Jump to content

Jezebel


Recommended Posts

I recently bought a rare book, Goodyear and Formula One Air rRacers, Vol 1. By Robert S Hirsch. it has about 80 plus 3 views with photos. I had never heard of most of these aircraft. Some can best be described as "homely" while others are beautiful.

I picked on Jezebel for a start, well, I like elliptical wings.

To be honest The aircraft in this form was first called "Flying Dutchman" and the later verssion with straight taper wings was Jezebel but I prefer that name.

20140609_1.jpg

The model is not true scale as I have thinned the fuselage and increased the Wing area. Because it is not true scale I will not scream ifg other poepl do not use the scale colour scheme.

And one other thing. This aircraft was raced in 1948. It does not look like a Phantom or Phantom Mite although those KK kits may look a bit like Jezebel.

jez_1.jpg

The fuselage is my normal design, just the shape changes in places.

jez_2.jpg

Wings can be built on a 48" X 12" buildong board. they have no dihedral so can be built as one piece.

The 3 view shows that the front view taper is equal but I built them flat as this makes incorporating the 2 degrees washout much easier.

Now I am going to do sosme more of the radio installation.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Advert


Graham Ashby has already laid claim to it.

NOw a bit more building.

jez_4.jpg

The underside of the ribs are slightly curved and there is no sheet at the trailing edge so Cap strips are fitted in the ailerons and along the aileron spars and eladign edeg but the ribs are supported with scrap 1/16" along the trailing edge inboard of the ailerons.

 

jez_6.jpg

Back to the fuselage. Here we can see the sheet infil where the silencer will be and the undercarriage mounting.

jez_8.jpg

Underside view of the above shot.

jez_9.jpg

Tail end showin taiplane plateform. I now have started using 1/32 ply doublers in this area to prevent the fuselage sides splitting in a tumble.

jez_10.jpg

Trailing edges now added.

jez_12.jpg

Close up of the aileron assembly.

jez_13.jpg

Gussets added to reinforce rib to trailing edge joints. This is strnger and neater than inserting ribs into the T.E.

jez_14.jpg

Front view of wing showing spar webs and how the lower sheet is held in contact with sheet leading edge. i.e. Lots of small ieces of scrap T.E. stock used as wedges.

And that is enough for tonight

 

 

Edited By Peter Miller on 09/07/2014 19:58:44

Edited By Peter Miller on 09/07/2014 19:59:23

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now the next stages.

jez_18.jpg

Glue the turtle deck sides to the sides and leacve to dry.

jez_20.jpg

Apply heat and roll the sheet to the formers, trim down the centre line and glue in place.

jez_26.jpg

Just for a change the top read deck is strinered with 1/8" sq, spruce.

jez_24.jpg

jez_25.jpg

MY usual method of building the cowl is to glue the nose ring to the spinner and mount the engine. The cowl is built up between the nose ring and F-1. The engine is removed and the cowl is carved to shape.

jez_32.jpg

The apple cheeks are quite large and the rear portion is built from 1/8" sheet with a 1/4" sheet top. ACtualy I used 5/15" as I have a scrap remaining.

jez_34.jpg

The front on the left side is pieces of scrpa 1/2" sheet.

Note that the undercarriage can't be removed easily as it is under the 1/2" sheet. Godd job my undercarriages are very firm;ly mounted.

jez_36.jpg

The underside at the rear has a couple of stringers as shown.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now on to the rest of the wing.

jez_21.jpg

Fit the washout wedges as seen below and then glue the top sheet down to the spars, ribs and leading edge.

The reason that I fet the spar webs to the front of the spar is so I can use clamaps to hold the sheet down to the spar.

jez_23.jpg

Red arros show location of wedges. the front of the wedge is just under the spar.

jez_28.jpg

Here is the wing fully sheeted.

jez_29.jpg

This shows the bellcrank out at the aileron. Note the reinforcement of the slot. The pushrods to the ailerons can be inserted after covering.

jez_30.jpg

The underside of the slot. Yes, it can be much neater butneeds to allow for some sideways movemengt if the pushrod.

jez_31.jpg

Tail surfaces are just 1/4" sheet. Area is about 16% of wing area, this is perfectly safe with a CG at 25% chord.

jez_37.jpg

Take one bliock of pine, one power plane, One disc sander. one Surform and lots of sand paper and sweat and you too can make a pattern for moulding a canopy.

jez_38.jpg

jez_39.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The model has now had all the radio etc installed and has been covered.( Not necessarily in that order)

It has an OS 25 FX fitted. The weight is 3 lbs 12 oz. which gives a wing loading of just under 20 oz. per .sq ft (430 sq. in. of area.) The CG came out a fraction forward of the designed point which is always better than benind. You need less lead that way!

As soon as the lettering arrives and the rain stops I will get some preliminary pictures.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

jez flt_35.jpg1/4 scale would be 60" span.

Got the test flying in last night. She isss just great and that is not my opinion.

Does all the aerobatics. Slowing right down and getting brutal and she will drop a wing but not fast. Spin recovery is instant on letting gort of the sticks.

4 point rolls are nice. Inverted hardly needs any down elevator. Does not try to screw out of loops.

The glide is amazing. The engine cut well out over a ploughed field and no one thought that she would get back but she did and that was coming in towards an up slope.

jez flt_8.jpg

Note that I have a big non-scale white square underneath for orientation. Otherwise the underside is identical to the top.

Oh yes. I didn't mention that she is fast! Power is an OS 25 FX

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi All

I have just received the plans and a canopy from peter for his new racer Jezebel !!!

I going to be converting this little racer to electric flight. I will be changing a few things only minor to take the electric motor , lipo and esc.

There will be a hatch from the back of the canopy to the back of the cowl to access the lipo ,and the cowl will be fully removable as well for motor and esc access

Peter has the ailerons working on 1 servo i will be using 2 one on each wing, this is so i have more space for the lipo . to help correct c of g if i need to .

Peters ic model has an auw of 3Ib 11 oz the electric should work out the same .

My first thought is a 3s lipo and about 450 watts power and about 40 / 50 amps on 10.6 prop maybe 10 .8 i will put up the specs later when i have finalised the parts smiley

Anybody have any thoughts on the setup please put them hereyes

We are hoping this conversion will run along side Peters ic in a future addition  of RCM@E

Edited By Gary Vinten 1 on 25/07/2014 21:59:39

Edited By Gary Vinten 1 on 25/07/2014 22:00:33

Edited By Gary Vinten 1 on 25/07/2014 22:11:49

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am getting the impression that the model is about 48" span? If so, the size is pretty good for current electrics.

I have converted the PM designed Cassut to electric, pretty much along the same lines as you are undertaking, for the same reasoning,

At 36" span, Cassuts is a little small, getting small very quickly, Ground handling is also not as good as a bigger model.

Like many I am not sure i will be building the model, just because there are so many on the list and also underway, which is a pity, as it is a very attractive model.

None the less I will watch your build with interest.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very nice Peter ,

And just the right size , well for me anyway and i have a few .25 engines even a .32 that would go nice in there .

I spotted you was building the wing on a printed out plan , do you do CAD as well , and do you also have a plotter to print them out .

If so you lucky sod , i would love to be able to print out my plans at will .

cheers Steve ,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Erfolg.

Span is 48, Area is 430 sq. in. Weight is 3 lbs 10 ounces.

#

STeve.

.32 would be over kill. She goes fast in the .25.

My standard system. I draw the plan in pencil ans then trace it in ink on AO size paper.

Then I take the tracing to my local Office Supplies shop and they run off copies at very reasonable prices.

On of my two local shops can also do enlargements which can be handy.

I can't use CAD. I have to see the drawing full size as I work. I do use Compufoil to design the wings as that save lots of boring work and can plot all the wing ribs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Peter, I am not convinced that CAD is much of an advantage even for a semi-commercial set up like yourself. To gain any real benefit there are two requirements to make any sense. Firstly is that scan in bit mapped images can be easily converted into vector graphics. As this saves a lot of time defining the out line. The second is that you are able to extract a set of files for laser cutting etc.

My own experiences as a one of designer/builder, is that I find I do not need a lot of detail and I can sketch out, rub out,enough to allow me to build quickly. I do not see the drawing part, being that much fun. I guess having spent a good part of my life involved with this sort of thing.

The model looks good, although i still look foreard to a Gee Bee R2, perhaps a QED and particularly a second go at the Bellanca tri motor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...