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Hild Marshonet at 1/5 scale (58


Tim Hooper
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Thank you Tony!

Here's an interplane strut all glued up and waiting for final finishing later.

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The rear of the pod needs fairing into the boom, so I've made up a support framework from scrap balsa.

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The framework is faced with 1/16 sheet, with its grain vertical to help it cope with the contours of the fairing.

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Up front I've decided to fit a top hatch to the pod. I'm using m usual method of covering the adjoining bulkheads and longerons with Sellotape t prevent the hatch from sticking permanently to the pod.

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The hatch has a 1/16 sheet base with a sub-former at each end.

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With the completed planking rough sanded, I've cut the two hatches free.

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Trial fitting the Turnigy 4250 motor to F1.

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Offsetting the motor to the left, and then packing the two mounting lugs with washers, brings the front end of the shaft back to the centreline, whilst giving a couple of degrees of side thrust.

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Thanks Martyn!

I've Ca'd a washer to the balsa/ply noseplate, and then bolted it on the prop shaft. The cowl's lower sides were fitted in between, followed by the cowl's lower sheeting. I used bits of scrap block for this.

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Two laminations of 1/64 ply bend over the top of the outrunner to form a basis for the dummy engine.

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The mighty 20hp v-twin is, once again, formed from bits of convoluted tubing.

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Martin,

Like myself, it runs on cyano fumes......

Over the last few days I've been skinning the fuselage pod in 1/64 ply. A fiddly job - especially on the curved rear section. I've used small pieces of ply, butted together to minimise the joins.

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The main job this weekend has been producing the undercarriage. It's made from 12swh wire, bent to shape and assembled inverted on a scrap bard. The first job was to wrap the overlap with copper wire and then solder it together.

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The vertical 'slot' is there to allow the axle to rise on it's bungee springing. I've fitted an additional brass strap, not only to reinforce the joint, but also to serve as an anchor point for the cross-bracing (to be fitted later).

I've used a yellow rubber band to trial the suspension. The axle has short lengths of similar material soldered to its top side. This stops the axle rotating and also serve as to keep the axle centralised when the bugees are hooked over their ends.

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The main assembly (inverted). Since this pic was taken I've fitted P-clips to mount it to the underside of the fuselage.

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Thank you Gents - it's nice to be able to produce something out of the ordinary now and then!

Martin, there's no secret to soldering; I use ordinary lead-free multicore solder.

Successful soldering depends on two things - absolute cleanliness and a decent, hefty iron, able to tranfer the heat efficiently without cooling.

So I wipe the wire with meths to remove any grease or oil first, then use a file or rough wet'n'dry paper to roughen the surface. Immediately prior to soldering I give the wire a wipe with an acid flux.

The iron I use is an old 60 watt thing that I picked up at a show. Don't bother with anything less - and certainly not one of those wire-framed heatguns either.

Hope this helps!

tim

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