Bob Cotsford

Ford Torneo/Grand Torneo/S max/Galaxy?

Isn't there a delta comparison in logical switches that could be used as a trigger for this? Near the bottom of the page

Sort out the rudder horn and the snake should work ok, otherwise push a length of 1.5mm wire through from the wing opening to feel for the number of formers. I'd guess probably just one at the rear of the radio bay and possibly one at the elevator/rudder LE. As for TP996Rs, I have found them to be OK servos. Good torque but not fast. I used them in Acrowot and WotsWot XLs and had no problems with them. They're overkill for twin elevator servos where a pair of HB225s would do the job for half the weight but would be ok on rudder.

"I simply pop my parts in the oven when she's out! " - sorry Martin, just my warped sense of humour at play. Still trying to get THAT image out of my head! Ovens and engine parts - yes, done that myself, 10 minutes at 200C when getting bearings in or out. Biggest was a Bonneville crankcase which I'd not fully degreased. Oven chips were off the menu for a week or two after that one?.

It's not V1/V2/Access, it's the change from the iXJT tx module to the ISRM one. ISRM still works for ACCST V1 and V2 but only in D16 mode, Access is just a bonus.

I found self-adhesive neoprene sheets on E-bay which I used to line some ammo boxes for LiPo storage. It was available in 2 and 4mm thicknesses iirc.

Certainly for receivers at least there's a link at the bottom of the firmware download section 'history firmware download' which takes you to the V1 firmware page. For example, for the X8R: Luckily there are links like Matty's for the iXJT firmware as I don't think FrSky ever published them separately from the FrOS downloads.

That'll teach me to speed read posts!

Are they slotted flaps Ron?

I thought it went back to building (barns etc) from marks scratched onto the ground?

I had one shear a few years ago, I put it down to overtightening the locknut. I'd go with JD8 on the nut stopping the valve closing.

On the home page it says that the on-sale date is the 18th, are you sure it was the July edition that you saw?

Throttle back! If it drifts backwards then add down trim and a little more throttle.

MIL lived just outside Worthing so with great trepidation we took her to Plumpton for a day out. She loved it!

4 channels was just showing off!? It should be just fine without a rudder.

A Peter Russell 362 or the larger 363 would be easy to convert for electric depending on what size model you are looking for.

I used similar size 18gm Emax servos on my Crescent Tornado and they were fine so 4.6Kg.cm Savox ones will certainly be good enough.

There's no real lower limit with electric motors, they will just draw less current and may be be a little less efficient (ie a higher %ge of the electric power is motor losses rather than propeller power). Motor speed is set by the supply voltage. Glow motors have minimum prop sizes as they will overrev.

Odd that as my X9D, X10S and X12S all have good range! What RSSI level do you get at 30 paces in range check mode? ps - Access warning levels should be 35 and 32 ie lower than ACCST.

In my opinion straightforward battery voltage is your best bet if you have nothing more sophisticated. 6.6v will give a safe warning level though it can also give false warnings if servo movement causes a momentary dip. A better bet is to charge the LiFe pack before flying!

As I believe Ash was talking about the Rx voltage I've tested receivers (FrSky) down to 3v, at which point the servos have no power at all. I set LiFe alarms at 3.3v per cell for 2 seconds as the initial low battery warning and 3.1v for the Battery Critical warning. The 2 seconds allows for the momentary drops when running digital servos.

John, thanks for putting your head above the parapet. We thank you for your service as the Yanks like to say?

I've got the side extensions on and as a thumber it feels nice John, suitably solid with everything falling to hand - or finger- with the exception of the side sliders which to me are upside down. The actuating arm is on top whereas I'd rather operate them with a forefinger from underneath. It's not a big issue as I use them for flaps and there's enough of a tab on the back to control them fairly easily. The plastic X20 sticks feel fine, I'd not even thought about them not being 10 bearing all metal units like the S series transmitters. One other point to remember if sharing models between Horus and Tandem is the the right pot on a Horus is P3, on the Tandem it's P2 and P3 is the red central slider. I've been setting gyro gain on the right pot with volume assigned to the T5 trim button and throttle cut on the 6 pos switch so I need to rethink my strategy there. I guess I'd better look up how to set up sticky throttle cuts!

After a night to cogitate and a quick play - transfers work just fine. Provided the model doesn't reference the 6-pos switch (X10/12S) or 6 custom buttons (X20)! I've raised an issue on Github to see if anything can be done as I use the 6-pos as throttle lock on all my models.

Yes, there are a few suggestions on Github as to how it could be handled. I've just discovered that copying models from an X10S to the X20 doesn't work - another basic function that should have been tested before selling transmitters. Early days, eh?