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Laser Appreciation Society


Frank Skilbeck
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Hi Tom, the latest instructions suggest that you can use nitro, so I guess it depends on the age of the motor/instructions. My Laser 75 is pretty old now but shows no problems with the fuel. The latest instructions are on the Laser website. The fuel I use is also based on synthetic oil content, so the resistance to corrosion is also improved. Cheers, John.

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I had a laser 70 in an AcroWot for a year or two, it ran fine on 10% nitro.

Actually, it was more than fine; more performance than an OS 70 FS on the same fuel, didn't usually bother with the starter after the first flight of the day, sounded great and as far as I can recall it never dead-sticked. The only precaution I took was to use after-run oil if it had gone more than about a week without a run.

Edited By Andy Blackburn on 22/10/2012 13:51:17

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

I have just bought some older Laser engines and am in the process of cleaning and freeing up. I think I have a 90, a 75 and 2 60's but as there are no markings how do you confirm?

The Laser engine links above no longer work so I have sent them an email asking for info. I have found the text instructions on needle setting etc but if you are new to these engines, which I am, it seems impossible to find out any mechanical information, performance figures or history. This all seems to have been "wiped" from the web.

Am I missing the point, can somebody guide me to source of general info? Is there somebody who supplies spares for older models - just seals hopefully

Thanks

Martin

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From what I've read the 155 is a development of the 150, and is an engine to suit a variety of styles of model using 16-18" size props thanks to the wide torque band. Not being able to access historic data is a drawback, hopefully an oversight, and an email would be fruitful and maybe if they get enough requests then maybe they will restore it!

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Ive managed to acquire a Laser 50 fitted in a Precedent T180.The combination is perfect.It passed the noise test at 78db but some members complained of its bark.It has a 1" silencer on it.I found a silencer I could fit straight on with silicone tube jubilee clips andcable ties.I flew it for the first time yesterday and it is so quiet with no loss of power..It was so quiet that when it did start I didnt realise it was running until I removed the starter.

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My struggle goes on to join this exclusive Laser club! I've come to terms with there being almost no information available and it is even difficult to confirm size/model. Laser Engines have confirmed that they want nothing to do with the old engines but did give me a couple of tips. But I am now wandering if the older ones are worth struggling with?

I've sort of freed them all up - as best as can be done without dismantling, and some have "tight" spots, some are very free and compression appears to be zero. I thought I would try and run up one of the free ones but then found that I cannot get any of my existing remote plug leads to fit in the casting and avoid fouling the prop. Can anybody help with:

  • Is there a preferred plug?
  • Is there a remote plug lead that fits down in the recess of the forward facing plug engine?
  • Is there a "cranked" glow starter available or is it mandatory to use remote lead?
  • What should the compression be like on these engines?? Silly question I suppose but any advice would be appreciated

I have asked Just Engines for their advice too.

I'm just hoping that this post hits one of the Laser supporters out there who can answer my (hopefully) simple queries.

Thanks very much in anticipation

Martin

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Well I'm starting to see the attraction! Got the 75 going and performs really well slow and fast, sounds good and no obvious leaks or issues. With a bit of care, the remote glow connector is fine - just needed a bit of force to get it on.

Neither of the 60's (or 61 or 62 whatever they are) has any compression so I bit the bullet and took one to bits. All my practice stripping and rebuilding Morris Minor engines came flooding back. Bottom end seems fine - plenty of compression at the block. Valves all freed up and decoked showing no obvious wear and seem air tight (hold petrol without leaking away). Back end timing gears cleaned up and checked Ok. Reassembled and now ready to set valve clearances.

I'm hoping all should be Ok when I've done that but may be missing something. Now need to find out how to set valve clearances from scratch.

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