Andy Nash Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Malcolm she is looking good. I did a different idea. I tapped the M4 threads in the aluminium undercarriage rather than captive nuts in the wood.. Then I used plastic screws via the battery compartment into the ali. My rudder servo is located inside the tail via the cockpit. Just remove the cover to get access. Hope this helps Regards Andy Edited By Andy Nash on 26/02/2013 22:02:03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Great looking job Malcolm . Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Looking very impressive, Malcolm - some good tips there. You're somewhat ahead of me at the moment - which can be very helpful Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big T Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Posted by Gary Wright on 26/02/2013 19:12:51: Can anybody recommend the power set up and where to buy from ( battery, esc, motor, prop, spinner,prop adapter etc.) Also, I have bought some of the bearings for the rotor head. Had to buy a pack of 10. If any body wants to buy a few (at cost price + postage) just let me know. Question for Malcom. In the photo above, it looks like you have fitted tail wheel. Could you please share the details? Gary This is my set up: Motor Speed Controller (I use these for 80% 0f my models) LiPo: (I always use high output C rate as lower C rate gives less air time) Prop: (or APC electric balanced prop) From this set up I get 45 amps on full throttle ( which I rarely use even on take off) stooging around on half throttle I get flight times of around 8 to 10 minutes depending on ambient temperature, running down to about 10% to 15% capapcity. Also the model balanced out perfectly with no extra weight. Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 27/02/2013 13:05:12 Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 27/02/2013 16:31:19 Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 27/02/2013 16:35:56 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jose L. G. Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Well, Here I`m ready for building it. Only need sourcing some hard balsa for the mast/pylon or made an alternative one (Ply/balsa ?). any coments?. José Luis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mal brewer Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Posted by Richard Elliot on 26/02/2013 20:51:13: Personally I'd be looking for an ASP or OS 52 four stroke.....but i think I may be flogging a dead horse!!. Seriously though....it would be nice to see a few more ic examples, but select your engine before you build your cowl!! Malcolm, thats a nice build....super job Hi Richard (both Richards), I'm about half-way through the build of mine,and I'm fitting an ................................SC 52 four-stroke.......................................Mal. p.s. I'm also building the rotor head from the pdf download,a bit fiddley, but quite simple................... Edited By mal brewer on 27/02/2013 11:10:31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 José, I see no reason why the centre of the mast couldn't be made from lite ply, if it were me I would certainly add lightening holes though. Remember the core has to be 6mm as this sets the gap for the female part of the pitch hinge. Mal, I think the hardest part with the home made spindle is getting everything spinning true. A lathe makes this so much easier but a simple mandrel can be made from a bolt and it spun in a pllar drill. It would be alot easier if these parts were cnc cut (hint hint) Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mal brewer Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Posted by Richard Harris on 27/02/2013 12:46:2 Mal, I think the hardest part with the home made spindle is getting everything spinning true. A lathe makes this so much easier but a simple mandrel can be made from a bolt and it spun in a pllar drill. It would be alot easier if these parts were cnc cut (hint hint) Rich Hi Rich, yes,that is exactly what I did. Not having a lathe,I used my pillar drill,hopefully it will balance out ok.........................................Mal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big T Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Here is another moto that I can reccomend, don't confuse it with the standard 2826/06 as that is very inefficient, draws too many amps. Motor Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 This motor will do the job aswell MOTOR , swinging a 12 -13" prop on a 4s 3000mah set up with a 60-80 amp esc. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Reeves Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 I have decided to have a go at building the panther as this will by the first autogyro I've built and hopfully fly. I am going to power it with a O.S 48 four stroke. When I placed the engine on the plan, the nose will have to be longer than shown. If I extend the nose will the CofG stay in the same place as per the plan or would it be best to move F1 to accomidate the engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm - coolwind.co.uk Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Posted by Richard Harris on 27/02/2013 16:36:30: This motor will do the job aswell MOTOR , swinging a 12 -13" prop on a 4s 3000mah set up with a 60-80 amp esc. Rich rich, Thats good to know as thats the one I have (although it came in Black rather than Red). The only problem I came across with it was that it has a blanking plate that needs to be removed to fix on the prop adaptor, the screws used only went into the body about 1 turn, so I had to order some M2.5x8 Countersunk head from ebay. Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Wright Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Thanks for the help with the power set up, will get ordering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Nash Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Hi Tim good to see more chaps building. You will like this one, she flies very well. Don't move F1/F2 just make the cowling to match your engine. I used a 2Ltr coke bottle rather than balsa. Sprayed inside with silver (model car body spray stuff) and she looks like aluminium! Regards Andy Edited By Andy Nash on 27/02/2013 20:38:56 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Reeves Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Hi Andy Thanks for that advice, hopefully it will look as good as yours! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big T Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Posted by Malcolm on 27/02/2013 18:27:45: Posted by Richard Harris on 27/02/2013 16:36:30: This motor will do the job aswell MOTOR , swinging a 12 -13" prop on a 4s 3000mah set up with a 60-80 amp esc. Rich rich, Thats good to know as thats the one I have (although it came in Black rather than Red). The only problem I came across with it was that it has a blanking plate that needs to be removed to fix on the prop adaptor, the screws used only went into the body about 1 turn, so I had to order some M2.5x8 Countersunk head from ebay. Malcolm I found that the prop adapter on this motor is very soft and easily bent (remember my Humpback)? As far as I know you cannot buy a spare for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Elliot Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Tim RYou could shorten the nose a tad for your longer 48fs and that will help prevent it being a touch nose heavy, just make sure there is enough room left for your tank!CheersRichEdited By Richard Elliot on 27/02/2013 21:35:23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koen Smits Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Hello, I'm also building a panther, I moved F1/F2 30 mm forward so my lipo's will fit flat inside the batterybay, made a small board to put the lipo on and fit with velcro. . Edited By Koen Smits on 27/02/2013 21:59:16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 When I see other peoples models and their quality of work I am so impressed. I particularly like Keons battery support and the confidence to make the necessary changes. My own efforts inch forward, not the giant strides that others are making, nor is the quality of workmanship in the same category, being lower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 Keon, Nice idea regarding the battery tray and neat work too. Carl, 'My own efforts inch forward, not the giant strides that others are making, nor is the quality of workmanship in the same category, being lower' That is of course your opinion, I think you are doing an equally good job as everyone else and I am sure many others will agree with me. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BILL PETTIT Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Koen: I love the use of tri stock and the sweet miter cuts you must be a carpenter by trade. You guys that carve your nose cowls are doing a great job symmetrical too ! Bill Edited By BILL PETTIT on 28/02/2013 00:33:46 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Foreman Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Rich, Am I right in saying that no side thrust needs to be built in ? I'm about to drill F1/F2 for the motor mount, and putting in a Super Tigre 30 two stroke. I might mount it side winder fashion to put the exhaust underneath. Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm - coolwind.co.uk Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Robert, Although it is not mentioned on the plan, the article in the magazine on P70 "Creating the Cowl" calls for 2 degrees of right thrust, which would mean offsetting the enging mount to the left by about 4mm so the motor shatf exits centally (you may need to calc exact offset depending on your engine length etc) Rich, Appologies for butting in and answering a question directed at you - but you should be working at this time of day! lol Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koen Smits Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Sorry, Question was answered already by Malcom. Koen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Nash Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Hi Tim Thanks for your kind words. The covering helps to hide stuff! Robert I used a piece of rubber behind the engine mount to reduce the noise, but also I can tighten the right side engine mount screws to give me more or less the correct right thrust I needed. Yes Bill I am with you, Koen that build looks so crisp. Regards Andy Edited By Andy Nash on 28/02/2013 20:54:45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.