Colin Bernard Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 Anyone have any tips on how to stop the tops on cyano bottles getting glued solid? I like to use decent CA from the likes of Deluxe, 5star etc, but I end up having to bin bottles of it because in time the cap gets glued onto the bottle and I can't open it. i have now resorted to using the Poundland stuff just so I don't have the problem, but then of course I don't have the choice of thick, thin etc. i have tried wiping the spout with solvent after every use, but it doesn't seem to work long term - so does anyone else have this problem or a solution? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 5star sells replacement spout and cap sets. I normally buy three or four sets when I buy glue from him. I would be careful with the pound shop stuff, as I'm fairly confident that it made me ill. In this thread, the guy behind 5star says that the pound shop stuff can contain illegal solvents. Now to be fair they are a competitor but my experience is that what he sells doesn't affect me anything like as much. I had a long chat with him at the Nats, as I have had fairly severe reactions to some cyano glues, and he told me that he would be surprised if his product affected me in the same way. I do have a slight reaction to it, and have to be careful, but nowhere near the kind of issues that were arising with the Cheap products and some other more expensives brands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 And the other fairly obvious thing... Dont ram the cap on as hard as you can. Leave the tiniest gap between the shank of the cap and the bottle top. The glue will be sealed, but it will be much easier to get the cap off! Edited By GrahamC on 22/12/2012 22:51:23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Bernard Posted December 22, 2012 Author Share Posted December 22, 2012 Yes, I always get a few spare spouts too, but what I find is that the cap that screws over the spout sticks to the thread on the bottle, and then after a bit the top that goes over the spout sticks to the cap, so I can't get at the glue at all. I have tried leaving the top loosely fastened but that didn't seem to work for me. and I agree on the Poundland stuff. I buy the cards with a number of small bottles and sometimes they seem ok and other batches seem to have trouble doing the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 Cyano doesn't really stick properly to the bottles it come in so it's usually possible to unclog the spouts but, if not, then keeping a few spare spouts works. I keep my fresh cyano in the fridge. It keeps better and doesn't thicken so quickly. The 5 Star people are always ready to chat if they're not busy. My wife likes to buy their special cyano and etching fluid for various gluing jobs around the house. That's why she doen't mind me keeping mine in the fridge alongside hers Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 Simples- Just make sure no air(containing moisture ) ever gets into the bottle other than what is in there from the factory .In other words ,unscrew the top with the bottle inverted and replace the top after use inverted .Never upright it 'til after use for replacing on your shelf & when you have ,give it several firm taps in the upright position to stop liquid remaining near the top!! Myron --inverted dept Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brfc7 Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 I throw the screw lid away as soon as I open a bottle of cyano now and just use a drawing pin with a plastic body pushed in to the opening hole and have never had a problem (obviously as long as the pin is a tight fit in hole) this was after many bottle lids sticking and having to cut through both the lid and spout to get 1 last use from. baz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bouncebounce crunch Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 after each use i tap the container on the benchtop and wipe the top with a nylon rag. I also have in the past used pliers to remove the congealed stuff from around the nozzle so the cap fits back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 I bought some glue years ago that had written on the container -" sticks anything to anything !" Never managed to get the top off ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Down Under Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 I submerge all my old CA bottles in a jar of acetone for a day or two. It dissolves all the CA and frees up the tip. I let the tips dry out, then put them a side as replacements. As soon as the tip on my existing bottle starts to get a bit encrusted with dry CA, I replace the tip with one of the old ones, and put the the existing one into the jar of acetone. Give it a go. It works for me, at any rate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bouncebounce crunch Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 good one there Myron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i12fly Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 I use a piece of capilliary tube from the LMS fitted into the end of nozzle, it gives good control for application. After use I wipe its nose on a piece of tissue with a little squeeze so that no glue remains in the tube, then I leave it open to atmosphere. It lasts for several months that way. I use Rocket or Zap, don't trust the Poundland stuff -some test pieces I did a couple of years ago were very poor. Only issues are: 1. Don't drill out the hole too big for the capilliary tube otherwise it comes out round the outside the bottle, runs down and sticks you fingers to the bottle. You don't need to ask me how I know, it took half an hour to cut my fingers free as I didn't have any de-bonder at that time 2. Stand the uncapped bottle in a container so it can't fall over. Again you don't need to ask me how I know Unfortunately my LMS has closed so I'm going to have to find a new source of tube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Hickson Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Posted by Myron Beaumont on 22/12/2012 23:29:50: I bought some glue years ago that had written on the container -" sticks anything to anything !" Never managed to get the top off ! That's a bit like the acid I invented that would dissolve anything. I didn't have anything to store it in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 a) build quicker so it doesn't have time to set b) build more so there's less left in the bottle c) use aliphatic or PVA, then there's no problem Seriously, since using Wickes thick superglue (labelled as Rapid Mitre Bond) I've not had this problem and it seems less toxic than other cheap brands. If I want thin cyno (for impregnating balsa to stiffen it) I use the cheap bottles from Poundland - not the tubes though as they really are carp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 I used to find that my thin Zap would not clog the capillary tube at all and would be great for months at a time. Now I am finding the tube is clogging all the time. I have also had two large bottles of thin zap go completely thick. Never used to happen do you think the chemistry has changed? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Bernard Posted December 23, 2012 Author Share Posted December 23, 2012 One of the few pluses with the Poundland cyano is that if you get the card with a number of small bottles you get quite a few plastic capillaries. They are nice and long and if they clog you just snip off the end - last ages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Posted by Danny Fenton on 23/12/2012 10:52:25: I used to find that my thin Zap would not clog the capillary tube at all and would be great for months at a time. Now I am finding the tube is clogging all the time. I have also had two large bottles of thin zap go completely thick. Never used to happen do you think the chemistry has changed? Cheers Danny The answer is to store it in the fridge. The cold extends the life and helps to stop it from going thick. Don't know about the chemistry - perhap your workshop is warmer? Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Thanks Geoff, I am lucky that my workshop is a spare room in the house so a constant temperature. I think the problem is probably lack of use But I did notice the newer bottles of glue (same brand, Zap) suffer more than the previous ones. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingman Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Ah Danny! Build faster so the glue doesn't get time to go off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 I posted the same issue many years ago, one of the replies suggested that smearing the nozzle with Vaseline, as he did. He claimed he never had a problem with sticking caps or blocked nozzles. I followed his suggestion, and it really does work. I now use a generous smear, as it works even better. I have had some cyno run over the nozzle and solidly. Surprisingly, to me, it comes free, by gripping with a tissue and twisting. Who ever made the suggestion, is now one of my heroes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 OO that sounds a good idea, I will try that, not going to do much with the capillary tubes but sounds a good idea otherwise Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Bernard Posted December 23, 2012 Author Share Posted December 23, 2012 That sounds one to try. Thanks Erfolg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarLoc FiveStar Adhesives Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 The best way to keep a nozzle clear and cap not stuck on is to not clean the nozzles while the glue is wet........only clean when the glue has gone past the wet jelly like partialy polymerised state Wait for the glue to go hard on the nozzle and it will crack off the plastic as the bottle nozzles are very hard to bond , they are very low density polyethylene that has been treated to give a flourocarbon coating that works like teflon, Rubbing the nozzle scratches the surface and if using something like a tissue it rubs cotton dust ( a great catylist for cyano ) into the surface scratches giving the glue something to stick to When you open a bottle do it with a sharp knife, never use anything that gives a rough cut, never poke anything into the nozzle such as a nail, pin, drill etc, reasons are the inside surface coating can be damaged , and the plastic itself can be roughened up to give a good place for a mechanical bond , drilling bits from nozzles into the bottle will cause the bottle to start to set , leaving a pin or nail in the bottle causes it to go off due to contamination of the glue with metal ions Vaseline or silicone oil on the bottom of the nozzle works but be sure your not going to get it on your fingers as it may be transfered to the item to be bonded Whatever you do dont do what we have seen an demostrator at exhibitions saying to do, putting a bit of plastic bag in between the 2 parts of the cap , un surface treated polythene becomes brittle in contact with LIQUID cyano after a week or so and shatters leaving loads of bits stuck everywere to deal with when you remove the lid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Some good tips above......... Refrigeration helps considerably - I have usable bottles that have been in the fridge for a year or two. For thin cyano, I use these Ex-Long CA Tips from HK -great for topping up an order. I remove the screwcap and fit one of these over the nozzle. When I've finished a session, I just put it back in the fridge as it is. The glue sets only at the very tip. When I come to use it the next time, I cut about 2mm off the tip, clearing the set glue, and carry on using it, continuing until the capillary tube is exhausted. The current bottle of ZAP has been going since last year........ Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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