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Attaching wood to a wire u/c - this method on the DB Sport site seems worth trying.

It is surprising that nobody offers a wire bending service for piano wire undercarriages. Wouldn't it be nice to be able to buy a set of u/c legs for all the free plan designs? It's not too difficult to bend piano wire if you have a bender but it's just one of those jobs that is more of a knack and it's easy to get the first one wrong so people avoid doing it. . A sparetime business opportunity for some enterprising person perhaps?

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KC, a couple of months ago, I didn't like the look of the spindly looking thin wire undercarriage on a plane I was building, so I encased it in wood. I left the joints etc uncovered, as any heavy landing would probably shatter the wood when the wire flexed.

undercarriage.jpg

I find bending wire for an undercarriage is quite easy using a large machine vice, but I am having to make do with a small vice that clamps to my bench..Measure twice, bend once laugh

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I wonder if Denis has actually strengthened the u/c so much so that it wont absorb the landing shocks by bending! If the trailing parts were flimsy wire then that might absorb a heavy landing better? It's necessary to have something give and if it's not the u/c then its the fuselage.

Frankly the torsion type of u/c as on Peter Millers designs in recent years cannot be beaten - it just bends back if necessary and can then be bent straight as Peter described yesterday. A somewhat different design of torsion u/c is the vintage one piece type which lays flat along the underside of the fuselage and can often be retro fitted to existing or ARTF planes.

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Nice one peter, and I think I will do that on the Jezebel.

Kc, the faired undercarriage that is in the picture, is attached to an SE5A that I bought that was part built.

When I saw the twist in the fuselage, and all the damp and warped wood in the box, I soon realized the real reason the guy was selling it, and why he offered to meet me. (we live and learn!)

I decided from the start, that it was just going to be used as a static display model.

I do have a Puppeteer that is just about ready to fly (as seen in this pic), and I was considering fairing in the undercarriage wires as well, but after your wise words of wisdom, I will have a go using Peters method to see how it looks.

dscn0675.jpg

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Peter mentioned soldering the tabs top & bottom......I think that's necessary to stop the fairing from turning and increasing drag.

Somebody recently posted a picture of a similar WW1 u/c but with the axle part rubber banded onto the main u/c while the axle was still free to rotate yet coupled both wheels together to help ground handling.  It was PatMc's info & photos here   Worth looking into though as it was a good idea of  just simple soldering and bits of tubing etc.

Sorry, we are veering way off topic though.......

Edited By kc on 06/03/2015 16:28:10

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Actually I have often looked at the Twin Mustang. The thing that put me off was that when one engine stops there will be so much drag from the fuselage on that side that it would be almost impossible to control.The same would apply to the Twin Spitfire.

Anyway, I have done two twins in just over a year, it will be some time before I get the urge to build another one!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well, I flown the Jezebel. Flew spot on, only a click of down and one of right. Had two flights of it, both on full chat and chucking it around. On landing, I thought it would be tricky, but cruised on down and did a three pointer every time. The stall, is hardly noticiable and landings are simple as well.

Taxis well, the steerable tail-wheel really making it so simple. Only problem the 25FX is a little underpowered, had it almost at full chat most of the flight - probably do with a 32SX, which I do have a few spare of them on the shelf.

p.s. The individual aileron servos are a good thing, ailerons fell locked in and although not sharp, I did have dual rates and expo set, but didn't use them - so had full throw and keep it that from now on. Does good control-line turns almost as good as the UMX Gee Bee, the rudder and opposite aileron causing a flat turn.

Edited By Paul Marsh on 05/04/2015 19:45:37

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  • 2 months later...

Hi All

Just wanted to share my build with you guys for the Jezebel 60". I have never built from a plan before, or built a plane from scratch at all ever, and wanted to give this a go. I fly ARTF's mostly so this was going to be a learning curve. Decided to see if my club (NSMAC in Auckland NZ) wanted to do a winter build and initially lots of enthusiasm but ended up with just 2 of us. Anyway we decided to up scale things a bit to suit a 46 size motor and consulted some of our veteran builders. In fact I ended up installing the Evo 10cc as had a new one on the bench waiting for a plane and the other Jezebel has been given an ASP 51. Came up with 60" span and scaled the plans to suit.

Here's our end results and its been funny seeing the differences that have emerged both from us being complete build novices and just general preference on finishes.

We went for removable cowls and had the motors mounted inverted. I originally stayed true to the plans and had a Pits muffler but changed last minute to inverted. I'm happy with the results and will let you know how this all eventually pans out.

jezebel 1 - finish 2.jpgjezebel 1 - finish 1.jpgjezebel 2 - build update 1.jpgjezebel 2 - build update 2.jpgjezebel 1 - build update 2.jpg

jezebel 1 & 2 - build update.jpg

wing update 1.jpg

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