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David Ovenden

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Everything posted by David Ovenden

  1. Not sure if this helps, but I built a 62" span Doublet twin designed by Denis Tapsfield . That was quite adequately powered by 2 HB20 engines. So maybe 2 OS20 engines would be enough for your 60" model?
  2. I always have my flaps on a slider, but don't use servo slow. That way you can control the speed of deployment with your finger - as fast or slow as you want or need. Works for me, but probably won't suit everyone.
  3. I agree that the silver finish looks much better than the camouflaged version. Silver Chipmunks from RAF Manston used to fly over my house all the time when I was a lad. Never saw a camouflaged one though!
  4. Taken on Wednesday after some more successful flights.
  5. You should try something new and build an EDF. So do the TSR2!
  6. Firstly, there are notches in the upper bracket that locate over the oleo retaining screws. Second I will drill the brackets and oleo to take small self tapping screws to fix them. Or I could just epoxy the brackets to the legs.
  7. Made up some brackets to secure the u/c doors to the oleo legs. The items supplied on the kit were only suitable for piano wire uc legs.
  8. Maybe OS use Japanese Industry Standard. http://www.motorcycle.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/101617-japanese-screwdrivers-JIS-vs-Phillips-633x490.jpg Looking at a JIS tool next to a regular Phillips screwdriver, most people are hard-pressed to tell the differences, but they are definitely there. Ninety-percent of the time, a regular Phillips will work on a JIS screw; but it’s that other 10% that gets us swearing, then throwing things – those tight screws holding on your carburetor float bowls being particularly devilish once they’re past about two decades of non-removal. That’s when the right tool can make all the difference. The right tool is a JIS screwdriver, which just fits better in a JIS screwhead and is designed to let you apply more torque than a Phillips driver. I use heat and WD40 to help get "difficult" sews out. And I never use fuel containing castor oil!
  9. Belt and braces myself. I drill and tap GF/plastic engine mounts and use cap head hex socket screws into the tapped holes with nyloc nuts underneath as well. Then the bolts never come loose!
  10. The model is nearly ready to test. Does anyone who has built and flown one of these have any advice on whether the throws and CG in the manual are accurate. If not what did you end up using?
  11. Indeed, it's only the one page on this site and it doesn't happen on other sites either.
  12. It has always been like that for me on my Samsung tablet. I reported it and was told the techies would look into it. But it never improved. As you say Peter, it's white text on an off-white background which renders it all but unreadable. I have to just guess where to tap on the screen.
  13. A reminder of the uninspired scheme on the standard Seagull kit.
  14. Paul, this will have my Saito 115 4 stroke in it so it's not electric. I was just making the point that it's an older kit made before Seagull adapted their designsl to be "electric friendly" Mine will be glow powered so don't worry. You will not be alone!
  15. Well , not so much a make-over as a build with a modified paint scheme. I recently picked up an unstarted Seagull Sea Fury kit from a modeller who was giving up. Obviously these kits have been out of production for quite a while, and the kit is not quite up to current standards. For example, it has no electric provision (mounts / battery space etc) and no removable top hatch. Danny F and others have some time back detailed modifications for electric and demonstrated that the model can be redone in other paint schemes. So far I have fitted some HK electric retracts and oleos in place of the supplied mechanical units with wire legs. I have increased the wheel wells to take proper size wheels (3.5"). And repainted the model to disguise the pretty boring and unconvincing film finish it came with. I have decided on a Dutch naval scheme and am modelling 860which was part of the 1959 Dutch Naval aerobatic team that used Sea Furies. I feel its a much nicer scheme than the Canadian racing colours supplied as standard. Eagled eyed will see I have the cowl on upside down 098 instead of 860!
  16. is it possible the tin needed more stirring/mixing.? The matting element in the paint can tend to stick to the bottom of the tin.
  17. Thanks to everyone for their very helpful replies. I contemplating the Silhouette Cameo as it seems to come with useful software to give plenty of flexibility
  18. Anyone got experience of using a "home" (rather than semi-professional) plotter cutter for making registration letters/numbers from self adhesive vinyl? If so, what are machine you using and what software to drive it? What are pitfalls? It may not be worthwhile getting one, but the theoretical ease of cutting letters and professional finish of items appeals. Thanks
  19. Danny, I regularly fly four stroke powered models as well as electric ones. I am always more nervous test flying a new electric model than one powered by a four stroke engine. You will be fine I'm sure. Look forward to seeing the photos.
  20. An update on the FW 190 retracts issue. I have managed to source a new, but well discounted, set of the now-discontinued E-Flite 60-120 retracts with 81degree retract angle. These were designed (I think) for the H9 ME109 kit. Good news is they fit easily into the Black Horse FW 190 model and the oleo struts that come with the kit are a perfect fit in the E Flite retracts. It gives nearly the correct angled look (81 degrees vs. 75 degrees) when extended and the wheels sit nicely on the ground when down. The info might help someone else wanting to replace the air units on the BH kit.
  21. Danny the wing lettering was good too. I will get some better pics when the model is asembled properly outside. I may not have got the placement of lettering completely correct, but it gives the model a much more authentic look.
  22. I was too preoccupied at the field to remember to take photos! Here is a quick snap taken in the workshop.
  23. Successful test flight with the Chipmunk. I need to work on my 3- point landings though as this model seems quite prone to bounce on landing! Thanks to Danny for the "671 lettering" that looks great.
  24. Personally I agree entirely with what has been said so far . I'll always mount my servos in-line with the pushrod axis for all the reasons previously stated. However, back in the day(1981) R.H.Warring no less was suggesting either method was OK. Photo from his book "Radio Control for Modellers".
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