Geoff Gardiner Posted February 14 Author Share Posted February 14 So, flaps next.... I pondered on this for a bit and came up with this method. First off, I 3d printed myself a little slot cutting guide for the hinges which are 3mm beneath the outer surface. Then I prepared the sheeting by soaking/steaming it then wrapping it around a broom handle and left to dry overnight. I fitted one flap with sheeting and then realised it would be easier to fit the 'cricket bat' first, which I did for the other one. Finally, this is how I needed to cut the rib to allow the flap to be fitted. I can patch it up later on. More later... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Gardiner Posted February 16 Author Share Posted February 16 Joining the wings together this evening. I have used aliphatic. More later... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Gardiner Posted February 20 Author Share Posted February 20 Bit more done. Some more sheeting on the wing. Installed the flap servo mounting tray. I have trimmed down the dowel plate to fit. Time will tell if this is the correct approach. Fitted and profiled the remaining leading edge strips. More later... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Gardiner Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 Bit more done: Glued in some extra stringers to the battery hatch. Sorted out the tail wheel. Sheeted the top rear of the fuselage. And the top front. More later... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Gardiner Posted March 3 Author Share Posted March 3 Bit more done: Added some dials to the instrument panel. Fitted the nose block and sheeting to the underside. My method of trimming the cowl. I took advantage of some rare dry weather this afternoon and did a bit of sanding outdoors. More later... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 Very tidy Geoff . Youve got a nice shape on the snout . Better than mine ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Gardiner Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 I've been a bit sidetracked recently with other stuff but have got a bit more done: I decided to make the motor mount/battery box removable in case I decide to fit a sound system at a later date. Next job was to sort the wing mounting. After fitting some m4 bolts into the back of the T-nut, I put some marker pen ink on the ends and then fitted the wing and pressed down to make an imprint. After drilling the holes slightly oversive, I then 3d printed a pair of washers. This allows fine adjustment of the position of the wing by measuring from the tailpost to each wing tip and adjusting until they are the same. The washers are then glued in place. I then made a start on the wing fairings. More later... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Gardiner Posted March 22 Author Share Posted March 22 Bit more done to the wing fairings. More later... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 Nice work Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Gardiner Posted March 23 Author Share Posted March 23 Thanks Ron. I have been watching your Videos and picked up some good tips on brown paper covering, which I think I will give a go on this model. Keep up the good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 Thanks Geoff, I certainly will try! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 I'm enjoying this build Geoff . I agree with Ron . Very nice details . Its a pleasure to watch . On the brown paper front : use a known brand PVA glue, Evostik or white Gorrilla and virtually no dilution with water , maybe 5% . Ive found over the years that its tempting to water the glue down as it spreads easily , but you will definitely get some blisters. Neat glue or nearly neat glue takes more time to paste , but once done its on for good , no wrinkles or blisters . Good luck Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillyg1 Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 Anybody ever tried wallpaper paste, as in the stuff thats already mixed in a tub, talking about on the brown paper, instead of the pva mix. Just a thought as i have a tub on the shelf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 Worth a try . its not heat reactive like PVA so for the cost saving , it may not work out . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 18 hours ago, RICHARD WILLS said: Worth a try . its not heat reactive like PVA so for the cost saving , it may not work out . Richard, can you explain what you mean by heat reactive. What is the reaction when heated, apart from the fact of driving off some water from the emulsion based adhesive. Many thanks Bas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 2 hours ago, Basil said: Richard, can you explain what you mean by heat reactive. What is the reaction when heated, apart from the fact of driving off some water from the emulsion based adhesive. Many thanks Bas Yes Bas , If you paste some PVA on Brown paper or even wood , it will go dry to touch in about 30mins . However if you place the glue side down on another surface and iron the dry side , the heat will turn the glue tacking and then rapidly cool and adhere for good . So , in a way , you have created your own solarfilm . You cant do that with wallpaper paste as far as I know . Apart from brown paper covering the other use for this feature is when adding plywood doublers to fuselage sides . You coat one side of the doublers with PVA . Wait till dry to touch . Align the doubler over the balsa fuselage (glue downward) then iron the doubler down . In this technique the advantages are clear . No clamping or weight required . The two items don't slide around . Unlike contact adhesive , you can adjust position right until heat is applied . Try it on some thin scrap wood . 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Gardiner Posted March 25 Author Share Posted March 25 My glue of choice at the moment is Titebond Original, which I believe is an aliphatic glue. Are aliphatics any good with the brown paper covering method / heat reactivity, or will I need PVA? Cheers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 14 minutes ago, Geoff Gardiner said: My glue of choice at the moment is Titebond Original, which I believe is an aliphatic glue. Are aliphatics any good with the brown paper covering method / heat reactivity, or will I need PVA? Cheers. Possibly, but its an expensive way of doing compared with PVA glue (when you buy 5L of trade stuff). Oh and the other thing if its Tesco (other long rolls of brown paper are available) ..don't buy a couple extra rolls just in case...because you don't waste much in off cuts so it goes a very long way! PS the brown paper stock I now have will out live me! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyer Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 I have pre shrunk the brown paper; that way when you apply it, it does not shrink and distort the surface you have covered. Slightly diluted cheap pva seems to work well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillyg1 Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 (edited) Flyer The method when using brown paper, is to paste it, wait 1 min for it to grow, then apply it wet, so when ironed on it shrinks like appling any film covering, this adding strength to the model. Using a cheap pva - it'll be watered down more, not good as bubbles the paper. Bye a quality brand 😉 and dilute about 5%, Richards just done a write up on this on another thread. Edited March 25 by gillyg1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 15 hours ago, Geoff Gardiner said: My glue of choice at the moment is Titebond Original, which I believe is an aliphatic glue. Are aliphatics any good with the brown paper covering method / heat reactivity, or will I need PVA? Cheers. Dont know about Aliphatics regarding heat reaction . I'd stick to what we know for the covering Geoff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Gardiner Posted April 9 Author Share Posted April 9 Went to do a bit of brown paper covering of the tail assemby and found that the fin and rudder are warped. I have soaked them in hot water for half an hour and they are currently drying on a flat surface under some weight. I will see if this cures the problem. Rounded off the edges of the tailplane and elevators whilst I wait for it to dry. More later... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Gardiner Posted April 10 Author Share Posted April 10 The rudder has straightened out but the fin is proving more of a problem. I have tried steaming it over the kettle to see if that does the trick. I had a try at covering with brown paper today, using white Gorilla PVA glue, and early indications are looking promising. I think I might try water based varnish to seal the paper before painting. More later... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 Geoff , have you tried just wetting the concave side , but keeping the other dry ? That's how they get warped in the first place . One side gets damp and expands while the other stays dry . Try it and see what happens even without the weight after . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piers Bowlan Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 (edited) Geoff, after covering with brown paper I just seal with another coat of slightly diluted PVA before painting. I apply PVA to both sides otherwise the tailplane or fin may warp as it dries. You end up with a smooth satin finish which takes paint well. Edited April 11 by Piers Bowlan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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