GrumpyGnome

This seems akin to FCA/FSA regs regarding firmware/software updates ,......... If a manufacturer/supplier says "this is an update that must be applied for reasons a b and c", then you have to do it. As a financial organisation, you can,and will,be fined if you don't do it, or don't produce a credible plan when challenged or audited. However, if a manufacturer says, for example, this firmware upgrade will allow you to display pretty stars on your ATM screens", they really don't care. One would hope that even the CAA are differentiating in his way! E.G. "this firmware upgrade prevents flying at a range in excess of 1 nautical mile from the transmitter without inputting a code from the CAA" is compulsory; "this firmware upgrade allows 128 mixes instead of 64", it is not compulsory. Grumpy-i am an optimist really-Gnome

I guess the key is '...when required by the manufacturer....' - like a car safety recall, or critical security update for productivity software....

Happy to be corrected 🙂

Beware the fumes....... which I believe are nasty

OpenX and EdgeTX aren't entirely interchangeable. The last version of OpenTX (2.3.15 - which I assume you're trying to upgrade to.... you didn't respond to my question) says that support for your radio is 'coming soon'..... as development of OpenTX has stopped, this won't happen. EdgeTX looks like it does support your radio, and is actively supported and developed. Personally, I'd use EdgeTX - works pretty much the same as OpenTX so there's no steep learning curve....

Have you tried to update OpenTX, or EdgeTX? What release version?

Have to say I no longer notice the adverts......

In relation to using tape as an option..... Probably not. Ensuring no gaps/overlaps would be challenging, and compound curves (Spitfires are. renowned for them) would likely be a nightmare

Very hot water works to an extent... but if not, insert a carbon strip into the side with a crease - horizontal cut then push the strip in. Flood with Cyano, whack on some kicker.

Much as I tried, I couldn't fix this..... Ford Mondeo 1 Wot4 0

We're going to struggle to suggest shops in your neck of the woods I'm afraid... RCGroups is possibly a better resource. No idea what shipping/import costs from UK/Europe would be like. If you're going to build a static model, you may want to make friends with someone local with a 3d printer, who can print parts for you that are perfect for your model. You or he/she will need to do some 3d modelling of course! Again, for a static model, you won't need to worry about weight so flaps, undercarriage, sliding canopy, opening hatches (like a plastic model) could be on the cards. This is where we could advise on specifics...

Welcome to the forum. Sorry if we're coming across as negative. Ever since I started in this hobby decades ago, it's been common for people to want to fly a Spitfire (surprised not a P51...), but get advised to learn to fly, and gain experience, on other types first. Spitfires need some respect which comes from experience. We don't know if your plan is just that, so we may be doing you a dis-service! Warbirds tend to be relatively heavy for their size, and adding stuff to a model at the lower end of the size range can only increase this weight, making it less likely to be easy or pleasant to fly. If you want to build it as a flying model, for some stage in your flying journey, we'll be happy to provide advice on anything you wish. North american terms, and uk terms..... Gas - petrol Nitro - glow Electric - electric ! Vertical stabilizer - fin Horizontal stabilizer - tailplane That's a charming boat you've made, nice workmanship - looks like you'll be more than ok with the woodworking aspect of your build!

Out of curiosity, why don't you balance charge them? My own (limited) experience has been poor - although both packs came in used models; all other aspects of the models showed good care and maintenance, so I had no reason to doubt them. They both refused to balance, making me distrust them.

I have a few 'smaller' ones, and find space more of an issue than weight tbh. Need to place things carefully, to avoid balance challenges - and yet more weight. Another pro, and a way to increase space, is they they are less thirsty, so you can trade off longer flight times for a smaller fuel tank. Worst aspect is definitely the noise - good noise reduction can add significantly to the cost. Stock silencers seem to serve only to direct the hot gases! Although still loud, the noise of larger ones is, to my ears, less offensive than from smaller ones.

Seaweed most definitely eaten in Wales in the 50s - laverbread. 'orrible stuff.

Pros: fuel is cheap; they are very reliable; they make little mess (once run in and on correct fuel mix); generally less obtrusive exhaust (see below, and compared to a 2 stroke glow) Cons: noisy!; not as powerful as equivalent glow 2 stroke - closer to glow 4 stroke; vibration; need to carry an extra battery for ignition, plus cdi; beware of spurious RF rubbish Stinger engines are Chinese made and used to be sold as RCGF (prior to that they may have been VVRC.. There's little choice in petrol engines under 20cc, but if you go 20cc or bigger, I personally feel DLE's are far better - much easier to tune, and generally feel better made. RCGF/Stingers used to be very cheap, but their price has been increasing as they become more popular. I have a few because of cost, and lack of noise restrictions. I also have an old Evo10 - which Horizon Hobby made to look, and run, like a glow engine. Earlier versions had a slightly...... delicate ...... carb but later versions were pumped. Once I had mine finally tuned, it was a great little engine, albeit surprisingly messy. I don't do anything to my fuel, other than chuck in some 2 stroke oil. I do fly quite often so don't have 'stale' fuel. Or dried diaphragms in the carbs. P.S. I am not an expert and rely heavily on a club mate 🙂

AFAIK, spares are available in this country if you're impatient, and from China if you aren't. Given it's weight, and position of the prop, it's unlikely to become unusable tbh (not like EFlite 🙂 )

Cool and breezier yesterday - getting worse from flat calm, and sunshine at 9:00.... Arrived at 10:00 ish to grey clouds, no sun, cool breeze. PT was already there flying out his dozen batteries before going to garden for his neighbours. Flew his Eflite T28, Arrows Viper, and Parkzone Extra 200 - all like he'd stolen them! I gave my TimberX a rare outing - PT loved how it tied itself in knots if you push all the sticks to any corner. The wind blew it over once it had successfully landed and rolled out, snapping the top of the rudder................... I'd run out of batteries by then anyway. Flew my Seagull CAP which goes much much better on a 15cc petrol, than the recommended 10. Typically Seagull, the undercarriage pulled out on what was quite a gentle landing 😞 Now fixed. I then flew my Seagull Stearman with a DLE 30. It flew much better with its bigger engine, and the 'built in' upthrust removed 😒

The rationale for recommending the Ranger is as follows. It is small and light. It will bounce. Yes, you need to keep it close but as it's slow, that shouldn't be a major problem. Yes, light winds restrict it - probably best for an absolute beginner. EVERYTHING is in the box - no need to buy anything else except maybe a couple of batteries. Can't go wrong buying the wrong stuff. It is small enough to fly away from a club environment, or massive field, opening up more locations. It is light enough to be exempt from CAA approval, and to not cause damage in the inevitable crashes. It has multiple stabilization modes built in, to build confidence. It won't break the bank! I know most of us will have learnt on 'traditional' models, but time moves on 🙂

Totally agree - adding additional stress is pointless.....as experience builds, so does the weather window

Funnily enough,my Hawk had a rare outing today....old, battered, but flies absolutely beautifully on 3 cells

Glad you're happy @toto that's the main thing.

Another beautiful day in East Riding Of Yorkshire.... and quite busy! Before the photos, PH was flying. After the photos, KM and BN arrived.... maybe some others later. (The dodgy Super Chippy landing can be blamed on having just one flap working... 🙂 ) VID-20250301-WA0000.mp4 VID-20250301-WA0005.mp4 VID-20250301-WA0000.mp4 VID-20250301-WA0000.mp4 VID-20250301-WA0006.mp4 VID-20250301-WA0006.mp4 VID-20250301-WA0005.mp4 VID-20250301-WA0000.mp4

Something like this... https://www.rcgeeks.co.uk/products/volantex-ranger-600-glider-3ch-600mm-brushed-plane-rtf All you need in a box - tough, light, easy to fly. You may want an extra battery or two. Restricted to light winds at first. No CAA reg needed, but 3rd party insurance is highly recommended. Consider ALL of it, including the transmitter, disposable...... You'll probably get lots of other, quite different, recommendations!

OK, if you're really going it alone, you'll have lots more questions - keep them coming! If you live in the UK, for a model of that size, you need to comply with CAA regulations - visit the BMFA Website for details. It would also be very sensible to arrange insurance - I think the majority of us get our insurance from the BMFA.... another reason to visit their website. Have you found somewhere suitable to fly? When I was between clubs, this was always a challenge, and I can't imagine it's become easier. You may also want to consider something more..... disposable.... for your first foray. It would be heart-breaking to spend weeks/months on your model to have it last just a few seconds in the air..... ask, and we'll recommend some. You could teach yourself to fly in parallel with building......