What Glue DO You Use

[christopher small]

With such a wide choice of glues now available ,I was wondering what modellers are using and why.

I have always used white pva  wood glue,and epoxy resin fast and slow setting.I`m not sure if this is the right choice,but it has always worked for me,I`m not up to these modern glues,

[Tim Mackey]

I love gorilla glue for all sorts of jobs. it really does do what it says on the tin ( bottle )

Epoxy and cyano still have a place in my box though.

Easily obtained via fleabay

[Myron Beaumont]

Timbo  Havn't come across "Gorilla " glue ! I use all the above too .   One criteria being to use the slowest p ossible setting one in applications-wood to wood ie overnight .

Sorry you have a nasty skin disease

[winchweight]

Available in local branches of "Charle Stores" too.

Quite like Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo II as well. Quick drying, vib resistant. Oh and PVA (white glue)

[Erfolg]

I use all the above as I perceive the appliability.

Just a few extra words, I intend using long life cyno in future, although ordinary cyno is a good substitute for Zap a dap a doo, when it is almost off, ie has thickened.

From time to time I use Polyurethane adhesive, it is gap filling, water proof, sticks to almost anything. But does need moisture to iniate the cure. There are to many brands to mention, some slightly different.

I also use contact adhesives ie Evo-Stick, since it has gone water based, not as strong, but does not attack foam.

If I have it, or have need for it, does influence what I use. 

PVA is the must have!

Regards

Erfolg

[Myron Beaumont]

Agee    PVA  is a must have but NOT for making sticky buns I've discovered .Now I've found a proper recipe !

[christopher small]

Gorrilla glue and Zap a Dap a Doo sound interesting,what should I use for open frame construction?

Also I have just bought a Carl Goldberg Super Tote flight box,where they recommend using Super Jet glue,but rather than applying glue to one end,and then clamping together,they recommend holding the 2 parts together with tape then gluing along the side of the joint,a bit like welding.So does the glue then soak up into the joint by capillary action,and would this be a good join.

[winchweight]

I'd probably use cyno or PVA. Gorilla glue is great for strong joints and gap filling, but it is an expanding glue.

[Andy Green]

Its a mix for me (not mixed together)-

PVA (Tend to use the water proof stuff) for most wood / foam

Epoxy - not a great fan of the 5 min stuff, tend to use 24hr Araldite

Plethora of cyanos from super thin to thick slow cure and of course kicker

Recently started using the foaming polyurethane glues in place of white, can give a nice fillet if careful.

Can of 3m 77 (have skinned wings with this), evostick for doublers.

A glue I use to use but havn'e seenit in years is cascamite (or some similar sounding name) it was a water soluble powder, that dried ad hard as epoxy.

A

[Tom Ruut]

  Epoxy is great stuff and superstrong.I used it all the time,carefully,but still became sensitised to it ie I developed a skin rash on my hands.Now I use a lot of PVA,very cheap and non toxic,but you need to make good joints especially on Old Timers.I recommend latex gloves for epoxy.

[Alan B]

For an Instant fix and super strength ( cyano does'nt come close ) I use Power Bond Industrial strength

Sorry It sounds like an advert!   good stuff though

[Bob Cotsford]

I've been using Poundland cyano - 5 x 10 gm bottles for £1, and Resin W white glue lately.

When I say lately, the bottle of Resin W I've got is a 1/2 L carpenters bottle that's lasted for several years so far.

[Bruce Richards]

I use Resin W PVA, various grades of Cyano + Kicker and NHP epoxy in various set times depending on the task. I use NHP because it comes in big easy to use bottles. I keep stocks  of  epoxy and cyano in the fridge so that it will keep for longer without going off.

I would like to try some of these expanding glues but I have not come across tham in the shops around here.

 I have used "Cascamite" in the past with mixed results when I have added the suggested amount of water I was unable to get a smooth past. You can still get it but it is called "Extramite".

Bruce 

[Declan Barry]

Hi Folks..

What about the aliphatic Resin Wood Glue.  Is it any good for model aircraft building?

An ebay website I have looked at is:

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/StarLoc-Five-Star-Adhesives-FMK_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZQ2d999QQftidZ2QQtZkm

Has anyone used this site for buying glues?

 I'm trying to work out where I should use certain glues over others.  i.e when glueing wood on wood when should I use Epoxy over normal wood glues etc.

Regards

Declan

[christopher small]

Where can I get Super Jet from ?

[Bruce Richards]

Declan,

I have used 5 star and I made the mistake of thinking I would get 3 bottles as shown in the picture. But no you only get one. Also I find the cyano bottles they provided me clogged very easily. I found the 5 min epoxy was ok.

[Martin McIntosh]

Forget PVA- aliphatic has taken over. It sets much more quickly and can be sanded on a balsa join. I use cyano almost exclusively except for large areas. Zap or Flash(Inwoods) are the best.

[Erfolg]

I thought Alipatic glues are a PVA, but more brittle and harder.

I have not seen the Alipatic glues outside of a model shop, who are the brand names, that can be purchased on the "high street" (for those of us without a local model shop).

I also use cyno, but do not like the smell, nor the mess it makes of my fingers if I get some on me (which seems to happen to frequently). Also tends to be brittle.

Regards

Erfolg

[Martin McIntosh]

Ponal is very good but expensive. CIS is my favourite and cheap at £3.99/500ml but I have not seen it recently. Not seen any of this other than in model shops

[Brian Cooper]

The choice of glues depends on what is being stuck together, but I usually have supply of 30 Minute epoxy, Aliphatic Resin, Evo-Stick contact adhesive.  Plus, cyano from the Pound Shop.... (sometimes up to ten bottles of 10 grams for 99p). 

For gap-filling, I either mix some sawdust with the Aliphatic and rub it it nto the gap, or fill the gap with sawdust and then flood it with cyano.

B.C.

[Martin McIntosh]

On the subject of gap filling, you may find this useful if you have not already tried it. Mix up some fairing compound, (Fibre-Tech) with a little Halfords polyester resin to a very thick paste then take about 1/2 teaspoon and mix with about 3-4mm of hardener. This makes a very useful filler which is super light and can be carved/sanded up to the time it sets like concrete. It was once available commercially. Keep the rest in an airtight container for future use.

[christopher small]

I have always glued one side only,then pushed together,then taped or clamped.

My Super Tote Flight box manual recommends doing it the other way around ,tape the parts together first, then applying a fillet of glue from the inside using Super Jet CA,which I can`t find in this country,only the USA.

Which CA would be ideal for this?

[Erfolg]

For gap filling either micro ballons brushed into the joint with cyno wicked (capillary action) in or polyurethane (a bit heavier)

Then again I realy try to avoid gaps.

Erfolg

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Bruce Richards]

Titebond original is Alphatic glue and can be bought from many places just google it for a list.

I use

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pricing=INC&pf_id=22581&filter_cat=&manufacturer_id=Titebond&name=&user_search=&sfile=1&jump=4&cid=GPS8PY1W7LGCKBLSFXXX42IWS2BY4IG6

or

http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/adhesives.htm

Modelfixings is one of the most useful  sites I have found. Be careful or you will spens far more than you expected on this site.