Martin McIntosh

I think you mean not enough positive Peter.

I would second that TK. If I am using an electric model with high capacity Lipos then for the small extra weight of a couple of LiFe 700 packs via an electronic switch it is not worth the risk of flying without them.

Simply Evostick it. Job done.

EB, yep, those are what I mean.

Spend money? The 10 or 12 way JST ones from CPC cost pence.

Given that the tail section is quite thick, that looks more like zero deg. wrt the longerons. Mine appears to be just the same, perhaps even a bit more positive. Bit of a teaser really since the longerons are straight all the way to the front. From the looks of the ply I would think that it is a SLEC version because mine uses 1/16th birch ply through the tail and fin.

I have posted many times on here about simple multiple connectors which I make and have used for many years on anything which has more than two servos. Can no longer get the pics from this site if course and they are on a different PC but shall try to get them on here if anyone is interested.

So by polyester dress lining you do not mean peel ply I assume?

My tail has not got obvious positive incidence as built as per plan but I had to assume it to be correct. The birch ply centre between the fin and tail precludes any later change so be careful to get it as per full size. Lent my plan to someone but I seem to recollect some French on it. One major point I forgot to say is the upper wing so called braces. You must fit a couple of long 1/8th birch ply pieces or the wing will fold. These need to be bent a bit to follow the spars but easily ? done. A bit of spar doctoring may be required. Keeping everything at the rear end as light as possible should ensure that there are no cg problems.

GW, I built mine from the same kit when this thread started. Couple of things to watch out for, firstly throw away the hard die crunched wing ribs and make a new set from light 1/8th balsa by the sandwich method. My kit contained sheets of ribs with 50% having different spar positions but the plan shows each wing to be the same. The other main thing is the tail incidence. Mine needs to fly with what looks like full down elevator but this does not detract from it in the air and it will perform inside and outside loops. I understand that there were two versions of the plan, one right and the other not so but with the tail sitting on the spruce longerons it would have been difficult to get it wrong. The full size wing/tail incidences can be googled. Mine was originally 6.2 kg with a 155 but later changed to a 180. Moving the battery to the rear of the bay kept the cg at 1" forward of the upper TE. Look forward to a happy year of balsa bashing.

I would really like to know where an inflation figure of around 7% comes from. For instance a 90p bag of frozen chips from Lidl is now £2.09, a bottle of Coke is a ridiculous £2.50, car and house insurance has gone up by at least 50%, never mind fuel, and being on a small pension I am very glad that I no longer have a mortgage. Just what exactly is it based on? Those original figures are only from a year ago.

For my 2p worth of wind gradient problems, a very good pilot was landing an ARTF Mustang, so obviously quite light, when it suddenly flipped inverted. I later flew my 62" Hurricane and despite a fast approach did the same. The wind was from the SW corner, over trees, and always causes problems from that direction. At Greenacres one year I took up my 1/4 scale Stampe. The wind was from the campsite direction, very strong and over trees. I thought that a short take off would be easy then a tight 180 but when the model was on its side it just kept going away from me despite full up. Again at my field with the wind from the above corner I took up my now 23 year old 2m Dalotel with a powerful YS up front. Despite high rate elevator it refused to turn at all and I thought that there had been an airframe failure. It gained some height but got so far away that I could scarcely see it. I pulled full up and it did a normal loop so I obviously had control and the model calmed down, taking ages to return to the field. I could find nothing wrong so took it up again for an uneventful flight.

Hi ES, I still have two of these motors and they will idle all day, both on pressure. I run them on 10% nitro and the usual OSf plugs. Maybe your plug is a bit old and tired like me; they don`t last forever either. I find that when the idle gets dodgy it is time for a new one. Hope that I am not trying to teach Granny to suck eggs.

Open the idle bleed hole by gradually undoing the screw, compensate for the increase in revs by closing the throttle a bit more. Basic idle tuning.

Got a mail today so the problem may be fixed. Thanks again. Still cannot get rid of old notifications. Reading them make no difference.

Always use a file on push rods if you want to make a proper job. I was a professional solderer as part of my jobs most of my working life. By the way, if soldering up piano wire u/c`s also use a file; it makes the job so much easier.

A Laser 180 will easily fly an eighteen pound Spit if that is any help. 18x8 prop.

I entirely agree with you, Peter J. From my experience, people new to it seem to think that massive surface movement is the way to go since they have been watching the hot shots at events. Most of us are, I expect, too old to learn new tricks, and why bother hovering anyway? I have an Edge 540 which would do it if I cared but had more satisfaction trying this with a cheap, almost indestructible indoor model. I started very young, about 12, and built a single channel set from this mag., later a reed set then a lousy glitchy Stavely propo which I flew to death, getting through two OS 30`s and two OS 40`s and was rather brave in those days. The natural progression from reeds to propo dictated mode 1. Still not worked out how to do an eight point roll on mode 2. It only took me three years hence to get me to the top of the F3A tree but of course the maneouvres were much more comprehensible in those days. Practice, practice and then some more will get you there.

You cannot solder to galvanised steel so would probably need an abrasive wheel or something. Same applies to zinc plated push rods. On steel, always use a mild, none corrosive plumbers flux (Wickes) since the stuff in multicore is not really strong enough.

I shall have to wait and see, thanks.

It is almost always due to lousy, sloppy linkages, especially with those awful strip ailerons from the days of expensive servos and systems which could not cope as well as today with two aileron ones.

My Lidl one works fine too. Take the thing back.

The problem I have always had is creasing at the edges. Tried the oven and a heat gun. I once got through an 8x4 sheet, cut into A3 sizes to make the five mouldings required for my Lanc.

Sorry, I put the address on here, not a PM. Please delete.

My previous post with my mail address has not appeared on `latest posts`.