leccyflyer Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 Good post Chris - I think that discussing all the possible options is exactly what this thread is about and part of the ethos of these models is that there's more than one way to skin a cat. By providing the thought experiments and explanations that you have included it's really going to help folks to work through and work out their own power trains from a sound understanding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted February 15 Author Share Posted February 15 Just following on with the motor / power them, I tested my Overlander 3548 900Kv yesterday and with a 4s battery and spinning a 12x8 APC it was pulling 60a and was showing just over 800w. So an 11x8 prop would also be OK and may save some landing breakages. If you are using the alloy spinners then balance them first, mine was quite a bit out so I rotated the front piece through 180º and that helped but it still needed some balance weight. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted February 15 Author Share Posted February 15 If you have used charcoal to weather / detail your FW then make sure that you seal it before flying as damp grass will wipe the charcoal off! I've used a water based satin floor varnish on mine, with 2 coats on the underside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 On 07/02/2024 at 09:23, Ron Gray said: A word of caution if you are using brown paper to cover your model, even very low tack masking tape and paint mask film can pull off the top layer of the brown paper (don’t ask). So when sticking the mask down only apply sufficient pressure to lightly attach it to the surface! Ron, one of the tricks I use on my airfix models is to stick the masking tape to my trousers a couple of times this takes off some of the grab but still let's it stick. Or use bluetack worms... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 2 Author Share Posted March 2 I think the problem was to do with an over zealous use of the hot air gun to dry the paint, it seemed to make the mask adhesive more adhesive! But I agree that pre sticking it to something first would be a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 6 Author Share Posted March 6 (edited) For those who are still building or haven’t started yet I would strongly recommend strengthening the motor mount plate. I thought mine was split but it turned out that it just flexes a hell of a lot! I’ve now applied, with difficulty, some carbon tow to the back of it and into the fuse sides and the improvement is amazing. If I was building it again I would double the thickness of that plate. Edited March 6 by Ron Gray 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 5 hours ago, Ron Gray said: For those who are still building or haven’t started yet I would strongly recommend strengthening the motor mount plate. I thought mine was split but it turned out that it just flexes a hell of a lot! I’ve now applied, with difficulty, some carbon tow to the back of it and into the fuse sides and the improvement is amazing. If I was building it again I would double the thickness of that plate. I had the same issues with a Ripmax Spitfire so I used a thicker piece of ply for mine, hopefully I won't end up bending the motor adaptor with my big prop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lipo Man Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 A couple of final small tips from me. First, a few people have commented that the firewall plywood is a bit on the thin side. If you want to stiffen it up, and you’ve already glued it in (so it’s too late to swap it for something a bit thicker) then you can glue a bit of leftover ply scrap on the top (and bottom as well if you’re really worried) to add some stiffness. Think of it as being like one of those steel “I” beams. Second, I was struggling to balance the spinner, and I came up with a technique that seems to work. I downloaded a seismometer app for my phone, and set it running to measure vibration. I then put the phone on top of the battery box area (with the hatch removed) and added a few clicks of throttle and got a vibration reading before using the throttle cut switch to stop the motor. I then marked from 1 to 12 around the perimeter of the spinner and added a piece of thick gaffa tape to the position marked 12, flicked throttle cut to “on” and took another reading. I repeated that all the way around the clock to find at what “time” I got the lowest reading. Then stage 2 - I then added more tape at the same place to see if it got better or worse - in my case the reading lowered again. So I kept adding tape until it stopped coming down and started going up again. At that point I removed the last piece of tape and that was my optimum position. I took off the spinner and put the tape on the inside and that was me ready to go flying! 8 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murat Kece 1 Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 Hi Ron, Richard et al I have progressed my build and about to start the motor installation. I have not seen anyone adding any down/right thrust line adjustments. I assume zero adjustment worked for people so far? Is this the case? Or should I add 3 degree down and 3 degree right adjustment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murat Kece 1 Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 I also doubled up on my firewall as suggested. I will post photos soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lipo Man Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 11 minutes ago, Murat Kece 1 said: Hi Ron, Richard et al I have progressed my build and about to start the motor installation. I have not seen anyone adding any down/right thrust line adjustments. I assume zero adjustment worked for people so far? Is this the case? Or should I add 3 degree down and 3 degree right adjustment? Mine is installed straight and seems just right, although so far I've only flown it in pretty windy weather. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 22 minutes ago, Murat Kece 1 said: Hi Ron, Richard et al I have progressed my build and about to start the motor installation. I have not seen anyone adding any down/right thrust line adjustments. I assume zero adjustment worked for people so far? Is this the case? Or should I add 3 degree down and 3 degree right adjustment? No need for down or side thrust, it flies just great as designed. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murat Kece 1 Posted March 17 Share Posted March 17 I came across these on a website. May be useful for those who wants to add cockpit details. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murat Kece 1 Posted March 17 Share Posted March 17 Here are the panels from Thingiverse: fw190_cockpit_ver_2_LOWER_SECTION_v6.stl 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted March 17 Share Posted March 17 Wow , excellent pictures Murat . I can see a "round two " later on in the year with fully detailed Fw190s with retracts and three blade props . I think we may miss the simplicity and forgiving nature of the original though . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 17 Author Share Posted March 17 That’s a good ‘find’ Murat, May have to use some of those when I add some detail to the cockpit, if I can stop flying it for long enough that is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 Yes , I agree . Well done Murat . I particularly like the comparison of the two canopy styles . The "blown " hood , Upper most , having a much higher dome and yet not like our Spitfires and Mustang Malcolm hoods which bulged out sideways too . The Fw190 blown hood was fitted mostly to the long nose Fw190D but also to the last of the radial engined 190s used for ground attack . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 Both look blown to me, same aircraft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lipo Man Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 One final (?) thought from me - if you’re planning on using a dolly for take off, consider using a gyro stabilised receiver if you have one. I’m now using one, and to be clear the plane absolutely doest’t need it to fly well. However, once I’ve taken off I fly downwind then turn back towards myself before flicking the switch to put it into self levelling mode. Then I can walk out and retrieve the dolly (when there’s no one else at the field to help) and I’m not getting worried taking my eyes off the plane to pick it up. One less thing to worry about! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 26 Author Share Posted March 26 36 minutes ago, Lipo Man said: One final (?) thought from me - if you’re planning on using a dolly for take off, consider using a gyro stabilised receiver if you have one. I’m now using one, and to be clear the plane absolutely doest’t need it to fly well. However, once I’ve taken off I fly downwind then turn back towards myself before flicking the switch to put it into self levelling mode. Then I can walk out and retrieve the dolly (when there’s no one else at the field to help) and I’m not getting worried taking my eyes off the plane to pick it up. One less thing to worry about! Or use one of my new self powered and flight controller / GPS equipped ones that automatically returns to base! Having said that, if you're flying on your own take off at a slight angle so that the dolly runs off to the side leaving enough room to land, if you're with flying buddies get one of them to retrieve it for you! 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 Our strip has an electric fence to keep the sheep away, flying on my own I take off just before the fence , the dolly generally rolls over the fence (which is on the ground) leaving the strip clear for landing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 Yep, when using the dolly most times I take off so that it runs off into the long grass. If it stays on the strip, so be it, the dolly is small and light and ought not interfere with anything. Generally there's someone who can retrieve if if that is the case, I frequently retrieve other flyer's dollies if they are in the middle of the strip. Never in a million years would I ever attempt to retrieve the dolly whilst flying the model and I've never seen it attempted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 It must be difficult to maintain LOS with a plane whilst looking at the ground........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 27 Author Share Posted March 27 17 minutes ago, leccyflyer said: I frequently retrieve other flyer's dollies When they fall out of the pram I presume? 18 minutes ago, leccyflyer said: I've never seen it attempted You obviously haven’t watched my vids then Brian, shame on you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 Talking about IRL Ron, where R=Real, not R=Ron's 😉 Avid subscriber to Gray-O-Vision. 🙂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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