FlyinFlynn

Catherine, this forum is primarily a model aircraft forum with a small contingent of people who are also interested in model boats, you might have better luck with a response to your request on somewhere like https://www.modelboats.co.uk/forums/ . I'm not trying to dissuade you from your goal but I suspect if you wait on here it will indeed end up being a boat shaped plant pot.

These days I doubt having a 1080p Hollywood quality video of the scumbags complete with their home addresses and a full set of fingerprints would help you getting your mower back, plod isn't interested. The only solution IMHO is not to keep the kit on site-especially now.

I'm sure you mean €'s not £'s..doubt the postie would accept £'s Did you not get an email from la poste advising you that the parcel was at customs and there was a duty to pay?. I usually do get the email and if you opt to pay it on line there is a significant discount on the stated charges - usually only pay 2 or 3 euros in charges plus some made up figure for the TVA.

Whilst that may well be true we are not just dealing with the 'system voltage'. There is the inductive element to consider when dealing with electric motors, take a look at a motor commutator running at 5v.....plenty sparky. A motor stalled mechanically is still subject to inductive influences when a circuit is both made and broken. Anyhow.... I think everyone is in agreement - don't use the cheap Chinese switches

The 125V as stated in the specs is most probably there for our American cousins. It makes no difference to the switch contact if it is 125v or 5v, it is the current that strikes the arc. Whilst it is true there is no, or very little, regulation on the speed of operation of a slide switch the switch does at least wipe the contact during operation, something a lever switch does not do. It would be quite easy for an instantaneous current in excess of 1 amp to flow if say, something like a retract servo was stalled due to a bent leg door fouling the wing. Once the arc has been struck you can kiss goodbye to your silver coating on the contact and once that happens all bets are off. 'A bit down the priority list' tends to get forgotten though.

If you go through the specs of that C&K switch you will find it is only rated at the quite impressive 12 Amps at 12v AC, but that drops to ONE amp 125V DC !!..... and it is still one of the better switches available. I'd open up the Etronix heavy duty JR switch to ensure it uses both poles in parallel. I wouldn't entertain the lever switch for this application having seen inside so many examples.

Not sure I agree with this Peter. Providing you are not keeping the cells on trickle charge more than the recommended 12 to 14 hours at or below the 0.1C rate IMHO there is no chance of the nimh being sufficiently overcharged to cause gassing. There is a far greater risk in overcharging cells by fast charging than trickle charging and it is doubtful fast charging will allow sufficient time to get the pack properly balanced. Also not too sure about your claimed cause for black wire corrosion too, I have never seen any definitive evidence as to the direct cause of black wire corrosion, can anybody point me in the right direction on that? There is plenty of anecdotal evidence though! Was it the development of fast peak detect chargers that saw the reduction of black wire corrosion or was it a change in the composition of the wires and the sheathing (for example). /2p

For a nominal dipole antenna, which is what a typical R/C Tx antenna aspires to be, the -3dB radiated power level appears around 78 degrees from the horizontal.(that is half power at the blue lines in the elevation plane diagram) In other words, if you point your tx antenna directly at your model you will get an order of magnitude reduced RF energy arriving at the Rx, (-30dB in this case as shown at the 90 degree point in the elevation plane polar diagram.) Having two Rx antennas doesn't increase the level of power gathered from the air except when one antenna may be shielded by something metallic in the model, then the other antenna receives the energy and the model doesn't lose the signal. That is why you separate the antennas and place them in different orientations well away from anything metallic.

...plus to that, if you do point the end of your tx antenna to your model if you should suffer a range problem simply jerking your tx upwards will present a better aspect to your model and 'should' recover control...

Or your Tx for that matter.

Just found this - Can someone please help me with reprogramming a Tarot ZYXS2? It's the yellow version and does not have a usb cable as it came on a 2nd hand Heli. I bought a Bluetooth module for it as I thought but it turns out to be the ZYX 24 whereas the module for the ZYXS2 is the ZYX 12 I think. Itlinks to BT but no response from the gyro. If I knew the data port pinouts of the S2could I use a standard usb dongle to connect? The data port is 4 pin and I've worked out the first 2 pins from the left are ground then +5v. The other 2 presumably tx and Rx? I have a ft232rl and could make a lead. Will this work? Any other ideas please? on https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1512179-New-Tarot-ZYX-ZYX-S-ZYX-S2-Flybarless-System/page851#post52678671

As to the pinouts, the ground pin in the data port will be connected to the ground of any servo socket, the +ve may also be connected to the +ve of the servo output...but it might not be as the servo will be +5v and the programmer may be 3v3. As to the Tx and Rx it wont hurt if you get those backwards, it just wont work so then try swapping them over. Other than that you could open the ZZYXS2 case and have a gander, the Rx and Tx traces will normally go together to a uP of some sort whereas the +ve will go off by itself.

That looks for all the world like a standard USB-Serial adapter Maybe try something like this.

Well, changing the colour to black and adding a centre line is easy... however, someone else has already done it .https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=52469175&postcount=6 black Bugs Ear.pdf

Ahhh... your 'mistake' was reading the 30Amps rating of the ESC as proper Amps and not 'Chinese Amps' which they most probably were! The normal rule of thumb is the same one as the light output values given on Chinese LED torches ie. about half. 🙂

Maybe they know you have the paid for version.....Anyhow...just my personal experience.

I always found NCH excessively pestered me with adverts for it's paid for offerings so I found alternate softwares from companies that didn't. They might have changed now but it was a real pain.

The last time I used a covering iron it was also a travel iron for the vast majority of the job and I made a small shoe that I silver soldered onto an old soldering iron tip to get into the tight spaces that not even a pukka covering iron tip could get into.

Perhaps you might like to post this on mode-zero forum, you will find plenty of info there, there is a sub-forum on modules. A Hitec spectra 2.4 Tx module will fit in your Optic 6 apparently There are several FRSKY modules available but I am unfamiliar with them. As far as Corona goes, they still offer 3 variants, a CT8F to fit a Futaba TX module socket, a CT8J to fit the JR style Tx module socket and a CT8Z which is a hack module to fit internally in a Tx without a module socket - all available from Aliexpress (other stores also). Some of the other manufacturers seem to have discontinued their modules because " they are impacting full transmitter sales"....... that is some seriously funky logic going on there. They seem to think the RF module somehow delivers the 'bells and whistles' functions of the transmitter.

Closest I can get. They are scaled against the root profile so they are all the same profile. The tip profile I have is not exactly the same as the tip profile on the plan but getting eight perfectly interspaced ribs in both size and profile is beyond the means I have at my disposal. Bugs Ear.pdf

Ummm In expert mode you can select a different set of settings for each model on the build plate that override the default settings. Maybe worth checking you have 'outer brim only' when right clicking the model? Other than that maybe raise an issue on https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/issues

Well, it removes the old and crusty analogue components of the 20 year old existing encoder board which is usually full of potentiometers and old analogue timing components. It provides you with a couple of mixers that the old encoder may not have, it has a throttle lock which the old board wont have, it has expo and rates, it has a beep alarm for the throttle lock and minute timer, it is seven channel with a speed selectable output on the gear channel, it is smaller, accepts a wide voltage range and it was created by one of our own! Here is an excerpt from the sketch describing the functions - // A simple seven channel PPM encoder. Six propo, one switched with servo-slow, single-channel escapement emulation mix, Vtail, Elevons, minute-minder etc // Please do not use Arduino bootloader for programming, its startup delay messes things up and can strip servo gears with some modules (eg Corona) // Connections: // Pots are wired between ground and regulated 5v from Arduino. Wipers connected as follows: // A0=aileron, A1=elevator, A2=rudder, A3=throttle, A4=aux1, A5=aux2, A6=expo, A7=rates. Always use this wiring order regardless of PPM channel order. // Ground A6 and A7 with links or Spektrum bind-plugs if rates & expo are not required. Dont leave them floating. // If fewer analogue channels are used, tie unused ones to a used one, do not leave floating. Eg on a 4ch set, tie A4 to aileron wiper, A5 to elevator wiper // Unwanted digital functions can be omitted except for button on D10 or D11 which is needed for calibrating the sticks. Omitting ch7 toggle (D12) means no range test. // Note that the DIY More ProMini Strong has annotations for D0 and D1 reversed - the pins actually number 10234567. // D0=PPM, D1=S/C escapement speed, D2=throttle reverse, D3=ch7 speed, D4&5=channel order, D6=75:25 mixer, D7=50:50 mixer, (D6 AND D7)=60:40 mixer // D8=increment minute timer, D9=throttle lock, D10=sequential s/c, D11=compound s/c, D12=ch7 toggle switch, D13=buzzer NPN base, collector to battery pos, // ... emmitter to buzzer+, buzzer- to neg (emitter follower). Parallel haptic with buzzer. Used for minute minder, inactivity timer & throttle-lock warning. // Features: // Calibration - center trims, hold either s/c button in, switch on, still holding button move all controls to extremes including auxilliary pots // Center all controls including throttle and aux pots. Release button. At this point the throttle-lock warning should chirp because the throttle is centred. // Do not switch off during calibration, the calibration values cant be saved if the set has been switched off! // Throttle response can optionally be made non-linear during calibration by 'centering' the throttle stick to say 2/3 rather than to neutral stick. // Variable expo & rates on Futaba ch1, 2 & 4, ditto JR ch2, 3 & 4. Elevon mixer on Futaba ch1 & ch2, JR ch2 & 3, 75% aileron, 25% elevator or 50:50 for V-tails // Mixer option can only be changed on power-up (avoids accidentally switching during flight). Single-channel emulation mix, compound or sequential. // Flick toggle 3x for range test. Servo reversing by holding sticks over on power up (saved to eeprom). Servo-slow on channel 7 toggle. // Auto and manual throttle-lock with warning. // Follow the story on the single-channel forum http://mode-zero.uk/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=844 // Diagram and documentation on http://www.singlechannel.co.uk see Archive page // If you use this software in whole or in part please acknowledge its source - Phil_G on most forums, [email protected] http://www.singlechannel.co.uk // Special thanks to the late Dave Burton and Mike Kitchen for their improved expo maths, and Hasi for the interrupt-driven ppm. // Thanks also to testers Ron, Shaun, Pat, Frank and Al All info is here However, you are well down the road using the existing encoder board and a soldered in Tx module so none of this is relevant. Well done on the conversion.

Thats quite a good turnout... we had 6 of the things installed locally 12 months ago and not one of them has ever turned, they are an absolute blight on the landscape in full view of my study window. I don't know why they have never been turned on but my guess would be problems connecting the eyesores to the grid out here in the sticks. Probably no government subsidies for the connection, only the installation of the towers. Corporate greed at its finest.

Several F series Futaba 'Golds' have been converted to 2.4 over on mode-zero. Mine being one of them. They tend to use one of Phil Greens encoder boards based on an arduino nano and a 2.4GHz Tx module of your choice. It looks 'busy' in there but it really isn't. Using the existing encoders as you have done is also an option providing it works and all the pots are serviceable and not noisy. The basic electronics is quite compact really as the processor 'fits' on the bottom of the Tx module, here is the bare bones before adding the stick units in a joypad type controller Happy tinkering!

I understand the technical definitions you describe but I rather think the question that was asked and the manner in which it was written cared not for the technical definitions rather it was asked as a colloquial term. ie. power as in 'is it stronger?' Like most things in modern life, the later technology provides some benefits over the older technology, but these usually come with disadvantages too, in this case, the increased 'power' requirements.( power as in current.. nothing to do with the rate at which work is done)