Peter Miller Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 I recently bought a rare book, Goodyear and Formula One Air rRacers, Vol 1. By Robert S Hirsch. it has about 80 plus 3 views with photos. I had never heard of most of these aircraft. Some can best be described as "homely" while others are beautiful. I picked on Jezebel for a start, well, I like elliptical wings. To be honest The aircraft in this form was first called "Flying Dutchman" and the later verssion with straight taper wings was Jezebel but I prefer that name. The model is not true scale as I have thinned the fuselage and increased the Wing area. Because it is not true scale I will not scream ifg other poepl do not use the scale colour scheme. And one other thing. This aircraft was raced in 1948. It does not look like a Phantom or Phantom Mite although those KK kits may look a bit like Jezebel. The fuselage is my normal design, just the shape changes in places. Wings can be built on a 48" X 12" buildong board. they have no dihedral so can be built as one piece. The 3 view shows that the front view taper is equal but I built them flat as this makes incorporating the 2 degrees washout much easier. Now I am going to do sosme more of the radio installation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanN Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 A very pretty aircraft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Levanter Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Peter I hope someone publishes this one but maybe not too soon. I have twenty six other designs of yours waiting to be built including some control liners! If you did though, this would jump the queue. Is she your favourite 25-32 size? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 9, 2014 Author Share Posted July 9, 2014 Graham Ashby has already laid claim to it. NOw a bit more building. The underside of the ribs are slightly curved and there is no sheet at the trailing edge so Cap strips are fitted in the ailerons and along the aileron spars and eladign edeg but the ribs are supported with scrap 1/16" along the trailing edge inboard of the ailerons. Back to the fuselage. Here we can see the sheet infil where the silencer will be and the undercarriage mounting. Underside view of the above shot. Tail end showin taiplane plateform. I now have started using 1/32 ply doublers in this area to prevent the fuselage sides splitting in a tumble. Trailing edges now added. Close up of the aileron assembly. Gussets added to reinforce rib to trailing edge joints. This is strnger and neater than inserting ribs into the T.E. Front view of wing showing spar webs and how the lower sheet is held in contact with sheet leading edge. i.e. Lots of small ieces of scrap T.E. stock used as wedges. And that is enough for tonight Edited By Peter Miller on 09/07/2014 19:58:44 Edited By Peter Miller on 09/07/2014 19:59:23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 I like that Peter Reminds me of Laser 200 side on, look forward to the plan. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 10, 2014 Author Share Posted July 10, 2014 Now the next stages. Glue the turtle deck sides to the sides and leacve to dry. Apply heat and roll the sheet to the formers, trim down the centre line and glue in place. Just for a change the top read deck is strinered with 1/8" sq, spruce. MY usual method of building the cowl is to glue the nose ring to the spinner and mount the engine. The cowl is built up between the nose ring and F-1. The engine is removed and the cowl is carved to shape. The apple cheeks are quite large and the rear portion is built from 1/8" sheet with a 1/4" sheet top. ACtualy I used 5/15" as I have a scrap remaining. The front on the left side is pieces of scrpa 1/2" sheet. Note that the undercarriage can't be removed easily as it is under the 1/2" sheet. Godd job my undercarriages are very firm;ly mounted. The underside at the rear has a couple of stringers as shown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 11, 2014 Author Share Posted July 11, 2014 Now on to the rest of the wing. Fit the washout wedges as seen below and then glue the top sheet down to the spars, ribs and leading edge. The reason that I fet the spar webs to the front of the spar is so I can use clamaps to hold the sheet down to the spar. Red arros show location of wedges. the front of the wedge is just under the spar. Here is the wing fully sheeted. This shows the bellcrank out at the aileron. Note the reinforcement of the slot. The pushrods to the ailerons can be inserted after covering. The underside of the slot. Yes, it can be much neater butneeds to allow for some sideways movemengt if the pushrod. Tail surfaces are just 1/4" sheet. Area is about 16% of wing area, this is perfectly safe with a CG at 25% chord. Take one bliock of pine, one power plane, One disc sander. one Surform and lots of sand paper and sweat and you too can make a pattern for moulding a canopy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 11, 2014 Author Share Posted July 11, 2014 The model has now had all the radio etc installed and has been covered.( Not necessarily in that order) It has an OS 25 FX fitted. The weight is 3 lbs 12 oz. which gives a wing loading of just under 20 oz. per .sq ft (430 sq. in. of area.) The CG came out a fraction forward of the designed point which is always better than benind. You need less lead that way! As soon as the lettering arrives and the rain stops I will get some preliminary pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Vinten 1 Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 nice one peter that plane makes me a happy chap cant wait to see the pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 Nice, quick build Peter! tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 13, 2014 Author Share Posted July 13, 2014 It took about three weeks with a few days when nothing was done. Got another to do but I need a break!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lindsay Todd Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 Lovely looking aircraft Peter, not come across that one before either but looks like it should be a classy performer. Linds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 14, 2014 Author Share Posted July 14, 2014 Lindsay I got hold of Robert Hirsch's book, Goodyear and Formula One Air Racing, 1947-1967, Volume one. About 80 three views with photos of racers that you have never heard of. I think you can still buy a copy from the USA via Amazon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Pictures of the completed model Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 now that looks very very nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Yep certainly do's, colour scheme is spot on John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 Very nice - I would imagine that would make a cracking 1/4 scale model. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 1/4 scale would be 60" span. Got the test flying in last night. She isss just great and that is not my opinion. Does all the aerobatics. Slowing right down and getting brutal and she will drop a wing but not fast. Spin recovery is instant on letting gort of the sticks. 4 point rolls are nice. Inverted hardly needs any down elevator. Does not try to screw out of loops. The glide is amazing. The engine cut well out over a ploughed field and no one thought that she would get back but she did and that was coming in towards an up slope. Note that I have a big non-scale white square underneath for orientation. Otherwise the underside is identical to the top. Oh yes. I didn't mention that she is fast! Power is an OS 25 FX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Gorham_ Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 Excellent stuff Peter! I've enjoyed watching the build and the results are just gorgeous. I'll keep an eye out for the plan then.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Banner Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 That looks very nice indeed. The wing alone is a thing of beauty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Vinten 1 Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 Hi All I have just received the plans and a canopy from peter for his new racer Jezebel !!! I going to be converting this little racer to electric flight. I will be changing a few things only minor to take the electric motor , lipo and esc. There will be a hatch from the back of the canopy to the back of the cowl to access the lipo ,and the cowl will be fully removable as well for motor and esc access Peter has the ailerons working on 1 servo i will be using 2 one on each wing, this is so i have more space for the lipo . to help correct c of g if i need to . Peters ic model has an auw of 3Ib 11 oz the electric should work out the same . My first thought is a 3s lipo and about 450 watts power and about 40 / 50 amps on 10.6 prop maybe 10 .8 i will put up the specs later when i have finalised the parts Anybody have any thoughts on the setup please put them here We are hoping this conversion will run along side Peters ic in a future addition of RCM@E Edited By Gary Vinten 1 on 25/07/2014 21:59:39 Edited By Gary Vinten 1 on 25/07/2014 22:00:33 Edited By Gary Vinten 1 on 25/07/2014 22:11:49 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 I am getting the impression that the model is about 48" span? If so, the size is pretty good for current electrics. I have converted the PM designed Cassut to electric, pretty much along the same lines as you are undertaking, for the same reasoning, At 36" span, Cassuts is a little small, getting small very quickly, Ground handling is also not as good as a bigger model. Like many I am not sure i will be building the model, just because there are so many on the list and also underway, which is a pity, as it is a very attractive model. None the less I will watch your build with interest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Jones Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 Very nice Peter , And just the right size , well for me anyway and i have a few .25 engines even a .32 that would go nice in there . I spotted you was building the wing on a printed out plan , do you do CAD as well , and do you also have a plotter to print them out . If so you lucky sod , i would love to be able to print out my plans at will . cheers Steve , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 26, 2014 Author Share Posted July 26, 2014 Erfolg. Span is 48, Area is 430 sq. in. Weight is 3 lbs 10 ounces. # STeve. .32 would be over kill. She goes fast in the .25. My standard system. I draw the plan in pencil ans then trace it in ink on AO size paper. Then I take the tracing to my local Office Supplies shop and they run off copies at very reasonable prices. On of my two local shops can also do enlargements which can be handy. I can't use CAD. I have to see the drawing full size as I work. I do use Compufoil to design the wings as that save lots of boring work and can plot all the wing ribs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 Peter, I am not convinced that CAD is much of an advantage even for a semi-commercial set up like yourself. To gain any real benefit there are two requirements to make any sense. Firstly is that scan in bit mapped images can be easily converted into vector graphics. As this saves a lot of time defining the out line. The second is that you are able to extract a set of files for laser cutting etc. My own experiences as a one of designer/builder, is that I find I do not need a lot of detail and I can sketch out, rub out,enough to allow me to build quickly. I do not see the drawing part, being that much fun. I guess having spent a good part of my life involved with this sort of thing. The model looks good, although i still look foreard to a Gee Bee R2, perhaps a QED and particularly a second go at the Bellanca tri motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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