Allan Bowker Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Somewhere in the back of my head I've got the idea that when using petrol in our aircraft we should be using tanks and fuel tubing designed for Petrol and not use the regular products designed for Nitro. Can anyone verify either way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyinBrian Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Normal tank is fine but you need a petrol Bung, tubing needs to be Tygon as silicon swells and perishes quickly using petrol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultymate Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 The best fuel tubing brand for petrol is branded as "Tygon" the stuff used on glow will soften and swell if used with petrol some tanks are interchangeable but usually the bung in the neck has to be petrol compatable, personally I find the medical bottle types are more servicable. Sometimes the internal clunks even when using Tygon will harden particularly when your tank is regularly drained, I personally tend to leave fuel in my tanks for this reason. Edited By Ultymate on 22/03/2012 13:05:31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy watson Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Tygon costs about £6/m. Quite a lot more than normal silicon- but to be fair it's not as if you need that much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Fairgrieve Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Also the clunk should be a petrol compatible type. Big and covered in felt. Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Whiskey Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 I'm too new to Petrol models, but do know about using tygon tubing trouble is there seems to be quite a few size and is in imperial measurements, I need to get some 6mm (outside diameter) but guess the lhs will have equivilant. Also on the felt clunk side, you have to leave fuel in the tank, else it will dry out I'm told so I have a solid heavy metal clunk type to reduce petrol fumes when not is use ans of course the risk of fire and spillages when model is stored standing up on it's nose cone ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Hi DH . I dont use the the felt type clunk any more as you say they often go hard and solid if they dry out . I have started to use the sintered metal type . Works the same as felt and will suck up the last few drops .They are also smaller and will fit in a normal tank provided the proper bung has been used . Be careful what type of "TYGON " fuel tubing you buy. There are some brands out there that are sold as tygon but go hard very quickly when used inside the tank for the clunk . Proper tygon has its name stamped on its length . Eventhe proper stuff goes hard after a couple of years so be prepared to service the tank and replace the tubing. I have also started using 500ml plastic glow fuel bottles for tanks .They are perfect for the smaller petrol engines up to say 30cc and give plenty of duration. The fittings can be bought from Falcon aviation . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan Bowker Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 Thanks for all of the responses, can anyone recommend a tank suitable for an 80" MXS-R running a Mintor 38cc ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Fairgrieve Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 I always use Du-Bro tanks, as the larger ones come with a bung for petrol aswell as glow fuel. Tank size. Well petrol is far more economical so 500ml should see you fine. Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveflys Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 It's important to use a petrol bung. My Global RC Sbach came with a plumbed fuel tank, yet after just a few months I discovered that the fuel was leaking from a very loose bung. I removed the tank and re-tightened the bung, a couple of months later it was loose again, this time it wouldn't tighten. On removal I found that the bung had actually shrunk slighlty and had gone rock hard. Obviously it was a glow bung and the petrol had ruined it. As far as clunks go I've found that the sintered metal or ceramic ones are best, the felt ones can start to disintegrate and the fibres end up in the carb, not good news Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codename-John Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Does anyone know where i can get a bung to fit in the seagull supplied tanks, or if a dubro one will fit ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuey Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 A guy at my club says it is worth using small cable ties or wire to fix the tubing to any connections. I'm sure i have also seen small tubing clips in the shops before for the purpose. Having seen the tubing yesterday, it is not as pliable as silicon (to my eyes) and does not seem to mould itself so well around the barbs. I was told this can lead to air leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayTee Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 Hello all, I'm an old stager returning to the "fold" as it were after about 40+ years absence, and I havre to say that a lot has changed ( not that I've been totally un-aware) during that time has there been produced a really good engine "De-gunger" that anyone may care to recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Allen Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 In Septembers mag there is a reference to Excelon GO-1480 fuel tubing. Do anybody know who sells this stuff in the UK? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan Bowker Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 I can't find anyone in the UK when searching online. If I wanted to buy some it seems eBay is my only choice. Search on eBay for 'Excelon' and select 'Worldwide' in the search options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 and check out postage costs from the one listed US site! £4.38 a yard plus £9.47 postage. I guess if you were to buy 10 or 20 yards it comes to just over a fiver a yard, anyone care to bulk buy? I could justify buying 3 or 4 yards for stock but it's working out around £7 a yard that way. 4 yards could last me years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reno Racer Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 The other thing to remember is that you need to maintain tank access in your model. Even Tygon recommends changing the fuel tube every six months. Despite the brand used, they all go hard at some point, cheaper ones quicker than others. I would also recommend a felt people clunk to stop fuel foaming allowing air into the fuel feed to the carb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Allen Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 The Excelon GO-1480 stuff softens with exposure to petrol, and won't slip off your brass tubing. Seems like this stuff is fantastic, and will last years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Does everyone use barbs on fuel lines? I have only just come across this, and that Tygon needs replacing periodically? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 I run some solder around the pipes to give a ridge then a spring clip thingie or a tie wrap, just check the tubing now and then, it's pretty tough stuff and lasts well. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 That's a relief, thanks John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Agree with, John. Rich, I have used barbs on all my petrol fuel installations (except when using Roto Flow tanks). They are not difficult to solder to the metal tube and give a secure connection when the original metal tube is on the small side. I also clip the fuel line as well. As John says Tygon tube is very durable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Allen Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Only thing is tygon hardens with exposure to petrol. I've switched to Excelon GO-1480, actually gets softer with exposure to fuel, supposedly does not slip off metal tube as easily as tygon (mainly because it does not harden), if more pliable, etc.... As suggested in RCM&E. Got mine here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Hi Guys, I read somewhere that the LMA/BMFA are now looking to petrol/large models, having a 15 minute duration tank. A boffin somewhere could average the size of tank, relevant to model weight and motor cc size. The LMA are well experienced in these matters, and I think the logic is to reduce flying time in the event of an "in air " malfunction or a fly away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Allen Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 I'd say my 30cc models would only do 15mins with a 350ml tank (assuming its not idling), but my 20cc Yak54 with a 500ml tank would easily do 30mins, if not more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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