Mike Freeman Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 (edited) I'm really pleased to see my St8us flying wing design is being featured in the April 2025 issue. It's built entirely from Foamboard, card and brown paper, there's no traditional building materials in there at all! As the construction is a little unorthodox I thought I'd start a thread here to answer any questions and discuss any mods that have evolved. As soon as the April issue hits my door mat I'll start adding some additional details and new ideas that have materialised since I sent the package to Kevin. Hopefully these will make the construction a little easier (it isn't difficult to build, just a bit different!!) and help anyone thinking of giving one a go a head start! Cheers Mike Edited March 11 by Mike Freeman 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 1 hour ago, Mike Freeman said: I'm really pleased to see my St8us flying wing design is being featured in the April 2025 issue. It's built entirely from Foamboard, card and brown paper, there's no traditional building materials in there at all! As the construction is a little unorthodox I thought I'd start a thread here to answer any questions and discuss any mods that have evolved. As soon as the April issue hits my door mat I'll start adding some additional details and new ideas that have materialised since I sent the package to Kevin. Hopefully these will make the construction a little easier (it isn't difficult to build, just a bit different!!) and help anyone thinking of giving one a go a head start! Cheers Mike Yes please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 Some people might find it handy to know in advance what materials to have in stock - size of board, glue used and what motor/fan unit it needs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Learner Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 Haven't bought RCM&E for years, but that looks interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 Looks ace Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Freeman Posted March 17 Author Share Posted March 17 My April issue arrived this morning and I'm really pleased to see my St8us in print! As promised here are some more details and explanations. First we must talk about the foamboard product. Sadly, it isn't like balsa which comes in soft, medium or hard! It appears different manufacturers use different methods to produce something that all look very similar! The prototype St8us' were built using Westfoam foamboard which has turned out to be a very versatile product and would be my first choice if I could find a convenient outlet! I mention in the article the alternative, un-named foamboard "Hobbycraft" have been selling recently which can be used but is a little less convenient. I have since discovered that "The Range" sell foamboard manufactured by "Art Studio" and I have tried this. Thankfully it does react to heat but the samples I bought are 5.5mm thick so if using this a little trimming of components might be necessary. If you do an internet search for "Westfoam" ignore the stuff sold on Amazon by "Protectafile" as I tried it and it is similar to the Hobbycraft stuff that needs soaking in water to remove. I've contacted Westfoam and asked them for some details of outlets and I'll pass on any info I receive. Now down to some details..... On page 55 there are photos of a tool that needs to be made to trim the efflux nozzle. The blade needs to be 20mm off the building board. Dead easy with accurate 5mm foamboard but if using one of the others you'll have to trim or build the tool from balsa. On the plan I show a slot in the top wing skin for the fins. Due to the different foamboard thickness options I had to show a narrow slot which is opened up when the wing is folded up and glued. In truth this is a bit of a fiddle and I've subsequently thought of a better idea which means the slot is positioned accurately irrespective of the foamboard used and is cut out in one go. Hopefully the attached photos will show the idea - once the paint patches identify the four corners of the slot simply push pins through to the top skin, join the dots and cut out! you can use the bottom of the fin on the drawing as the slot marker and trim to the profile in the photos. Let me know if anything needs explaining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Freeman Posted March 17 Author Share Posted March 17 On 11/03/2025 at 16:02, kc said: Some people might find it handy to know in advance what materials to have in stock - size of board, glue used and what motor/fan unit it needs. Thanks KC, Three A1 sheets of 5mm foamboard are needed and that will leave probably half a sheet spare to practice on or try again as you learn how to handle it. I found UHU POR and Gorilla Glue Clear best for most of the build but I used the expanding (brown) Gorilla Glue for gluing the top skin onto the ribs and spar when folding the wing up. The recommended equipment is... 4-Max 50mm PowerFun 3S 5400kV EDF 4-Max 50A ESC 4-Max 3S 1800mAh Lipo Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Futura57 Posted March 17 Share Posted March 17 Congratulations @Mike Freeman on getting your design published in RCM&E. I'm still waiting for my copy to arrive before I can read your article. I had my first design published last June (also put out as a free online issue last year). I've been working on another, a foam EDF, coincidentally. Too many distractions for me at the moment to write a build article. Good luck with it all. 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted March 17 Share Posted March 17 Hi Mike Freeman, Still waiting for April rcme to land in whsmiths... Do "the range" stock the foam board in A1 size ? My closest branch are not good at stock levels. Product numbers...or at least these were the stock numbers in Bangor branch North Wales before the students went back to uni... A1 white foam board 823 571 A2 white foam board 823 578 A3 white foam board 823 576 A2 black foam board 823 580 A3 black foam board 823 579 A4 black foam board 823 581 Sometimes if you phone your local branch, a nice girl will interogate the computer to see if any is in stock for you. Are single A1 sheets needed ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 (edited) Finally got the copy of the rcme mag.....did not see anywhere that the article was spread over 2 mags, apart from right at the end of the article, but you would have to buy the mag to read that eh ! Sadly WHS ain't a library. Nice marketing ploy rcme, but the next issue has info on budget tx's 😇?? cannot wait....... Edited March 24 by Rich Griff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Stopher Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 I have started the build for this model, and having an interesting time: one question - why are card linings shown in the fin slots, if the fins are glued in place? Is it so that the fins are removable? Doesn't seem to make sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Stopher Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 Just for general interest: I am using balsa instead of foam for the wing spars and also partly for the ribs, and probably also for the wing joining piece. A little more weight, but with such a thin wing I am happier with an arrangement that should be stronger than all-foam. I also feel that the ribs can be more accurately cut in balsa. Am I being pedantic or what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Freeman Posted March 26 Author Share Posted March 26 (edited) Hi David, Thanks for the interest in St8us. Yes, I made the fins removable on the original so they can be removed and replaced if they get damaged. Card is added as a lining to strengthen the slot and extra card can be added to form an interference fit. For added security tape can be added to the tab that slots into the bottom skin and stuck to the bottom skin to hold the fins in place. Alternatively they could be glued in but would then be difficult to replace if required. My prototypes have been fine with the spar and joiner shown on the plan even with lots of abuse but balsa alternatives should work fine too if preferred. I must admit I wanted to make a feature of the model being made entirely from foamboard and brown paper. I can’t imagine too many people will make up the control horns as shown on the plan and will substitute plywood instead! 🤣😂 Cheers Mike Edited March 26 by Mike Freeman Typing mistake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Stopher Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 Thanks for the prompt response, Mike. All clarified, and the build continues. BTW, the concept of removing card to reduce weight is new to me, and I had no ideal that this board type allowed removal by iron (very easy) - great lateral thinking indeed. My earlier build of a Flightest Verso wing, which was fun to build and flies well, has helped with this current build, but the Verso, put together mainly with hot glue, is much heavier of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Freeman Posted March 26 Author Share Posted March 26 You’re welcome David, I look forward to hearing how you get on. It’s an unorthodox build but quite rewarding I found. What other hobbies throw up curved balls like this!! incidentally, where did you get your foamboard from please? During the design development I was getting mine from Hobbycraft but the stuff they sell now doesn’t work with a warm iron. Rather annoying as the Westfoam they used to sell was great to work with. The Range sell some that works. I bought some A4 sheets to experiment with but A1 sheets are a bit harder to find. If you know of someone else that sells stuff that works it would be great to hear!! Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 "The range " white foam board in A1 size has a product number of 823 571. The Bangor branch of the range in North Wales had a shop floor computer for staff to interogate for stock levels and what it reckons is actually in stock. No biggy as most if not all modern shops have a similar system. If one phoned ones local branch of the range and asked nicely, a member of staff could check if they have the article in question, A1 foam board, in stock, and could reserve it for you. Last time I was in my local branch, some 3 bus rides away, they did not have A1 white foam board in stock. A revisit to the range and bandq is about to happen next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Freeman Posted March 26 Author Share Posted March 26 Thanks Rich. The A4 sample I picked up from my Range shop is 5.5mm thick so I assume the A1 sheets will be the same. The plan refers to the original Westfoam board that is 5mm thick and the new stuff Hobbycraft sell which is 6mm thick so, if using the Range foamboard at 5.5mm a little bit of extrapolation will be required. Cheers Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Freeman Posted March 26 Author Share Posted March 26 (edited) David’s post above highlights that I didn’t make it clear the fins are removable. Apologies for that!! Here are a few pictures to explain how tape can be used to hold the fins in place. I used coloured tape for clarity. If I was going to do it I’d use clear tape but an interference push fit has worked fine for me so far!! Cheers Mike Edited March 26 by Mike Freeman Duplicate images added 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Stopher Posted April 12 Share Posted April 12 St8tus build: Some points from my build, now about 90% complete, which may be useful for other builders: Servo dimensions have dictated horns and rods fully outside the wing surface - I actually prefer this, despite the aerodynamic cost, as accessibility and adjustment is easier. I have also made the servos removable (thin ply plates screwed to underwing surface with thin ply framing on the inside of the foamboard) for servicing/replacement. On the same theme, I have added a (similarly reinforced) small hatch to the rear of the battery hatch, for access to the electronics - this hatch is screwed in place as it will not normally need to be opened unless there's a problem, to which Murphy's law will of course apply. We all know that maximum access to the innards will sooner or later be needed on any model. I had some trouble working out how the mandrel was used for the motor unit installation - maybe the second part of the article will make this clearer for other builders (with some photos?). Still having great fun building this, and the maiden is not far away! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Freeman Posted April 13 Author Share Posted April 13 Hi David, Thanks for the update. I'm pleased you are enjoying building your St8us, it is certainly an unconventional build!! It's probably a bit late for you now but there's a copy of the full article on the modelflying home page including the photos you wished for. I'm impressed you worked it out without the photos!! 😁 I'm looking forward to seeing your finished model and good luck with the maiden!! Cheers Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Stopher Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 St8us build update: Build complete but not maidened/trimmed yet. Finished with emulsion paint and foam-compatible sealer (all from the workshop shelves). I have never been one for perfect finishing, but some stickies make it look slightly presentable. Photos attached show: exposed servo gubbins, extra hatch at rear, removable servo mounts, and temporary access points for sorting out the C.o.G via battery location and nose lead (some needed as I am using existing 3S 1000mah lipos). Flying any time soon, weather permitting. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Freeman Posted April 20 Author Share Posted April 20 Hi David, You’ve done a lovely job there!! She looks ready to go. I hope the maiden goes well! Those access hatches are a good idea for maintenance but please be aware raw foamboard edges don’t like getting wet, water soaks onto the edge of the card and starts to come away. Great whilst building but not after!! Hopefully you’ve lined the openings to prevent water getting in. It’s great to see another St8us out there and I hope you enjoy yours as much as I do mine. Cheers Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Stopher Posted April 21 Share Posted April 21 Mike, Your comment on foam edges noted - being a bit lazy, I used the thinned aliphatic to seal the elevon trailing edges and hatch edges. Not as neat as paper, but should provide enough protection - we shall see. Another point while I am here: I found that the iron at around 100C (carefully employed) was effective in curving the board foam for the motor cowl work. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted April 21 Share Posted April 21 @Mike Freeman- would you be the Mike Freeman who designed 'Finale' back in the day? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Freeman Posted April 22 Author Share Posted April 22 (edited) Hi Mike, Yes, that’s me!! Finale was the plan feature in the April 1988 issue of Radio Modeller. Blimey!! There’s a blast from the past!! Cheers Mike Edited April 22 by Mike Freeman Wrong month quoted! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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