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EvilC57

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Everything posted by EvilC57

  1. A 3 position switch usually in my experience.
  2. An update to finish this story: I sent the apparently faulty DX controller back to Logic RC, where John Norris confirmed a fault with the rudder trim control circuitry, and promptly sent me a new controller FOC under warranty. I connected the replacement controller to my PC which refused to recognise it, displaying a 'USB device not recognised' warning window. As a result I couldn't even open RealFlight. The model number of the faulty DX controller I returned was SPMRFTX1, however I noticed that the number of the replacement is SPMRFTX1C. I described this issue on the RealFlight forum, and someone suggested that there is a known (to Horizon in the US) compatibility issue between the InterLink DX SPMRFTX1C and the USB chipsets used in some computers. And that I should try connecting the new controller via a powered USB hub - which seemed an unlikely solution to me. However, I have subsequently tried this and it works, so I'm back in the (simulated) air. I've also emailed John N to let him know of the issue, which from his response it seems he wasn't aware of. I just thought I'd put this out there in case anyone else comes across this issue in future.
  3. Yes, that was the intention. Sorry if my choice of language confused.
  4. I had a case of this three or four years ago. I was sitting in the back garden at home when I heard the familiar sound of a drone flying nearby. I looked up and saw a racing type drone flying at some speed around 80ft or so above the house. I live near a park, and it seemed someone was flying circuits around the park, and also overflying the houses nearby. A week or so later I was out for a walk, and caught sight of him just packing up. It seems he’d been lone flying FPV. The guy was clearly a good flier, but had no idea or regard for the law. A couple of us from my club planned to try and nobble him to try to teach him the error of his ways next time he did it, but I never saw him again, so maybe someone else got to him first!
  5. I’ve opened the transmitter and checked the physical switch behind the rudder trim tab now. The switch is working OK, so it looks as though there is something wrong in the electronics between the switch and the USB interface, as I’ve power cycled (unplugged) the interLink DX USB Tx and the PC several times and the fault is still there. The rudder LH trim switch doesn’t do anything, and the rudder RH trim switch generates virtual beeps (via the PC sound card as driven by the sim software) when pressed, but has no effect on the actual model rudder in the sim. It’s a real nuisance, because it means there is a LH offset to the rudder in all models in the sim now. A new InterLink DX is £90 or thereabouts, which seems a lot of money to fix a minor but annoying fault, and I doubt whoever makes RealFlight offers any hardware repair facilities 😐.
  6. I’ve always found 80gsm printer/copier paper perfectly adequate for levelling. Once you get the feel for it, you can adjust quite accurately. I find that pushing & pulling the paper fore and aft while the print head is at each corner (as driven by the paper levelling g-code) you can judge by how much the paper starts to wrinkle upwards as you’re pushing it away from you. I always do the adjustment with the head and bed up to temperature. As Allan says, this will ensure there is no hardened blob of plastic sticking out of the print nozzle, and I’m sure expansion of the metal nozzle and glass bed must make a difference too. I’d be surprised if your bed is not flat, if like mine it’s the standard carborundum coated glass. Being glass, surely, by the nature of float glass it would be guaranteed flat. Unless of course, your X or Y beam is not completely straight…
  7. Think I may have ansered my own question thanks. I believe the InterLink DX Tx may have a dodgy click switch on the rudder-left trim position - something I've had on a 'real' (JR) transmitter once before. All the other trims switches give the usual beep on movement, with a higher pitched beep indicating centre, however rudder-right is OK, but I can't make rudder-left beep reliably, despite unplugging & plugging in the Tx USB conection and rebooting the pc etc.. Maybe time for a new switch...
  8. I'm using RF9.5 with the supplied InterLink DX USB Tx, and I'm finding I can't adjust out a left hand offset in the rudder (this affects all aircraft), despite running the calibration routine several times. If I 'park' the model in front of me, I can see the ailerons and elevator responding to the trim tabs on the Tx, but not the rudder, which seems to have a permanent LH offset on it - which is making flying difficult. Any ideas please?
  9. That looks hard work compared to twiddling the joysticks on my DX8!
  10. I made and fitted this filament roller guide as one one of the first and, I think, most significant mods to my printer. Without it, if the roll of filament is mounted on top of the machine as suggested in the instructions, the filament goes into the entry hole at the cold end at completely the wrong angle, pulling sharply from the top rather than feeding in straight. Far from increasing friction at the cold end, I would suggest the roller guide pulley reduces it considerably.
  11. Going back a few days to my earlier post on this. The YouTube ‘algorithm’ has just recommended this, which might answer some of the questions regarding security of the contents being delivered.
  12. Filament in the airing cupboard is a no-no here too. Not because Mrs E wouldn’t allow it, but because the cupboard is rammed full already! I haven’t proven this either way, but from reading I’ve done, if filament absorbs too much moisture (and I agree, it seems odd that plastic can absorb moisture) it makes it brittle, which can cause breakages when it goes through the feed tube on the printer, and bubbling in the hot end which can affect the print as the moisture boils off.
  13. My understanding is that ground based delivery robots have been on trial in Milton Keynes for some time now. Look here. The video doesn't make it clear, but I imagine theft is prevented by the lid not opening unless the robot 'eye' is presented with a barcode on a smartphone - or some similar system.
  14. I clean the bed with IPA between every print. But I find that PLA sticks well to the (I believe) carborundum coated glass, whether hot or cold. Fortunately, I found while printing the Jetwing that LW-PLA separated from the glass quite easily, with some encouragement from the scraper. And TPU peels off easily too.
  15. It’s interesting you should say that. I run the paper levelling routine* just before every print, and I’ve started finding just recently that the bed level, as demonstrated by the ease with which the paper slides between the nozzle and glass has changed. Cancelling and restarting the routine (without adjusting the bed) sees it work OK. And on the occasions when the clearance has been wrong (too big), I’ve noticed no audible ‘click’ from the Z limit switch, so maybe I too have an intermittent switch. I find that for most prints it’s best to unclip and remove the glass with the newly printed object on it, I then kneel down on the floor and chisel/prize it off with the ‘wallpaper’ scraper that was supplied with the Ender 3. With large objects (particularly those printed with PLA) I find that the forces required to remove them from the glass are quite large sometimes; and I’ve learned the hard way if you don’t remove the glass, that small prints can sometimes ping off down the back of the cabinet on which the printer sits, never to be seen again! *Paper levelling g code
  16. I’ll second that. After a lot of research I went for the E3 V2 at only around £200 because I didn’t want to commit to the £800+ of something like a Prusa i3. It may not have the bells & whistles, or be as fast as some, but the print quality is excellent, and it seems durable. Indeed, I’ve recently finished printing a complete Planeprint Jetwing EDF model on it, using a mixture of light weight (Colorfabb) PLA, PLA+ and TPU, not had a single nozzle blockage or any other problem, and the quality of the prints has been excellent throughout.
  17. I thought about buying the Sunlu filament drier box available at Amazon, until is saw this review, which points out that many driers which do not have fans (merely a box with a heating element) just drive out the moisture in the filament, which then settles as condensation on the inside of the box, therefore not effectively removing the moisture, as the filament is then sitting in a warm humid environment. There are designs online for passive drier boxes using calcium chloride crystals too, but I’ve always found it sufficient just to keep my reels in vacuum bags with a small bag of silica gel, and I’ve never had any obvious issues with moisture from just doing this.
  18. It’s a perfectly good place to report it Bob. The BMFA Club Finder shows 5 model flying clubs within 10 miles of Pattingham, so hopefully someone will come forward to claim it. There should also, in theory (if it weighs more than 250g), be a CAA registration number label on it somewhere, the BMFA or police should be able to use this to trace the owner. I don’t think you should be too surprised it was there unrecovered for a couple of days, we’ve had people lose models, and it’s taken numerous searches before they’ve been found - after all, models are quite small, and the countryside is very big.
  19. I asked the wife what she wanted for Christmas. She said ‘Ooh I don’t know, get me something crazy and expensive I don’t even need’. So I bought her a course of radiotherapy - Emo Philips (US actor and stand up comedian).
  20. Yep, I can confirm the hot ethylene glycol antifreeze method works at treat. Like the OP, I tried all sorts of things to remove burnt on castor stains, then stumbled across the antifreeze method (read it somewhere online I think). But as David says, do it outside. And I found that an old toothbrush is ideal for gently scrubbing between the cylinder head fins to remove more stubborn deposits once the engine has been ‘cooked’ for a while in the antifreeze.
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