GrumpyGnome

You could lay it flat, weigh down the corners, and blow warm air over it. ... although tbh, it should be so thin that it not being flat will not be an issue.

Are you assuming everyone has an A certificate? I don't and have been flying safely for 45+ years......

I snapped my achilles tendon stumbling off a kerb..... wasn't even drunk......

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354096624986 this is the one I bought - works with all the txs I have with a trainer socket - an old EFlite heli tx, a FlySky tx), a Taranis, and a MicroZone tx. Can't get my Radiomaster to work with it....... It took about 10 days to arrive. Ebay currently lists similar items from UK sellers - type 'simulator cable'........ If you look on RCGroups here https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2382571-User-Built-Models-for-PhoenixRC you can download Phoenix (and update to 'final' version), plus download tons of models and flying sites.

That's a nice design.....

Phoenix is a decent sim. There may be a Phoenix model here https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2382571-User-Built-Models-for-PhoenixRC

All good advice from Simon - especially the final piece about clubs! You may find that there is a small piece of tubing already on each control rod - this can be used instead of cable ties - slide it onto the clevis so it keeps it closed, but not so close to the horn on the control surface that it stops it moving (a good instructor will check this..) Or you may find some pieces in the hardware pack..... Not sure if you know what expo is - if so, ignore this..... expo will 'soften' the movement of the planes control surfaces when the transmitter sticks are near the centre, so that stick movements near the centre have less of an impact than those when the sticks near their extremes. This makes flight smoother; the amount is a personal choice so you/your instructor may want to change it.

Ah, unlikely to be the cold then! A Wattmeter will be able to tell you if the batteries 'sag' under load (large voltage drop), but as you don't know what the motors used to draw, you'll probably learn little else. I think we're shooting in the dark a little tbh. As it's multiple planes having this issue, with multiple packs, it's LIKELY to be something that's common, hence the suggestions re tx and charger. Let's consider this piece by piece.... a) Transmitter; If someone has been tampering, I'd expect either all planes to be affected, or just the one that was selected at the time.... are just these two models affected? Have you changed anything? If so, change it back and see if that helps. b) Charger; if this has issues, it's likely to affect all battery packs, and all planes. In your first post, you talk of 'new fully charged batteries' - do these planes have the same issue with older, fully charged packs? If all packs, in all planes, have issues, then it's likely to be the charger. c) Batteries; if these planes perform ok on older packs, then it sounds like your new batteries are at fault. d) ESC; have you changed anything to do with the esc's on the affected planes? If so, can you change it back and see if that helps? It seems unlikely for two escs to suddenly show the same behaviour, but can you try a different esc to see if that helps? e) Connections; it may sound daft, but check all your connection between battery, esc and motors. f) Propeller; I assume these are in good condition? g) Motor; this is all that's left now. Brushless motors are simple things, and any drop in performance is almost certainly a mechanical issue (bearings, magnets, shaft, friction, windings). Whilst it's unusual for 2 motors to show the same problem (or two escs for that matter) , it could just be a Lemony Snickett moment! Carefully inspect the installation - all firmly fixed? Any movement in any direction other than rotating the propeller? Turn it slowly by hand, and listen for any grinding/rubbing noises; feel for any grabbing, or unusual movement. Finally, if all seems OK, remove a motor, and inspect the windings and magnets for any issues, like rust or excessive dust. Hopefully, this will help track down the issue.

My little DLG has a piece of springy wire between rudder and fin, and tailplane and elevator, which set the control surface to be deflected one way. A single dacron cable per control surface then runs to the servo so it pulls it to the required position, against the springiness.

A couple of grams for a servo at the front, with a pull line on a spring loaded hook sounds light - it's what's used on DLGs after all. Personally, I'd have it controlled separately, to avoid having it pulled off on every take off and landing, especially on grass 🙂

Not being a heli expert (although I have a couple), I'd say 'no, you need proper pitch and throttle curves on throttle stick'. For my helis, I've downloaded the model setups for my EdgeTX radio from forums - US forums, although there may be some Ethos heli users on here.........

Indeed, had a few receivers from them. £20 for a cable, with no wait, sounds ok to me.

70 flights is nothing for a brushless motor..... afaik, the only thing in the motor that could affect performance is the bearings. A drop of oil needed perhaps? Or maybe a loose magnet. Seems a coincidence for multiple motors to be affected though. Are you using your batteries 'cold'? Performance is often noticeably worse in the cold.

Eek. Regular inspection needed.........

back in the day, we used to boil nylon propellers to try and make them less brittle.....

If you want a cheap sim..... You can get hold of a good simulator (Phoenix) free off the internet as it's abandon-ware. There are also hundreds of user created models and airfields downloadable free. You can get a dongle off ebay for about a tenner and you're in business; lots of transmitters supported - what do you have?

Very nice....

Not certain of my facts so post deleted 🙂

Lots of them delivering fast food in Cambridge....

10 at a time is more than 30% of our membership 🙂. When I got in yesterday, my wife asked how many were there and said "gosh, busy then!" when I told her 4 of us were there at once....... for the vast majority of the 5 hours, there were only 2 of us! I expect there'll be more at our indoor session this afternoon......

I think post only get 'taken down' if they break the code of conduct - yours doesn't so there is no reason for it to be removed. Even if most people on here will disagree with the sentiment tbh. It is sad that you have had only bad experiences as I think there is definitely a lot to be gained from belonging to a club, irrespective of your place on the learning curve and experience. All clubs are different so taking up Simon's offer sounds good....... even if the end result is that you still prefer to be outside a club structure - lots of people do, and thoroughly enjoy the hobby. (I myself spent years flying outside a club, but I can't imagine going back to that position now). I would say that not all clubs are dying. Despite our rural location, and aging demographic, our numbers are stable, or even increasing by a few members a year. Some are even not yet retired! Whatever you decide, "happy flying, and safe landings".

Obviously not quite as cold on NE coast!

Lovely morning on North East coast - sunny but cold, gettinv breezier later. * Ruckus maidened successfully - I was a little worried it may be underpowered by the TT54FS but far from it.. * Double Trouble auccessfully flown after repairs needed from a sack of cat food falling on it * Valiant went as well as ever * Riot unflown * Hawk's batteries all seem goosed 😞 * Thundebolt engine now run in enough - I probably woukd have flown it if I'd taken the canopy to the field. Nice weather, nice flying, good company. Home to watch BoB again!

A football pitch is about 100 yards ......... Planes currently charging, for first session of the year: Riot Double Trouble Ruckus (how did I acquire so many Century UK planes.....?) Valiant Arrows Hawk Thunderbolt - finish running in the engine enough to trust it in the air next time.

Great news! Many congratulations. Look forward to seeing it in its final livery.