Ron Gray Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 I suggest that as each model gets built then any general tips should be added here, such as the fuse side extension pieces, mounting the wing fixing dowel, battery hatch tongue shape etc. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 (edited) After sanding the fuselage top I cut the canopy and found the sides of the fuselage did not come high enough, no great problem to add some balsa from the offcut. Another point when assembling F2 onto the sides and crutch make sure it is vertical as if not it can alter the side length when pulling the sides together at the rear. The canopy fit after adding the strips, just needs sanding Edited January 1 by Ron Gray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 (edited) Is it a case of make your own motor box to suit what the individual has? The motor plate is in the kit mount the motor central, then pack it back from F1 to suit your chosen motor, I used 1/2" balsa made from two laminations off the tail plane scrap. No right or down thrust. Does the battery sit directly between F1 and F2, just seems a long way back, but don't seem to find any photos of others with batteries fitted? Edited January 1 by Ron Gray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 (edited) Is the tang on the battery tray sanded down so the cowl rung fits flush on F1? Sanded flush but with a slight bevel the underside of the tongue so that it can slide into the slot in F1 when the tray is inserted at an angle. Edited January 1 by Ron Gray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 Rear of fuse, fillet to strengthen join Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 Another beginner question: how to shape the tail fin and horizontal stabiliser? I can simply round the leading edge, but what about the trailing edge? Do I carve to a sharp edge like the wing, or something more “blunt”? As usual a picture is worth a thousand words! Round the LE and no need to go mad on the TE shape, in fact it is better if you don't have a razor sharp edge, a blunt square edge will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 20 minutes ago, Ron Gray said: Is it a case of make your own motor box to suit what the individual has? The motor plate is in the kit mount the motor central, then pack it back from F1 to suit your chosen motor, I used 1/2" balsa made from two laminations off the tail plane scrap. No right or down thrust. Does the battery sit directly between F1 and F2, just seems a long way back, but don't seem to find any photos of others with batteries fitted? Ron - I'd suggest trimming those bolt ends which are protruding into the battery compartment - thanks for the pictures and this thread which will be super helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 Not mine Leccy, I'm just cutting and pasting from other's posts into here. (PS I agree, cut the end of the bolts off or glue on some balsa strips to cover them.) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 Is there any reason why the servo pocket is not rotated so that its parallel with aileron hinge line? No, the servo box can be rotated so that the aileron pushrod is at right angles to the aileron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 (edited) Where is the best place for the brown paper covering? Car paint sprayers use it for masking - Amazon sell it in large rolls. Hobbycraft sell smaller rolls for about £2.50. Tesco Edited January 1 by Ron Gray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 Servo mounting using ply off cuts from the kit 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lipo Man Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 To mark a cutting line for the plastic cowl, stack up some offcuts to get a pen to the right height. Put the cowl alongside and upside down. Keep the pen still and slowly rotate the cowl against it to get a perfect line parallel to the front face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 (edited) 😄 1 hour ago, leccyflyer said: Ron - I'd suggest trimming those bolt ends which are protruding into the battery compartment - thanks for the pictures and this thread which will be super helpful. Brian, on mine which is the one shown (which Ron Gray printed without my permission or I would imagine not checking to see if it infringed any copyright) 😆 The battery is unable to move to a position where it would be impaled on the screws. But would recommend it being looked at if a smaller battery was used. Ron a good idea to have this section as I have already replied to questions that have already been covered both in Richard's build and mine. Edited January 1 by Eric Robson 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 Anyone cutting the vacc mouldings for the first time Take great care when cutting with a Stanley knife or scalpel, if you slip and score the plastic it may split on the score mark. Lightly sand the mouldings before painting even if using a plastic primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 2 Author Share Posted January 2 I would add to the above post from Eric, if you’re going to cut the mouldings with a knife then apply some masking tape to the plastic and cut through it, this will help prevent the blade slipping. Before painting the mouldings thoroughly clean them, I use Isopropyl which is readily available from outlets such as Amazon 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 6 minutes ago, Ron Gray said: I would add to the above post from Eric, if you’re going to cut the mouldings with a knife then apply some masking tape to the plastic and cut through it, this will help prevent the blade slipping. Before painting the mouldings thoroughly clean them, I use Isopropyl which is readily available from outlets such as Amazon A much cheaper alcohol than spilling whisky over them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 2 Author Share Posted January 2 The wing to fuselage fairing is a triangular strip of balsa which has to bend to a complex curve To achieve that, using a saw (a razor saw is ideal as it produces thin cuts) cut nearly all the way through the strip with the cuts closer together as the curve tightens towards the LE. These photos are not from the FW190 build but use the same technique. Make sure to place a layer of plastic film (a carrier bag will suffice) between the fuselage and wing so that when the fairing is glued to the fuselage it won’t inadvertently slick to the wing as well! PS don’t worry if the balsa fairing breaks, just glue it in place and when dry a combination of lightweight filler and sanding will hide it! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 2 Author Share Posted January 2 (edited) Tools for cutting out the foam for the servo boxes in the wing. A cheap soldering gun with a bit of bent wire. Heated piece of wire (well ventilated room! And gloves or pliers to hold the wire) Edited January 2 by Ron Gray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flying Squirrel Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 Thanks for this Ron. Another question I have is about motors, lots of mention of 4S 800kv and 2x3s 1100kv but I can't see much in the way of reference to physical (Can?) size? As I've not built up a stash yet I will be buying new so advice apprecaited. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 2 Author Share Posted January 2 (edited) 13 minutes ago, Flying Squirrel said: Thanks for this Ron. Another question I have is about motors, lots of mention of 4S 800kv and 2x3s 1100kv but I can't see much in the way of reference to physical (Can?) size? As I've not built up a stash yet I will be buying new so advice apprecaited. Motor spec will be 35 mm or more likely 42mm can, of any KV from 550 to 900 So typical one could be the Overlander 3548 900kV on 4s swinging an 11x8 - circa 700W Edited January 2 by Ron Gray 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 Mine has a Racestar 4250 800kv on 4s with a 13 x8 prop and it is overpowered at full throttle, half throttle gives a good scale speed. The intention was to use the Overlander 3548 900kv but the one I have was playing up. I don't think there is much difference in weight but my 190 balances without any ballast. Racestar motors seem hard to get now Banggood had them in about £16 but are out of stock, I have seen them on Ebay for twice the price so you may as well get the 3548's from 4 Max or Overlander instead of waiting 3 weeks for delivery. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Quick question, ESC cooling exit air hole location? Photo's please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 3 Author Share Posted January 3 Personally I don’t think it needs one as air can escape upwards through the battery tray but underside of the fuselage behind the wing TE would be fine. If you are concerned about cooling as well as the exit hole you may want to put another couple of holes through F2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Just been flying mine today, esc at one side of the cowl where the holes are in F2. 7 minute flights and 30% left in the battery. Battery and esc barely warm. The only outlet hole apart from the holes in F2 is at the rear of the fuselage where I left off the last piece of sheeting 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flying Squirrel Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Not a build question but does anyone have a link or any info on the fw190 squadron that red 23/13 belong to as I can't find anything, assuming they are not fictional in which case I'll bow my head in shame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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