted November 20 Share Posted November 20 The danger with building the second half of the wing upside down is that any error that creeps in during the first half may be reproduced the opposite way leading to a twisted wing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piers Bowlan Posted November 22 Share Posted November 22 On 18/11/2024 at 10:59, Bob Field said: Hi, I need a bit of advice on the Chilli Breeze wing build, I have not built a tapered wing before and am a bit confused (not surprising at 73) the plan shows only one wing panel and the the build notes states that this wing panel is built upside down, so the wing ribs are set at right angles to the top spar, so this will be the port wing, OK I have got this far, the build notes now state repeat for the other wing panel, if I do, this panel would not being built upside down as this is the starboard wing, so the wing ribs would be at right angles to the bottom spar, or does this not matter? my other concern is the root rib which has to be set for the correct dihedral, is this to achieve a flat top wing profile or tapered at the same angle top and bottom? my thoughts are to make a reverse copy of the plan to build the starboard wing, or trust in the build notes and make two identical wing panels? I would like to hear from others who have built a Chilli Breeze on how they built the wing, and any other tips they may have. Confused.com Bob Bob, just google a copy shop or printers and ask them if they can do an A1 size copy in ‘mirror image’ (not reverse). Only cost a few £s. I really can’t be doing with oil or WD40 on the plan to make it translucent, too messy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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