EvilC57

I’ve put two reels of ColorFabb LW-PLA through my Ender 3 V2 now, and can’t say I have encountered this problem. Although I did have it once with a reel of Sunlu PLA. It sounds like you’ve just been unlucky. The first reel of CF LW-PLA I had was on a plastic spool, but they seem to have gone over to a cardboard one now (trying to be green I guess), but both unspooled OK. To ease the path of the filament, a couple of the first things I did when I got my printer was to make and fit a guide pulley and this filament holder from Thingyverse.

I don’t know whether this thread is of any help, and particularly my post from it (reposted below), which is a setup for differential throttle with fail safe on both channels for a DX8 Gen 1: “Right; Just for the record I’ve now discovered a way to switch in independent throttle control when needed. I asked a clever chap on our field who flies a twin engined job whether his throttle servos are on a Y-lead, or independent. He uses separate servos with a couple of mixes in his Tx, and kindly sent me the .SPM file which achieves this. This is how it’s done using a 1st generation DX8 and 8 Channel receiver (AR8000): Mix 1 THR > AX3 Rate: -100% -100% Offset: 0% Trim: Inh Sw: Gear 0 Mix 2 AX3 > THR Rate: -100% -100% Offset: 0% Trim: Inh Sw: Gear 0 These two mixes mix Throttle (Ch1) to Aux 3 (Ch8), and Aux 3 back to the Throttle, and have the effect when enabled (Gear switch down), of synchronising the servo movements on both channels for normal flight. But allowing independent movement with the Gear switch up. In use this means that with the Gear switch UP you can start one engine and get it running while using the throttle stick to control it, then leave it idling while you start the other engine, and control it from the Aux 3 knob. When you’re ready, setting the Gear switch DOWN brings both engines under control of the throttle stick as usual. Note that you need to keep the Aux 3 knob in the centre of it’s rotation (where it beeps as it goes through centre) for normal flight. Note also that you also need to bind the Rx in Preset Failsafe mode rather than Hold Last Position, to ensure that the slave (Aux 3) channel also returns to closed throttle position on failsafe operation. Using an 8 channel Rx also leaves Ch2 and Ch6 both available if you want separate aileron servos. I’ve tried all this so far with a battery, receiver and two servos on the bench, and it all seems to work as described (I haven’t started building the target model yet). The chap who gave me this setup did say that if he were to get a dead engine in flight, he could switch the mix out, operate the throttle and see whether the remaining engine responds of not, from that he reckoned (knowing which engine was on the primary throttle channel) he could tell which one had cut - and put the correct rudder offset in accordingly. I suspect you would be lucky to achieve this in reality! However, it seems like a useful facility for ground running.”

It’s just a physical strength thing as far as I’m concerned with 26 vs 22SWG. 26 gauge always seems a bit fragile to me, when you consider the twisting, bending and other stresses placed upon servo wires (and extensions). So I tend to prefer 22 gauge except for small light, or indoor models.

How about these from AliExpress?

Like others here I use a fuselage jig, but have never felt the need for a wing jig (in fact I didn’t know such things existed). I just make my wings over the plan flat on a cork surfaced bench, and if necessary for a wing which is not flat on the bottom, I make up balsa blocks to pin the LE & TE pieces down to - see pics below…

Very nice. How about reinstating them Mr Crozier 🤩!

Does anyone on here still order from HobbyKing?

kevin b, are you talking about the life of Brian?!

When I was a child in the early 60s I remember we went on holiday to Ireland via Fishguard in my dad’s Morris 1100. My parents made up a small bed for my little brother on the rear shelf, so he could sleep on the long journey. How far down the road do you think you’d get now before you got stopped!

I’ll second that. The only models I don’t use a restraint for are small (70mm and less) EDFs, which I usually power up on my lap sitting in my chair in the pits.

I use two Bat-Safe boxes here in the UK, although only for charging. I store my lipos in ammunition boxes with the seals removed. They're on metal trolleys in the garage, I don't keep anything too flammable in the vicinity, there is a smoke alarm mounted on the roof nearby, and a powder extiguisher not too far away as well - you can't be too careful! I'll echo KenC's comment above in that from YT videos I've seen, they're much better at containing a lipo fire than the supposedly fire proof lipo storage bags you can get.

I’ve used them for years. I’ve found the trick is to use a marker pen to put a small mark on the wire exactly where you want the first bend to be (e.g. adjacent to the hole in the servo arm), then make sure you have the pliers the right way around before performing the bends.

I’ve just had the same issue. Try clearing your cookies.

Yes I’m always well aware of this when using the rubber band & pliers method. But it’s always done under controlled conditions when I’m on my own in my modelling shed with no distractions to cause any issues. It’s worked for me for many years without incident. And I obviously remove the connector from the pliers the moment the joint has cooled.

Yep, I was taught in tech college nearly 50 years ago, never carry the molten solder to the joint on the iron. Set the joint up so that you can hold the iron with one hand and feed the solder into the joint being made with the other hand. Incidentally, before some smart Alec makes the observation that the cable polarity in my post above is incorrect. It was a quick lash up just done for the photo!

You should always do this (not just with XT60s). I also hold the connector still on the bench by supporting it in a pair of pliers acting as a clamp, by using a rubber band around the handles to hold them closed (see pic).

I’ve always used Weller TCP series soldering irons. After a 45 year career in the electronics industry I’ve found them to be the only ones consistently reliable, although I admit they are expensive. As far as I know the tips are nickel coated and last well, but certainly not forever.

It was Velcro last time I heard that joke!

So did I. However I went to Specsavers yesterday for an overdue eye test, where having examined my eyes, the young ophthalmologist said she could see very slight yellowing in both eyes, which is the very start of cataracts. She said though, that the time from initial observations to actually being bad enough to need an operation can be anything from 5 to 20 years. I am 66. She also suggested UV filtered lenses on my new distance glasses. So if there’s any truth in the theory, hopefully they’ll help slow down future degradation. Or it was an extra £15 for nothing.

Another vote for 123-3D here. Just used them for a couple of rolls of ColorFabb LW-PLA and a roll of TPU. Quicker service and much better communication than iDig3D. Turns out they’re part of CartridgePeople.com who are a well established office supplies company.

I beg to differ. There was a time when I would have agreed with you about the high pitched scream from the older 3 & 4 bladed fans, but modern multi-bladed fans emit more of a quiet whoosh than a scream. My exposed 12-blade 70mm FMS EDF has recently drawn comment from fellow flyers on just how quiet it is in flight.

I know that a powder extinguisher will put out a lipo fire. Don’t ask me how I know!

Gaoneng 1550mAh 4S lipos for me. You have to update the ESC though from 30 to 40A. Several have done the 4S update in our club, and they go like stink!